Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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My brother and I an effort to simplify our 280z'z wiring have removed most of the stock ignition parts. We have replaced them with an MSD6a, 8920, Mallory coil, and the stock magnetic pickup that came on our 77 280z. We have the fuel injector pulse wire hooked up via the blue line. We have the smaller gauge red line from the MSD going to the ignition panel we are using. We have the smaller gauge red line from the 8920 going to the ignition panel we are using. We basically have the stock key in the ignition and it’s always on wired up and away. We use a master on off switch because it’s a race car so we do not have to have the key functioning in any way. Here is the …
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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As I have mentioned in other threads, when I originally put my 240Z back together I installed a GM style "Single Wire" hot-rod alternator in place of the 40A externally regulated unit. Well, that silly thing died recently, and since I really need the car operational next weekend, I decided to do the ZX upgrade described here: http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/ I went to the local Advance Auto, and ordered an alternator for a 280ZX Turbo, because they are supposed to be 70A units. I am not sure that is really what I ended up with, but the test report that was taped to the rebuilt alternator shows a maximum output under full load of 72A at 13.5V, so I was happy to see that. …
Last reply by Jehannum, -
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Question for those with relatively intact radio setups in their 240Zs: is there a radio-switched power connection to the rear? I'm adding a small amplifier with a bluetooth receiver (as well as a couple of modern speakers), while retaining the function of the stock AM radio in my '71, and should the radio switch power somewhere in the back already (maybe the antenna?), it would be fairly convenient to use that to turn the new setup off, when the stock radio turns on. If not, is there a switched output somewhere on the radio itself that I could run back to the rear?
Last reply by Jehannum, -
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Here's one for Cap'N O- I have a dinger from a 280ZX, but it doesn't ding-dong all by itself. It's basically a tiny doorbell, so it only goes ding-dong if you pulse the electric power. My goal is to power it, like you would a small bulb flasher. There is to be a minimum of parts (2 or 3.) My two ideas so far were to use a blinking Christmas tree bulb (Circuit 1) and just run the 12V through it. It should work, but the ding-dong rate should be a little slow. The other idea uses a flashing LED (Circuit 2) to control a transistor, so the bell gets enough current. I had some graphics prepared, but I'm still figuring out how to get one into a message.
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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I'm wanting to install a buzzer and obviously will need to pull power from when the headlights are turned on. I was wondering if there is any way I could avoid cutting into the wiring? I was thinking that maybe I could use the connector from the combo switch. I could fabricate a short stretch with a tee that would insert between the plugs on the combo switch and the dash harness. As long as those stock bullet connectors aren't an oddball size I would think that would work. Thoughts?
Last reply by Adam78, -
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This is something I started a year ago when a friend had problems with his electrical system on a 240Z. It was late 1970 version and we couldn't find any clear color wiring diagrams. There are color diagrams, but mostly traced over original scans and not very clear when printed. The problem in the car is since solved, so now this has falling into the background. It is in AutoCAD 2013 and exported to PDF. Im wondering if there is enough interest. If so I will finish it. I will need input since my Zed is a 280Z. Here it is so far. Please note "work in progress" Chas ColorWiring240Z1971_Concept 15-feb-2015.pdf
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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In stead of ordering fusible links from an eBay seller, or from a mail-order retailer, both of which are getting harder to find and may soon be no longer available at all, I think I can get the correct wire from local Auto Parts stores. I have not had an opportunity to dissect one to see how it's made, so I'm asking if anyone has looked into this. It looks like a fusible link is just a short segment of insulated wire with a female blade-connector crimped to the ends, but the OE ones look like the connector pierces the insulation to make contact with the wire inside. After I get some replacements installed, I will take apart one of the old ones to see how you could make o…
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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My 280Z uses an MSD 6A ignition. I need to hook up the tachometer, but I don't know what to do. More specifically, the 6A has a grey wire that is related to the tachometer. I imagine the tachometer has some input wire that is looking for a specific voltage. My 6A is in my engine bay on the right side (near the relay box). Is there some convenient way for me to hook this up? I would prefer not having to run a wire through the firewall and splicing stuff onto my tach. Also, I do have the 8910 MSD module that is apparently required for correct functioning. Thanks! EDIT: Here is what I see in the relay box: http://imgur.com/a/0VyHN. I'm hoping I can use one of these. Thanks a…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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My car cranks but chokes out if you press on the gas. It will only rev if you very slowly increase the acceration. Performed several successful test from the Electronic Fuel Injection manual. When I tested the voltage on pin 1 from the harness, Test #2 - (1) Ignition Coil Trigger Input Circuit, it was supposed to read battery voltage, but read only 3.6 volts. Anyone run into this problem? I'm only finding people that performed this test successfully with a reading of 12v. Thanks.
Last reply by stroccoli, -
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Alright guys so I was planning on using a Mallory MAL 2363901 distributor and pertronix in my 11/70 240z but I just got an email back saying that they're discontinued and sold out. Every other place I've tried online seems to be sold out as well. I'm thinking of going with the Mallory unilite with mechanical advance (no vacuum advance) coupled with pertronix and was hoping someone else here might have had success with it and can give me some info. I'm going to be installing triple mikuni carbs shortly and plan on keeping the ballast resistor and using a 1.5ohm coil as well. If someone has done this before and could share what model they are using it would be greatly appre…
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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Does anyone have any experience with these lamps? I haven't been able to find any specifications on them, but I think they are a 3 x 5 inch spot lamp with a 50 watt bulb.
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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Hi, just purchased some battery cables(pos. and neg) and noticed that the ground has a butt connection instead of a ring terminal to screw into the firewall. Would anyone have the length for the ground cable to the firewall and also the length of the main ground wire? Also the positive cable length. I am attaching a pic from http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/. Thanks, mo
Last reply by hatepotholez,
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