Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
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My factory horns were shagged - sounded like an anemic fart at best. I need good horns with all the SUV / flotilla drivers who don't look down before lane changing Added a sub harness with grounds and a single JPT connector replacement for the factory spade, then installed the Volvo/Fiamm horns on the factory brackets Left side Right side grounds on right inner fender
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
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This may be a simple answer to my question but here it is. I have an early 1970 240Z with the headlight wiring that uses the ground circuit for the wiring. It also switches the ground for the high beam. I wanted to know if the wiring harness that is common (Dave Irwin's) will work on this model or do I need to do some sort of modification. I have run across threads that say its different for the early models that use the ground wire. So I just want to be sure. I hope this makes sense.... I am also going to make the harness myself so I just want to make sure I follow the correct method to wire it all up. Thanks, Tim M
Last reply by MyDatsun240Z, -
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Following SteveJ's suggestion I've been converting all the external bulbs to LED. I found in the process that my reverse light circuit was dead - no continuity through the reverse light switch on the trans. Checked when I was changing the gear oil. New switch in place. One of the Datsun guys on the Old Volvo forum said these switches tend to not last. Since I had the under dash open again for the HEI module swap out, I cut the R/blk feed from the switch to the rear & fed that into a relay as the trigger signal (86). Switched power to the relay is the R/gy wire, 2nd from the right. No fuse in the pic yet. Output from the relay (87) then connected …
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
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One of the wires coming out of the ignition switch just gave way and my luck it broke inside the little housing. Is that housing removable does anyone know? It didn't look like it but I diodn't really want to get a screw driver under there and go at it too hard. Any suggestions on how to repair this? I've seen some other ignitions have the wires exposed but of course mine isn't that lucky 😞
Last reply by Richie G, -
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Now that I have the cowl prepped, and the Datsun linkage repaired & lubed, I'm doing the Honda wiper motor conversion documented HERE Reference thread regarding reverse polarity park 75-specific wiring post There's also another link somewhere for the AtlanticZ 'how to fit" PDF So, the big Q for me is how this all ties together. The FSM BE overview & wiring (page BE-62 & BE-68) for 75 shows the interval relay. The intermittent amplifier is shown on overview BE-6 and wiring BE-68. It is not shown on the flow diagrams on BE-66-67, unless I'm missing something. It's unclear to me, even after reading the function overview on BE-60, what exactly it…
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
I searched & did not find any specific content related to solenoid and/or starter circuit. Now that I've actually driven the car on short (3-5 mile) runs around the local towns, I have found that the starter will not engage unless I cycle the key several times once the engine & bay are hot - I can hear an audible click from the starter, and the amp meter shows a heavy draw at that moment the key is held in the start position. Up til now I have only started & run the car idling in my driveway. I gather the issue can be related to the wiring from the ign sw. to the starter solenoid, if it's not the solenoid itself. Since it seems to be a heat soaking t…
Last reply by Patcon, -
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Hey, working on restoring my turn/headlight assembly on my 73 and hadn't really found a tear down of the high/low beam switch so I figured I'd post some pictures while I'm at it The spring in the pin on the right is removable, i just didn't want them rolling away so I kept them attached. Inside the plastic housing is a plastic triangle that the pin actually switches other end to the left or right side when you depress the switch. It's held in by a retaining pin but I didn't want to push my luck trying to get that out. At the tip of that is the spring and brass top, which is rocked back and forth against a little plate which connecst the circuit to the high…
Last reply by Terrapin Z, -
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A friend was working on a customer's 78, and there was an issue with the headlights. I took a quick look at it a couple of weeks ago when my friend was hosting a party (It was a great way to decrease the amount I had to socialize.), and it seemed like corrosion in the fusible link may have been the cause. The fusible links were pretty nasty. My friend put in a Maxi Fuse holder, but the problem remained. I went out to take another look today. I saw voltage on both sides of the right fuse when I pulled the ground on the circuit. However, the was no voltage on the downstream side when I had the ground plugged in. I cleaned the fuse holders with a wire wheel, but no chan…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Hi gang, I’ve gone through 5 alternators in the past 7 years. These are all rebuilt ZX units each of which had different problems (hemispheres not lining up so couldn’t mount, squealing bearing, etc). That said, the vast majority had the internal voltage regulator die and overcharged the battery per the voltage gauge (yes I checked with a multimeter). Because oreilly lifetime warranties these, I’ve just been swapping them but I’m tired of this haha. Are there any drop-in brand new (not remaned) alternators that work? I know there’s a gm alternator that does but that requires permanently modifying the mounting bracket which I’d like to avoid… …
Last reply by chaseincats, -
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The 72 I'm working on has the usual melted fuse contact on the Parking/Tail lights circuit but as I went through the car I checked every bulb and contact points, the wires and connectors and didn't find anything concerning. The car is back together but that same fuse holder getting hot. Any ideas where I should start my hunt? Thanks
Last reply by Yarb, -
So, a little background. For my AC system control relay, I need a signal that ties into the charging circuit (D+61). On a Volvo, this would travel to the ground side of the idiot light, and ground through the alternator (D+61 terminal) when the engine is not running. As far as I can tell, there is no way to wire this to the alternator, as it doesn't have a equivalent connection 75 280Z Volvo alternator, has an additional diode pack. I don't even know if using a later internally regulated Datsun alternator would fit the bill. I read in another thread (can't quote it here) @SteveJ - That the L terminal of the V reg…
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
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I have at least one socket with broken/dried out tabs for the HVC control panel - I'm not finding anything searching for repalcement sockets in general - has anyone found a generic / aftermarket bulb holder/ socket that will clip in place, that also has the correct bulb depth? I know the bulb socket for the low fuel light will fit here - so I will likely cut the harness on that & use it here. I'd still like to know if there are any useable options for the instrumentation.
Last reply by SteveJ,
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