Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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I just recently got my Turn Signal / combo switch and hazard switch redone by Dave and let me give credit where it is due... it looks staggeringly good! I have no more weird light issues, as Dave fixed them! Great vendor! However, having said that.... here is a new issue....all my lights and radio and every thing work beautifully. But my horn is acting funny. When I turn the wheel the horn beeps if I turn it just so far. I think the turn canceling tabs are hitting the little spring arm. That spring arm is suppose to touch the back the wheel brass all the time and pressing the horn button makes the connection if I recall. Has anybody ever had this issue?…
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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Lately there have been several threads that all seem to be discussing timing advance problems related to the E12-80 electronic distributor conversion on older engines. For example: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34031&highlight=E12-80 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34073&highlight=E12-80 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34126&highlight=E12-80 In at least one of them I ask if there was any way to know which distributors might be good candidates, and which ones to avoid, but never really got an answer. So I took it upon myself to download the factory service manuals for all five yea…
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
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I have an original antenna mast with the plastic string broken, and about 10 motor units that all now work. I was wondering if anyone has tried to replace the plastic string? I have an idea I would want to try however I only have one mast, not even a later model one to try first, so I wanted to see what has been tried. If you tried something please let us know even if it failed. Hear is what I was thinking of doing. I was looking at string trimmers' string at the same diameter and stiffness to replace the string. The nice thing about trimmer string is it comes in different harnesses, and thicknesses so finding what will work will not be the problem. The problems are …
Last reply by newtonhubcap, -
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I have been cleaning all the connections and replacing the rubber seals on the connectors in the engine bay harness. A couple of the ties supporting the harness are damaged and unusable. I have been searching the internet for the original 280Z reusable style cable ties, but they don't seem to be available anymore. They are the ones that secure the harness above the frame rails, both sides of the engine bay. The parts manual doesn't list any part number for them and they are probably NLA. Maybe they were used on later model Nissans. Anyone know if these are still available or maybe some good condition second hand examples? Thanks Chas
Last reply by HSL, -
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My left side brake light is not working. Good bulbs, good fuse, like new bulb harness. The parking light works on that side as does the turn signal, but no brake light. My car is a 73 240Z. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by nahurry, -
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Basic question I know but basic's where I'm at. It should be about 8 volts across the coil right ? I'm getting about 4 volts across the ballast resistor which seems about right, but only 4 to 4.5 volts max across the coil. If it's supposed to be 8 there must be a resistance somewhere that's hogging about 4 volts. Not the only electrical problem of course. One time, got zero volts across coil. Cranked the starter accidentally and turned the key back to "on" engine still off, then I got the 4 volts again.And with the engine running, still got the 4 volts or slightly less, but every 5 seconds or so it dropped to about 1 volt. Maybe there's a vibration-related int…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Searched the electrical forum but couldn't find much. It would help to get a link or two. Need to do some troubleshooting of the ignition system. Unraveled a harness, found some corrosion and other surprises. Don't want to do a big electrical job, don't feel qualified, but looks like I might get stuck with it. Got and read some troubleshooting books, and watched some videos about soldering and crimp connectors. Seems easy enough, and maybe it is, but wondering what to do when I get to one of the many stock multi-connectors. If I find a burned or corroded one, or if I accidentally mangle one while trying to "fix" it, are they still available ?
Last reply by jwtaylor, -
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Wanted to rebuild the combination switch and broke one of the tabs holding down the metal plates. Not sure what to do now. I'm guessing I need another switch? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by hatepotholez, -
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I purchased my 260z (build date 8/1974) with the headlight upgrade with separate relays for high, low, fog, and wash. I have working brake lights, hazard, and turn signals. I tested the wiring at the combo switch by testing the white/red wire with a test light and it has voltage (so wiring from fusible link is ok). With the headlight switch turned on I tested the solid red wire with the test light and it has voltage so that means my switch is good. The headlight power is coming off the positive starter bolt. Would I now test to see if the relays are bad? Howard 1974 260z
Last reply by 882993md, -
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I have an issue with spark on my 260z. I am keeping the transistorized ignition system in the car as of now (totally open to removing it however). I realized that i did not have the correct wires running to the distributor, That it was supposed to have a GR/GW combo going into it. I have these coming out from the TIU under the dash, BUT apparently both of my distributor units are points type..... I assume that this means that I cannot run them? is there another way to run the system? Or should i go look for a 260z distributor? (cant find any around specifically for this car with its TIU, everything is for the other on the dizzy modules)... Man 260'z have reall…
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
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After some trouble shooting on my driver side brake light I determined the point of failure was coming from the turn signal switch. Once on the bench I could tell someone had been here before as the tabs showed tool marks and were not flat against the board, this is usually not good. After carefully opening it up I discovered everything was pretty clean but the usual ball bearing stalk contact had been replaced a glob of resin and solder that has been sanded in to shape, probably due to be lost the last time it was taken apart. Should I try to just build up the solder or track down the ball bearing? I think the bearing route is best but does anyone know the size? Mig…
Last reply by hatepotholez, -
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I just swapped from the FI system to some SU carbs on my 1978 280z. For the fuel pump I just mounted a new low pressure pump right where the old one went. I have not touched any of the wiring other than just disconnecting it from the old intake so I could replace the manifolds. I read somewhere that the fuel pump is somehow hooked up to the CPU and pulling it will require you to re-wire the fuel pump so it runs. Is this true? I only read it on one post out of the hundreds that gave information about the swap. If it is connected to the CPU and I am required to re-wire it, does anyone have any experience and could tell me how you did?
Last reply by Captain Obvious,
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