Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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I’m troubleshooting my windshield washer circuit and I’m stuck: 1) The wipers work but the washer motor has not run since I got the car ~5 years ago. 2) Voltage measured between the two wires when unplugged from the washer motor reads 3.8V when the washer button is pressed. 3) At individual wires I’m getting around 12V to relative to ground (11.97V and 12.31V) when the washer button is NOT pressed. 4) On one washer motor wire I’m getting around -0.56V to ground and +3.2V to ground on the other wire when the washer button IS pressed. I’m assuming that there should be +12V going to each contact when the sprayer is not used and the…
Last reply by Jeff Berk, -
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I found a website that lists many of the old YPC connectors for sale. Here's a link to their YPC inventory: https://www.hi-1000ec.com/product-list?keyword=ypc&Submit=Search&page=1 The last item in the search is for a pin removal tool, too. The website whois shows a registration in Japan. I placed an order last night, and today I received an email with a photo of the shipping label and a photo of the parts I ordered bagged up. That certainly inspires confidence in ordering. This should help in making repairs and modifications to 260Zs and 280Zs.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I'm trying to trouble shoot - anyone have a circuit diagram?
Last reply by pmajor9, -
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I'm trying to find the proper orientation of the marker lights on 73 Z. As you know they are thicker on one end and thinner on the other. I've look at numerous phots of z's and it seems to vary. Anyone know the correct orientation? Does the wider part go towards the front of the car of the back or the back? Are the front ones orientated differently than the rear? Thanks for your help. Didn't find an answer in the other postings,
Last reply by Racer X, -
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So, I decided I wanted to update the fuse box (it'll be one part of the electrical system plan), I designed one in Fusion360 and got it 3D printed by my brother in law (he's new to 3D printing and I haven't a clue about it). Here's what the result was. The back side didn't print real smooth, but I figure that's operator error. This is designed for full size blade fuses. I tested it with female spade connectors (snap-in) and a blade fuse. They fit and connect with a little tension. The mounting tabs/ears are spaced accordingly and are same general shape as the original (thickness might be a bit different.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I have a 6/71 which should have the earlier harness with the longer pig tail fuse box connections. Seems the PO mixed and matched some stuff from a 72 or later and I think I have a late 71 / 72 dash harness and short pig tail fuse box. As I start on the dash area restoral couple of questions if you don't mind. First, are there any major differences with the harness I need to worry about or as long as the fuse box matches the harness I should be good? Everything seemed to be working off dash / console except the radio and rear defrost but I know why. The rear defrost had the inline fuse holder broken (needs replacing) and the radio was something he just threw in there…
Last reply by Richie G, -
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The paper gaskets are too damaged to reuse so I'm wondering if I can use a thin layer of liquid gasket instead of the paper? The sealer would keep the horn from rusting up again the way the paper gaskets allowed but wondering liquid gasket might damped the vibrations when the horn is sounding off. Any experience either way?
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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My alternator recently gave out in my 73 Z, so I ordered the MSA 60 amp upgrade kit. I decided to give their alternator a try instead of sourcing one locally. Of course they warned me it's made for 70-72 Z's, and additional work is needed for a 73, have a pro install it, no warranty, etc. There are a handful of threads here for a 73, but some with broken links, and some with unanswered questions. Maybe this thread can be used to consolidate 73's. From what I gather, for a 73: Install new alternator and connect per instructions. The regulator plug (Dave's) is the same for 73 as 70-72. Extra wiring is required if you are running an electric…
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Last reply by jpc3006, -
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Hey guys, I am reassembling my dash and my next obstacle is replacing all the broken connectors (have broken locking tabs) on the dash harness. I have heard vintage connections carries datsun connectors, but they don't seem to have what I need. My connections seem to be bullet connections inside the connector instead of spade. I am sure many people have ran into this problem. Should I just repin the connectors for spade connections and go with one of the vintage connectors. I would prefer to find the proper connector and save the hassle of repinning the harness, so let me know if you know where to get these connectors!
Last reply by crayZlair, -
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Can anybody guess what I'm about to try?
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I'm working on completely rewiring my Z using one of the Painless harnesses. Since these don't come with provisions for the rear defroster, I was just going to use one of the spare circuits to power it. I measured the resistance of the traces and got about 29 ohms which would give a current draw of about half an amp and about 5 watts of heating. My question is, do you think this would be enough heat for the defroster to function properly, or is the resistance of my defroster too high and in need of refurb? I appreciate the help on this one!
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
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Recently I lost the fuel and temperature readings on my 1972 240Z simultaneously and am wondering if there is a connection. I know on Roadsters there is a step-down voltage regulator that controls both functions, but I'm not sure if there is any relationship between the two on an early Z. Checked the connections at the fuel tank and the temperature sensor and they seem secure. Is there a single fuse somewhere that controls both? Thoughts?
Last reply by Racer X,
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