Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
-
- 5 replies
- 1.1k views
3 years ago I was struggling to sort out some nasty electrical problems with help from SteveJ. During the process i replaced the original VR wih a new one, in hopes that it would solve the problem or at least overcome some of them. Image attached. Two weeks ago after driving at night I was left stranded with a dead battery. Cause? The new and improved VR was dead, so I pulled dug out the original and re-installed it. Problem solved. Keeping all of my old parts from now on.
Last reply by anthony_c, -
-
- 2 followers
- 34 replies
- 5k views
Most vehicles have long since changed away from a potentiometer based instrument dimmer to a Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) based electronic dimmer controller and I've been working on retrofitting one of these newer style electronic dimmer controllers into my 280Z. I poked around the junkyard looking for one that would mechanically fit in the original potentiometer location and settled on one from a late eighties to early nineties Toyota Camry. The main criteria needed are short stubby mounting depth and rotate control instead of a thumbwheel so I could mount it in the original dimmer pot location. This is the dimmer out of a 91 Toyota Camry: The biggest hurdle with this…
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
- 6 replies
- 1.5k views
I have had this ongoing problem for some time now. Basically the lock cylinder works great, the ignition switch (when not hooked up to the cylinder) works great, but when the ignition switch (with arrows pointing towards each other [ >< ] ) is screwed into the body of the rest of it, I find that I really have to crank the key over multiple times and only get it to crank every dozen tries. I'm assuming that the metal piece that actuates the switch is out of alignment or bent. Not sure if this is a common issue, but I'm getting tired of taking the steering column apart and would appreciate some words of advice! Chris
Last reply by CDL1542, -
- 8 replies
- 1.1k views
I finished rebuilding my engine and am starting to swap it in. 280zx distributor, MSD coil. The setup ran fine 3 days ago on the L24. Now with the new L28, I have very weak spark. Spark from the coil to the distributor is strong. It is intermittent and weak from the plugs. Will the oil drive spindle being in the wrong position have any effect on the timing of the spark in the rotor? We we tried a new MSD coil and no change. The other option could be wires, ignition module, cap, rotor or plugs. Everything is new or less then 2000miles. i ran the ignition for a while testing oil pressure without the plugs in. Without them being grounded, is …
Last reply by HuD 91gt, -
- 3 followers
- 20 replies
- 6.9k views
Hello everyone, looking to see where I can purchase the terminals and rubber covers for the fuel sending unit wiring. Mines are as hard as a rock. Thanks!
Last reply by DaveR, -
- 1 reply
- 834 views
Ok so first off I have a 1977 280z. I am currently using an alternator from an oldsmobile cutless 1981. This is a 83amp alternator. Everything is mounted and wired correctly. As of recent I have been having the issue of charging. Now my charging light turns on with the engine off. I have checked the resistance in the yellow and black wire from the alternator to the battery and I read 40ohms. I believe spec is 35ohms. Now the factory volt meter is inaccurate. 14v charging looks like 16v (I have verified no over charging system charges at 14.7 when charging). Now heres where things get interesting I have seen the voltage drop when putting a load on the system lights, blower…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 1 follower
- 7 replies
- 2.5k views
Hey Guys, During the process of getting my 77 280z running I have ran into an issue. The car runs great but it is only running on battery power, the alternator is not charging. I first suspected that the alternator was just old and worn out so I followed the ZX upgrade procedure and eliminated the stock voltage regulator. I completed the install and am still getting the same results (no charging). During my research I have found that most people have some sort of diode on the back of the alternator connected to the voltage output wire and grounding to the housing. My car does not have this diode. I also am getting battery voltage at one of the T connector wires. Im …
Last reply by Driftinrican, -
- 4 replies
- 3.1k views
My stock 76 had a 2 wire water temp sensor in the thermostat housing.. I plan on using the housing from the donor motor, which was from a 78 or 79 z or zx. Are all of these sensors the same? I noticed the water temp sensor had 2 wires (1 bullet, 1 ground screw) on my stock one, but the donor one only has the bullet connector, no ground. Will this work? Is it internally grounded? Thanks
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 9 replies
- 1.1k views
Both mine have come loose and need to be soldered back on. Are they specific or just a ground break switch? Thanks for any help.
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 1 follower
- 14 replies
- 2.1k views
I checked my alternator while the engine was running and it's putting out 16.8 v at the alternator and the battery, that's way to high isn't it? Thanks, Chris
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 2 followers
- 7 replies
- 3.9k views
I know this has been a recurring subject over the years but so far I haven't found a definitive fix for it in the archives. 1970 240Z, same year tach, Pertronix ignition. Tach will accurately show RPM up to 4000 then it cuts out and the needle drops back down until the revs come below 4000 when it will start working again. Any advise welcome, thanks, Chris
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 1 follower
- 6 replies
- 1.5k views
The fuse cover over the AC fan motor fuse was distorted (lightly melted). I replaced the cover and used the correct 20amp fuse. I installed a reman alternator a few months back after the orig unit shorted thru the diode pack, taking out the fuse link with in and killing the entire electrical system. With the reman alt in place everything works BUT with the lights and fan (AC) on at idle (800-1000 rpm) the voltage at the alternator is 12.5v and the amp meter shows a slight discharge. If I get above 1500 it will just keep up. I am pretty sure its not the regulator as I have jumped the field coil to the bat term (idle speed only to avoid over volta…
Last reply by Dave WM,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
