Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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I have a 73 240Z which I converted a few years back from points to a Crane 700 electronic ignition. Ever since I did the conversion I have had difficulty starting the car when it is cold and the engine easily floods. The spark appears weak while cranking and often needs a shot of starter fluid to turn over. The real problem is that it generally only starts after I stop cranking the starter. As soon as I let off the key to stop the starter from cranking is when it generally starts. It seems like the starter is drawing too much current but I'm fairly convinced that it has something to do with how I have the electronic ignition wired as this was never a problem before the co…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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When I got my Z a few months ago I noticed those clamp on style terminals (where you cut off the orig end and just replace that and not the cable). I tried to find a correct cable (4 ga with 2 assy terms one for the EFI and one for the chassis ground) but could not find one on line. I ended up going to advance auto and for about 15$ I got a 48" neg with the two leads that had crimp on ends attached. Cut it down to about 24" and removed the plastic on the crimp on ends so I could solder in the EFI and ground lead. Finished up with some heat shrink. Solder on copper lug for the connection at the starter mounting bolt. Looks a lot better and I hope will be trouble f…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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The TIU on my bone stock'78 280Z bit the dust so I decided to replace it with a GM HEI unit. The one I got was new and from a '83 Buick Regal V6 in case anyone thinks it matters. I took the 5-pin connector off the old TIU circuit board and wired the HEI unit to it so I could just plug it in the wiring harness like the old TIU. I wired the 4 pins and ground on the HEI to the appropriate pins on the old connector and confirmed I had good conductivity through the connector. When I plug it in the car won't start. It cranks but has no spark. The seatbelt buzzer doesn't even come on when you turn the key on. Has anyone installed a HEI unit this way before? I checked that I had…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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The teardown slowly continues. Gameplan is a dip or blast of the stripped down car so I want to remove all the harnesses. The harnesses are a huge improvement over the wiring I found in my 68 Datsun 2000 roadster, but also much more complicated. So far it looks like the large plugs are self explanatory and the smaller ones ( contrary to the 68 roadster) are actually color coordinated. I will be taking careful notes and diagrams, and tagging all the ends of the wires but am looking for any helpful tips some of you Z experts may have learned in your years of experience. As a whole the harnesses look very good-RR tail light wiring is damaged-appears to have been chewed …
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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My auto electric book from the 90's says buy alt / VR as a set so they "match". Does it matter ? They don't sell sets, and there's a generic photo of the VR's used for different makers and part numbers. I think I have a 60 amp alternator, all they seem to sell are 50 and 60 amp. Same alternator part numbers for 240, 260, and 280z. Want to get a spare VR to keep in the car. Had both kind, mech. and elect., go belly up so don't know which. From the original look of the one on my car when I bought it, I guess they lasted longer previously. Maybe the new mechanical ones are made by older children, since they're more complicated. My new elect. one is working OK I gues…
Last reply by Chickenman, -
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I don't know if this will work but it seems like it might, if my limited understanding of how the tach works is close. It uses the GM HEI module as the "pulse" source for the tachometer. One scheme is for the 240Z current-reading tach, and the other is for the voltage-reading 280Z unit. Serendipitously, the factory GM HEI module limits current to about 4 -5 amps, apparently. The current through the 240Z tachometer should be about 4 amps, so it's a pretty close match. 13 / (1.6 + 1.6). Primary circuit coil resistance and ballast resistor are both 1.6 ohms. 13 volts is nominal battery voltage. The 240Z tach just sees voltage rising and falling as the coil ch…
Last reply by madkaw, -
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I have Daves' H.L. relays. My car is a 12/71. My wires are loose- their not in a harness. I can't see where to put plugs from the relay directions. As in pic, there is three connectors coming from the relay, but there are only two H.L. connectors. Does the other connector coming from the relay connect to the park- turn signal connector on the passenger side of car? Any help please. Thank you.
Last reply by timsz, -
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Hi all: I searched here for the answer, and I Googled a bit for a source. But no luck so far, other than Ebay, which has connectors that don't look the same as mine. I noticed on my '77 (that I just bought) that the AFM connector does not seem to have any retaining means in the AFM. If I unbolt the AFM, the connector falls out as soon as I move it. I'm concerned the connector will fall out while driving. Is there a source for a replacement connector, aside from getting an entire harness? I can't even tell what is supposed to retain it. But I assume this is not an uncommon issue. Before I shell out $300+ for a harness, I'll explore a home-made solution. B…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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- 20 replies
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So my mechanical fuel pump was pouring fuel into my oil. So out with that. Been wanting to upgrade to electrical for a while. Now to the nitty gritty. I know there is a T shaped female plug by the radio that you must short together to get power at the plugs by the gas tank. The problem is I'm not getting any voltage at that T shaped plug. So I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong or there is a fuse somewhere I need to check. I wish I had a service manual for the wiring diagram. I spent a few hrs going around pretty much with no success. My car is a 71. So the 73 service manuals are the only ones I have access to.
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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After reading a recent thread here that included so information about the Crane HI-6 installation, I did some more search online. I think a cleaner burn at idle and mid-range might do my ride some good, especially with the SM needles. I might try running it with points. According to the instructions, and other sources, it can be done. I saw on MSA catalog that HI-6 is triggered by points, etc., but they don't recommend it. Crane doesn't recommend it either, see attached, due to points float and wear. However, I read some stuff that recommends the points trigger, as it's cheaper, no issues installing a retrofit trigger or different distributor, easy to switch back…
Last reply by Chickenman, -
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I can't figure out what these wires go to. They go from dash towards fuse block. They are in the same wire cluster that has the alternator to fuse block wire, horn wire, dome-instrument wire, R L lights wires, etc. The bullet connector wire on the right is blue. The spade connector is red-blue stripe and green wire. Thank you very much.
Last reply by timsz, -
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The wires in pic are coming down from dash towards fuse box. The blue wire with inline fuse ( the wire is a little bigger than the rest), does it go to the heater fan or rear defrost? Also in other pic, I see that a blue-white, a blue-red and a blue wire go to the antenna. I also see that a blue-white wire goes to cig. lighter. I don't see another blue-white wire, there is only one. Any help? Thank you very much.
Last reply by timsz,
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