Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
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Where have others who have done a Painless harness located their fuse boxes? A few locations I'm considering (generally in order of preference): On the bulkhead generally behind the cigarette lighter. On the outer wall of the drivers side. In the location of the old fuse box (I don't have a center console, so am a little concerned about placing this in a way that it won't have to be redone). On the bulkhead behind the glovebox On the outer wall of the passengers side (though, I think this may be too far from the steering column to work). Any recommendations? Any other threads with this (I've searched and couldn't find any). Photo…
Last reply by nkopp, -
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Does anyone know the proper part number for a 7/73 manual 240z dash harness? I do not have the original to reference so I'm running blind. The body harness is 24014-N3300 if that helps. I've seen 24013-N3321 and 3322 get mentioned but unable to verify. Seen an old thread with a link for reference but the link is dead. Any guidance will be much appreciated, thanks
Last reply by CCB, -
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My buddy sent me a pic of the radio he bought on Ebay. It is for his 280z but the back seems to have a 5 pin DIN, an two Molex type connections (3 pin and 6pin) Has anyone seen this before and have suggestions on pin outs? Thanks!
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Fiddling today before I put her away for a few weeks and noticed the high work but not the low beams on both sides. The stalk was in great shape when I last put it together about a year ago but maybe the low grounding in there has an issue? I really don't have time before my out of town trip to tinker, just curious if there's a list of things I should check when I get back? All other lights work great just the lows off for some reason. Could filaments in each bulb go at the same time for some reason?
Last reply by Richie G, -
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I noticed what seems to be a high voltage reading while driving today, but I am not sure if it is really an issue. I just added a voltmeter otherwise I would not have noticed anything! The car is a 1973 240Z with the original stock alternator and the original (points style) voltage regulator. While driving at highway speeds I noticed that the battery voltage measured over 15V. The shop manual calls for 14.30 to 14.80 volts at 2500 RPM and 68 F (67 F here today). But in the specifications for the voltage regulator it gives a regulating voltage range of 14.3 to 15.3 volts at 68 F. When I got back in the driveway I did a quick test at various engine speeds and ele…
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
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I posted this in someone elses thread, but decided to start a new one here. It may be useful for other members having problems with the TIU. These systems are getting old and starting to fail more often than not. A couple of months ago I had problems with water in the fuel system. After cleaning it all out, draining the tank replacing the fuel filter the engine ran normal again. When I took it for a drive I was lucky to limp back home with the engine coughing and backfiring. Went through the EFI bible test and found some poor soldering joints on the aftermarket injector connectors and some minor things. It still would not run right once it warmed up. It was great cold, b…
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
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Hey there everyone, While I finally seemed to have gotten my starting/running issue solved (thanks to the immense contributions to those involved!), my remaining issues I have split into three separate threads, with this one focusing on the blower motor. What I've done so far: *Replaced all fuses and verified connection between the fuses, no fuses are blowing. The switch for the fan speed does not work on *Any* setting. I figured it would be like my old RX-7, where the highest setting just bypasses the resistor entirely and sends straight 12V to the motor, so it would at least work on the highest setting, but alas, it does not. During my past diag…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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So, one of my last electrical issues I am tracking down on my car (78 280Z), is the park lights. They DO work, but they work selectively; I can turn the headlight switch on one turn to activate the parking lights, and the interior/park lights may not activate. However, with some gentle tapping of the headlight stalk when they are in the on position or some moving of the entire switch (rotating the entire turn signal and headlight switch on the steering column) this will also result in bringing the park lights on. Headlights work always with no issues.
Last reply by jfa.series1, -
1978 280Z - Won't restart when hot, all interior gauges, fan motor, backlighting not working 1 2 3 4 17
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Hey there everyone. I'm currently trying to iron out some issues with my car, and if anyone would be kind enough to lend me their advice and insight, I would be very grateful! Huge thanks to @SteveJ for encouraging me to post here! I've got a new to me 1978 280Z (five speed manual) that I am trying to get back on the road. Body wise it seems to be in great shape and overall it seems to be mechanically complete. However, I am having some issues with the interior gauges not functioning. Here is the state of that: *No functionality on any gauge except volt meter - Oil, water, fuel, tach, clock. - None of them are functional. *No functionality of turn signal…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Hey there everyone, My remaining issues I have split into three separate threads, with this one focusing on the turn signals. The past thread got a bit convoluted, but thanks to everyones contributions I was able to solve my main issue (so far), and this thread is focusing on the signals. Originally, the signals didn't work whatsoever. My fuses in the passengers kick panel were not blown, but they were so oxidized, they had built up a ton of resistance so virtually none of my electronics were working, and those that were, were heating up their respective fuse (dome light) or illuminating their respective warning lights VERY dim (Brake light on cluster). …
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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A while back I found that there was an H4 headlight kit for the Toyota Land Cruiser that used Koito H4 housings. This got my attention since Koito supplied many bulbs to Nissan, including sealed beam headlights. The website I found with the best price said they were sold out, so I put myself on the waiting list. Earlier this week I saw a post on Facebook where someone said he bought this kit from Toyota for his Z cars and supplied a part number. Using that part number, I searched dealerships online that said they had the part. One of the dealerships is on the other side of town, so I pulled the trigger and ordered a set. The kit arrived today. It has a nice relay har…
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
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Hi guys, Quick question for you - is there a wiring harness that goes through the a-pillar or through the portion above the door but below the roof (its covered with foam/vinyl)? The reason I ask is periodically I will hear a buzzing, kind of like the sound of high voltage jumping from a wire to a ground coming from the area above the passenger door but below the roof. Is there a wiring harness there that could have a nicked wire? This does not seem to be affected by the volume of the stereo. -chaseincats
Last reply by chaseincats,
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