Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
-
- 10 replies
- 5.4k views
I am posting some photos of part details as I restore. Hopefully they can be of use in the future. I painted the light compartment white to improve output. Heat Shield (seems like engineering correction to alleviate melting plastic) 7.5W Retaining nut in place. Light leak at top edge. Gasket does not seal.
Last reply by Richard McDonel, -
-
- 1 follower
- 15 replies
- 15.4k views
I spent some time last night with a wiring diagram, a soldering iron, and a beer looking at my ignition wiring to see if anything is wired funky that could be messing with my voltage going to my pertronix and coil. I discovered a few neat things. First the way the coil gets its power. I think this is cool (although it is old school to most of you I am sure). In the stock configuration when you turn the key to the last position right before you start, the coil gets its voltage after it runs through the ballast resistor. A stepped down voltage if you will to protect the points I would imagine. Now when you turn the key, the ignition sends 12 V straight to the starter…
Last reply by Johnny wick, -
- 3 replies
- 1.3k views
I am considering in replacing the Ignitor Coil that the former owner of my 72 240z had installed. I believe the coil is somelike weak. Anyone has installed Ignitor II Flamethrower coil? Any experience? I read it delivers 45,000 Volts. This is the one i have currently installed in my vehicle: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4020
Last reply by Johnny wick, -
- 11 replies
- 1.4k views
If you had an LED bulb (an 1156) with lotsa SMD chips on it, how would it fair if it was exposed to some moisture, like an occasional splash of rain, or some mist? I have a license plate lamp with the clear lenses missing.
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
- 1 follower
- 3 replies
- 1.3k views
Last Monday my 72 z was broken into and and attempted to be stolen the only thing that saved it was the fact that it hadn't been driven for two days and the idiots probabaly know nothing about the choke on older cars so it wouldn't start and they bailed. But they did manage to break the tumbler on the ignition switch so now I can start my car with any key, stick, stiff piece of cardboard or any other thing that will fit. So my question is this, Has anybody had any success with any keyless remotes or push button starter switches with a remote key switch since I have to replace this any I should probably upgrade to something a little more theft proof Thanks for any suggest…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 7 replies
- 3.8k views
I'm helping a friend restore his 1973 240z so I figured I'd throw some data here for all to enjoy.
Last reply by 240260280z, -
- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 1k views
Ok you heard it before= Flashers dont work as they should. The cars front right flasher gave up on me 6 month ago. The front left one worked but i had to hold the lever down to make it work. During the last month of winter i pulled my dash for some repair. Its now back and everything workes exept the flashers. Hazard light workes. No front flasher workes. Rear flasher workes when the light switch is in OFF position. If i turn the headlights on the rear flasher stop working. Have i connected something wrong? I took the hazard switch out and opened it, cleaned everything. Made no difference. Any idea?
Last reply by moelk, -
- 12 replies
- 7k views
I am having an issue with one of the direction arrows light on my speedometer as it remains lighted when i turn the light of the car on. I thought the problem was the turn signal switch, so i unplugged it. the left arrow still remain on. I started to jiggle the socket and now it does not turn on, so i believe the bulb must have burned. How can i fix this without pulling the complete dashboard apart? What kind of White led bulbs should i purchase to replace all these bulbs? Any supplier and part number? Anyone???
Last reply by Johnny wick, -
- 0 replies
- 1.4k views
My 71 240Z started doing this late last summer. At the same time it started killing the battery after parking it for more than 3 days without driving it because of parasitic voltage drain. After reading through numerous threads and endless hours of unsuccessful electrical troubleshooting of these problems, this is what I have figured out to remedy these issues. At first I thought the ignition switch was faulty. The new switch didn't change anything. I thought that maybe the new ignition switch was bad too, but before I got too carried away I decided to go back again and try to figure out where the battery drain was coming from when the key was in the off or lock position.…
Last reply by glassguy, -
- 1 follower
- 0 replies
- 2.1k views
I had a collection of odd problems all happen in one day, hot start (unclear why), stuck fuel pump relay (had to use my pump switch to get home), and brake pads grinding on the disc (caught just in time), and one of them, just to confuse the overall situation, was that my tachometer stopped working correctly. It would just bounce around between zero and 500 or not move at all. I pondered living with it like that for a while after I fixed all of the other problems, because changing tachometers is a pain, but remembered that I had had to install a condenser on the negative terminal of the coil years ago, when using the GM HEI module with a 300ZX ignition coil. Since t…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 2 followers
- 11 replies
- 1.6k views
Putting the 71 heater stuff back in the car. Added a new modern fuse block to eliminate some power woes. With the new block in and hooked up, the a/c fuse has no power with the key off or on. Is this the same circuit that runs the heater controls? Bench tested the blower motor but with the harness in the car I can't turn on the blower motor. All the heater stuff was bypassed when I bought the car so i'm kind of working from scratch. Any idea's?
Last reply by GeoJoe, -
- 10 replies
- 5.8k views
I am planning on replacing my - 45 --- +45 original ahmeter / fuel gauge installed from Factory in my 1972 240z with a used 280z voltmeter / fuel gauge. The purpose of doing this is because it is not working and could be damaged. The fuel section does work perfectly. Anyway i have several questions: 1. If i decide to change the alternator to a High Output 125 amp alternator if it was not damaged will it still work as i have a spare 45 ahmeter? Right now it has a Bosch 60 amp alternator. 2. Will this upgrade of a 280z voltmeter affect the originality of the car? Value of the car? 3. Will i need to make some modifications to the circuit or is it just plug and play wit…
Last reply by Jehannum,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
Yarb
