Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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I am sure this is not new to the group but since I made a video I figured would post a thread (video attached later). I have been having start issues since I got the car nearly 2 years ago. I thought I had check the starting circuits (spark and injector during startup) but since it was intermittent I prob just never caught the issue. I finally broke down and removed the switch for a more comprehensive test of the start circuit. Sure enough I have multiple dead spots on the switch when turned to "start". I did NOT test the new OE switch, prob should have but it was so easy to install I just could not wait. Needless to say it started instantly, no longer do I crank an…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Hi! Took my dash out and put it back in. Everything workes except i can now turn my radio/fan/gauge lights on with my headlight switch. I don't need to have my ignition on to do this. Can't turn radio/fan/ gauge lights on without having the headlights on. Maplight and the light in the roof (for open door) workes as it should. Anyone know what I have connected wrong? Im Not familiar or anywhere close to good at reading wire diagrams so I really hope for an answer like "that colored wire should go to that colored wire" ; ) Thanks
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Hello, I have a 1971 Series 1 240Z which has a few issues which needed to be rectified to pass inspection here. One of which was the reverse lights not working, which I thought would be a simple fix. -I haven't checked the reverse switch itself yet, because there is a continuity issue with the red/black wiring ( I jumped the red to red black cables at the switch but nothing) - I have power at the red wire to the switch. Here is where things are confusing me. I have continuity from the red/black wire at the switch to the red/black wire at the three prong connector (shared with YG/BY) from the engine compartment harness to the dash harness. However, ther…
Last reply by 1971s30, -
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So, let me start off by saying that classiczcars.com is by far the most helpful, accurate Z Car website by far. Thanks to a write up by BlueisNow, I was easily able to swap the internals from a 280z tach into a 240z tach and now my tach reads PERFECTLY! Big up to the man like that.. So, now that I've swapped it, the backlighting will not turn on, neither will the blinker lights. Any of you fine gentlemen ever experienced this before? Thanks for reading, C
Last reply by kayinsunz, -
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Hey guys I am currently working out some issues with my 75 280Z. The EFI has been removed and replaced with carbs. Lately I have been having some random starting issues. It doesn't happen all the time but once in awhile it will crank but not turn over. I have narrowed it down to the fuel pump cutting off during starting/cranking. Currently the fuel pump is wired directly to a 12v ignition wire from behind the ignition switch. I hooked up a volt meter to this ignition wire and usually 9 times out of ten, it only drops to 10-11 volts during cranking...but every once in awhile it drops to 0. When this happens I can look at my fuel gauge under the hood and it drops to 0-1 psi…
Last reply by HaZmatt, -
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Yesterday as I drove my 240z home from the upholstery shop the tachometer took on a mind of its own and the car seemed down on power and running rough at idle. Once I got home I looked under the hood and immediately saw my coil was leaking oil. Worse yet, it looks like it has been doing this for awhile, how did I miss this? Anyway, I have a new coil on the way but also wanted to test the ballast resistor. With the car running, if I ground the negative lead of my digital multi-tester against the body and place the positive lead on the resistor terminal on the right I get 13.65V. If I place it on the left terminal with the + sign I get 11.74V. From what I have read …
Last reply by Hardway, -
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Iam in the process of installing an new ignition coil that came with its own white resistor block. It has a wire that goes from resistor + to + on the coil. My issue is that the new resistor as two attachment point were as my original resistor has three attachment point. (Early 74/260Z). The original connections goes like this; the small cylinder (condenser?) is connected to the + of the coil than a blue wire from harness goes to coil negative. White/black wire from resistor negative to + coil Black/White wire from harness goes to + resistor Black/Blue from harness to its own pole on resistor. Black wire from harness to - resistor to positive coil…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Hello, I have a 1976 280z and the radio, A.C., and wipers are not getting power at the fuse. Every thing else gets 12 volts going through but 0 volts at those 3. The wipers, blower fan, vacuum electro magnet for the A.C. (no vacuum getting past), and radio (has an after market radio do not know if it needs its own power cord.) all do not work, also the fuel warning light, glove box light, dome light, volt discharge light, right turn signal dash light, hi beam dash light, and speedo dash light do not work but I am not sure if all of the light bulbs are good. Dose the car have an accessories relay that i can hit with a hammer or replace? Any help will be appreciated, T…
Last reply by SeanT, -
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Use of DIY stethoscope showed "box of rocks" noise during warm up is coming from the alternator. Guess a bearing is shot. Stock alternator is 40 amp. The two from autozone were 50 amp. I see RockAuto has 50 and 60. A couple of voltage regulators have gone out in 7 or 8 years. I plan to get a 50 amp, any problem with that ? Any advantage or problem with 60 amp ?
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
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I am trying to understand the wiring functions in the overhead/dome light. I have studied the FSM (Figure BE-23) and the wiring to my light to find out why my light does not work by door contact or manual (lens button). I am trying to use my very basic electrical knowledge and use my voltage tester to determine energized and grounded wires. I clearly test the Blue/white stripe wire as constant 12 volt, battery powered. I also get a functioning ground signal from the black wire. The bulb (even tried several) tests as good. However, I can't get any power across the bulb connections...BW (BE-23 code LW) and Black/red stripe. I know that BR is controlled by door swi…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
Iam in the process of installing an new ignition coil that came with its own white resistor block. It has a wire that goes from resistor + to + on the coil. My issue is that the new resistor as two attachment point were as my original resistor has three attachment point. (Early 74/260Z). The original connections goes like this; the small cylinder (condenser?) is connected to the + of the coil than a blue wire from harness goes to coil negative. White/black wire from resistor negative to + coil Black/White wire from harness goes to + resistor Black/Blue from harness to its own pole on resistor. Black wire from harness to - resistor to positive coil…
Last reply by dat260, -
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On my 1977280, the emergency/parking brake switch has only one wire. Black w/ male lead from bottom of switch to ground. The FSM shows this B wire from switch to ground yet also a green/yellow stripe wire going toward the switch..does this GY (ignition powered) energize the switch? How does switch energize for the black wire to function as a ground?
Last reply by Zed Head,
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