Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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Has anyone located a source for a replacement switch for the engine bay service light? I have two R&R's in work but one has a broken toggle. Thanks for any leads or tips.
Last reply by Zup, -
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when I remove the e12-80 and wire the pickup direct to the msd 6al what do people use to close up the hole in the side of the dissy thanks kully
Last reply by kully 560, -
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I took it apart and realized that it used to be the hazard switch. Then I found a hazard switch spare that I've gotten from a 78z but that wouldn't fix my problem. . So this wire is a direct shot from the battery.which is interesting. that's what it used to look like. Any ideas on where to go from here. I tried to install the other switch that I had my taking the jimmy rigged one out and putting a used one that's intact but that wouldn't solve the problem. . this old one has a blue wire but none of the hazard switches I have, have this blue wire but have the rest of them Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by SeKcGamer, -
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I've had my '71 for a couple of weeks now, and I put a battery in it for the first time in a long time, The car sat for at least 10 years. I wanted to go through and see what worked and what didn't. I did open up and clean out the headlight combo switch. Parking and headlights, dash lights, brake lights, and hazards work. As does the starter, blower motor and horn. That's the good. No wipers, but the relay does click. The windshield washer is also non-op, but I can hear it trying when I press the button. I'm less worried about these items, since I haven't started diagnosing them. The brake lights turn themselves off, individually, when I use the turn signal…
Last reply by ByStickel, -
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Has anyone had success with a tach amp and their stock tachometer? I have a '76 280z with an Electromotive XDi2 ignition. I ran the electromotive tach amp and my tach drops about below 1200 rpm and above 4000 rpm. Has anyone had success getting past this problem? This is an electronic issue with the amp confirmed by the electromotive technical rep not a loose wire problem.
Last reply by Dreamzz, -
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-JDM-Option-Nissan-Digital-Taco-Suit-B13-N14-S13-240z-510-P10-210-Dash-/302270529809?hash=item4660ba4111:g:W2IAAOSwXYtY4Dv4&vxp=mtr
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
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I balked some years ago at the cost of replacing the stamped metal tray for my battery and instead put a container in for moving it to the hatch. In doing so, I became subject to a number of rules regarding how the car must be prepared to run on the track, the most onerous of which is a kill switch on "the rear-most part" of the car. For reference, here's the ever-popular internally regulated 60/70A Hitachi from a 280ZX: I've had a Moroso 74102 for some time acting as a kill switch (mounted to the rear panel, through the license plate), installed per the directions but I'm getting ready to run a 100A alternator (to support some other modifications), and re…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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- 9 replies
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Purchased a 72 race car that had been using the original Z wiring. I am in the process of rewiring by removing all original wires and replacing with new. My only elec. components are elec. fan behind the radiator, gauges, rear lights, fuel pump, ignition, cool suit and the original defrost/heater blower. So far three questions: 1. There is a single wire attached to the center of the brake pressure differential located just below the front brake booster. Is this needed? 2. I believe the car still has the original alternator. One wire from a elec. post labeled "E", one wire from a post labeled "A" and a T plug with two wires. Is all I need to do is attach th…
Last reply by Mojos 72z, -
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Sometimes my car seems to start best if you turn the start key to start, then release to run, that's when it begins igniting and running on its own. I was thinking about this and wondered if its possible I had an intermittent key switch issue. I get my analog meter (better for quick changes in current flow readings) and hook up to the + side of the distributor connector on the ballast resistor (the spade connector). I disable the starter solenoid (pull the spade connector) and check for voltage in the run position, looks good, then I advance the key to the start position, still voltage but a drop, him that seems odd, I review the FSM and confirm if anything ther…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 3 followers
- 15 replies
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Hello, I am new to the z world, but I've always loved this cars, i could just never afford one. Finally got one and apart from some electrical issues i am working through, the car has potential, i am confused on the alternator schematic. What i have circled in red, is that the T connector i keep reading about? Also, looking at my alternator, the connections on it look nothing like the schematic, all i see is a single wire running to it. ill post a picture of it when i get home.
Last reply by kutukutu1, -
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- 18 replies
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I have a short or something going on that when I pres the brake pedal the sidemarker lights and the dash lights come on in addition to the rear brake lights. Also when I have my headlights on the turn signal for the left signal lights up ...Anybody have an issue like this and how did you fix it. Thanks
Last reply by zdude1967, -
- 5 followers
- 8 replies
- 1.2k views
I installed a heavy duty headlight harness on my 1978 Z and now my high beam lights are on when it is in low beam mode and the opposite I have low beam lights on when I pull the lever to switch to high beam. Any one else had this happen when installing a headlight harness?
Last reply by Zed Head,
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