Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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happy days. I finally found why my brake warning light was on all the time. after fixing and replacing nearly every part of the system, it ends up the coil in the control relay melted, leaving it stuck on. the relay was the one under the passenger seat. good thing it didn't ignite when it melted, though then it would have been the prior owners problem... I've obtained a new relay from autozone, so i'll be designing a replacement circuit to replace the relay. (since this relay is no longer available...) yay
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Had an issue with this 77 dizzy with having the timing maxed out in the advanced settings just to get to stock specs . Come to find out that the vacuum advance arm was not attached to the breaker plate. So the screw was in place but not attached to anything. This put the breaker plate in the wrong position - retarded in regards to the pick-up position. can someone tell me what this other adjustable plate does- see pic. It was adjusted all the way to one side. The horseshoe pick up or whatever it is moves with it, it I can’t find any info in the FSM about it. What does it do?
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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After the 280zx alternator upgrade with Dave's adapter, the ammeter never seemed to move. I didn't (and still don't) know if it got burned out or if the mod just makes it useless so it doesn't move. Before the upgrade the ammeter needle would jump around if a turn signal was on for example, no jumping after the mod which I thought meant the new internally regulated alternator was working better than the old one. A few weeks ago it wouldn't turn over or even click. Dead battery. I figured maybe I'd bumped the overhead light on, it's happened before. It sat while I did some work on the AT. Couple of days ago started it with the jumper battery. I figured I'd see the amm…
Last reply by Stanley, -
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I need to remove the four wire tacho for a conversion from inductive to +12v trigger as i am currently installing a megajolt ignition setup. What is the easiest way to remove the tacho from the dashboard, can i just remove the locking nuts on the back of the tacho from under the dashboard and then pull it out from the front?
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
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1977 280z It lives in the dash between the Tach and Speedo, I can't find anything on the schematic with same colour wires.
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I started a short drive, in one mile I noticed the tachometer was bouncing around, especially on acceleration. At four miles I hear a lot of backfiring on engine braking. I stopped at an intersection, then the engine cut out and couldn't be restarted. I had full pressure, but no spark. It was flatbedded back home and now the fun begins. I'm confused where to start since the ignition has undergone an electronic upgrade using a Mallory coil and distributor. There are two ballast resistors one with three contacts and the one with two contact just below it. One wire from the upper (three contact) resistor connects to the lower resistor. The other end of the lower re…
Last reply by Jeff Berk, -
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First thing, I've done a bunch of reading and searching and at this point I'm hoping someone else has had a similar problem and can narrow the options down. The problem, rear lights are possessed. Headlights work, high and low beams. Front turn signals work, left and right. Rear right turn signals work. Rear left work but are dim and turn off when the lights are turned on. Also all left rear bulbs flash including side marker when turn signal is turned on. Right side flashes fine except the parking light turns off when turn signal is turned on. I've taken apart both the multi switch and the turn signal switch to clean the terminals. I've read maybe the hazard swit…
Last reply by newbzee, -
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With all the years of owning vehicles and doing most of the repairs myself, I have never had an alternator apart. A trip to the local parts store to buy a remanufactured alternator and leaving the old one for the core has always been my solution. On the 78 Z resurrection project that is slowly progressing I believe it is the factory original alternator still with the vehicle. The blue label-INTERNAL REGULATOR-was still on the unit before spraying some degreaser on the alternator. Just thought it would be neat to keep the original unit with the car and was quite surprised to find the brush assy/ voltage regulator part still available as a separate part. The bearings …
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Was driving home late Saturday night on a slight downhill when sparks starting erupting from my hood. The engine immediately cutoff and sparks were flying so far that they were coming out through my hood vents. I turned off the key and coasted to a pullout on the side of the road. What I found is that whoever did the L28ET engine swap 14 years ago on this car slid a rubber insulator over copper connection on the positive battery lead. This had slid off over the year of my ownership and grounded to the inside fender. I covered the lead, drove the car home and put it on the battery charger. Charger showed it was at 60% until morning where it became 100%. Now, I ha…
Last reply by Patcon, -
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Hi, 11/70 Z converting from a mechanical to a electric fuel pump for my stroker with triple carbs. I have a couple questions on the wiring that I was looking to get some help with. I've consulted various different builds, threads and diagrams and am planning on wiring in a Holley Red Electric fuel pump. I have grounded the wire and the positive side will be going to a relay (which I have figured out already). My questions are firstly: Should I want the fuel pump to turn on when the key is in the ON position or the START position (Will it still be on if in the start position)? My second question is: Of the Wires going to the ignition switch, which one of these would be the…
Last reply by w3wilkes, -
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Here's a proposition for ALL 240Z owners. If you send me your combo and T/S switches, I will rebuild them to the best of my abilities. I've done it plenty of times before and know what I'm doing. If you have extra parts you'd like to donate to the cause, feel free to send them in the same box. The more spare switch parts I have the better I can build your switches. Springs depress over time, the ball bearings get flat spots, the teeter plates get tracks in them and warp over time because of heat and stress. I've built over 10 sets (combo and T/S switches) and have not had to deal with ANY failures so far. I can't tell you how much the 10 sets get used but I haven't heard …
Last reply by ashtonb72, -
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Just recently bought a 280z and was trying to get it up and running again but ran into a few problems. I'm getting no spark to the engine. I have replaced the ignition coil as the previous one did not carry resistance. Also the distributor rotor spins and the connections do not seem to be corroded. But still no spark to the engine. When hooking up a spark plug tester I'm getting no light which I am told means a ignition system issue. My last resort is purchasing an ignition control module but, ya know, it's expensive. Would like your guys' take on this. Any help is appreciated. And btw it cranks and everything. Nothing timing related, she's trying her hardest.
Last reply by FairAbrocoma,
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