Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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I noticed lately when I start my car it seems like it takes a bit for the RPMs to stabilize and is down to around 500 rpm and my voltage gauge fluctuates a lot when i first start it. so I give it some gas to keep it going until it’s more warmed up. During these first few minutes my lights are also dimmer until I get it up to around 800+ rpm. Also when I turn on the headlights I get a noise coming from the alternator that used to not be there. Do you think it’s time for a new alternator? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by AZDatsun, -
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I am selling my Z shortly and am working out a last minute bug that suddenly appeared. The left rear turn signal voltage drops to 0 under load. I am getting 12v at the wire, but put a light on it and the voltage drops to 0. The hazards DO work though. As I look at the wiring diagram, is the path: Green from hazard switch into T/S flasher, white from flasher to combo switch, white/black to left rear turn signal? If so, that will help me greatly narrow down the places to check.
Last reply by ktm, -
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I am trying to replace my door jamb switches in the 260z. They are rusted through and I pretty much was able to "poke" them out with a screwdriver. A few issues I need to deal with: -The metal around the self-grounding door jam switches are rusted. I will not be able to get a reliable ground connection here. How have you guys dealt with this in your own Z's? I am thinking I will need to run a ground wire from another part of the car body and solder it to the switch to get a good ground. -The driver's side door jamb switch had 3 connections running to it. I'm not sure what the connections are. You can see the wires in the attached picture. If I were…
Last reply by 7tooZ, -
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My head lights, turn signals front and back, brake lights, and back up lights all work, but the tail lights and the running lights on the fenders and quarter panels are not working. Someone I was talking to about this issue indicated I needed to check to see if the ground wires were in good order. My first question is where the ground wire would be? How do I check electrically? My second question is if the ground wire is good what else could be the problem?
Last reply by jj280z, -
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Can someone confirm the trapezoidal shape of the faceplate for the Hitachi model KM-1520ZC in 1972? Photos can be deceiving but I see a very rectangular KM-1520ZC on eBay described as OEM for DATSUN 240Z 9.71-9.73 Datsun 9.71-9.73 240z OEM Hitachi AM:FM Radio KM-1520ZC | eBay.webarchive
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
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So I recently went through the whole list of contacts to clean on the Atlantic Z page and noticed that after cleaning the fuel injection power fusible link (sanded then doused with Caig Deoxit) the starter sounds way beefier and the car starts up considerably faster. The problem is that after the contact cleaner dries the car's starting speed/stronger starter sound reverts to how it was before. Is there some sort of goop or product I can put on the contacts to permanently keep that great connection? -chase
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Seems like I am missing the wire for the horn pad so my horn is not working... Where should the wire for the horn pad connect? Its a 77 280z
Last reply by mbz, -
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Hi. I was looking for help on ignition issues on my 1970 Datsun 311. I bypassed the Ballast resistor but it didnt help.Thank you
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Alright guys this is going to be a bit lengthy, but I'm hoping by giving as much info as possible the clues will be there and you will have a better idea, maybe I'm looking too hard at one thing. Okay I got this 1978 280z about 2 months ago. The car hasn't touched the road in 12 years and hadn't started in who knows how long. First I got a battery and hooked it up. The brake lights or night time lights were permanently on and the headlight switch would turn on the lights (it looks like someone put in new wiring to all of these things to bypass switches or fuses). The voltmeter also was the only gauge that worked. With the keys in the car there was no signs of li…
Last reply by tleverett, -
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I've been working on getting the electrical side of my '78 280z back to working and have run into a few issues. First off, my low beams do not work and I have confirmed its a grounding issue somewhere between the headlight plug and the switch by grounding it manually which makes them work. This also makes the high and low beams run at the same time which is not good. Second, while I was installing an upgraded wiper motor to replace my broken original one I had the motor working for a few minutes before lengthening the wires for permanent install then it stopped working completely even rewired multiple times. Third, My Blinkers do not work because I don't get power to the …
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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My brake lights aren't working and I was going to replace the hazard light switch and the flasher on my 72 Z. Was wondering if I needed to remove the whole dashboard to replace them or is there another way to do it? Kind of tempted to remove the whole dash just to take a look around and do some cleanup, but I'm afraid that's going to take much longer. Time I could be out driving the car.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
electrical 1972 240z Brake Lights Not Working, Please Help, I'm A Mechanical Beginner
by Mazinger240Z- 3 followers
- 3 replies
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Noticed my brake lights weren't working on my 1972 240z. 1. Replaced the brake light switch, still not working. 2. Turn signals, lights, hazard lights all working and blinking. 3. Used a meter to test both new brake light switch, and wires leading to switch. power seems to be going to switch, and new switch doesn't seem to be faulty. Not really sure where to go from here. I've never really worked on cars before, so my mechanical/electrical expertise is minimal. I just successfully upgraded to an electronic ignition and new coil, and that's the most in depth thing I've ever done working on a car ( I was proud of myself for getting it working, and not h…
Last reply by SteveJ,
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