Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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- 2 replies
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While cleaning the connections and sockets for the tail lamps, I noticed that the foam gaskets were worn out, dried up, crumbly, or missing, so I decided to make some new ones. The hardware store didn't have any closed-cell foam that is about 5mm thick, so I browsed the craft store, and found a sheet of 3mm foam. I cut a strip the width of the gasket diameter, and glued it using spray glue to make a 6mm double-layer. I tried to cut one gasket by hand using a sharp knife and scissors, but it didn't look right, so I got a brass pipe fitting from the home improvement store that has the same diameter as the gasket I.D. It was slightly too large, so I created …
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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My Intermittent Hazard lights are not working properly. They do light up on the panel but flash very low on the front turn signals lights and tail lights. I have attached a picture of the flasher relay that came in my car and does not seem to be the original one. Maybe some can chime in with the solution. Please be advised all the rest of the lights are working in the panel and the rest of the car. This is the only problem and i want to fix it. When i actÃvate the hazard switch you can hear the flash sound but you cannot see them flash with the same intensity as they should.
Last reply by z boy mn, -
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Hey Guy's, A quick general question about the ignition switch diagram in the FSM.... I need to find a wire that has power on it when the ignition switch is in the start/on position... For the following diagram Would I be correct that I could tap into the wire coming off of position 14, or 16 provided that they had +12vdc going to them from somewhere? Thanks
Last reply by peng155, -
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Hello, my baby is having trouble idling and accelerating. I just recently installed MS2 in her so I could surpass the issues I was having with the electrics. However, the problems I was having before are almost the same as the problems now. A very rough idle and no acceleration in the rpm. I have replaced the coil, distributor, plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, ECU (to MS2), and the fuel regulator. I hooked the distributor up to my laptop and the board and spun it around with a drill and got rpm on the screen, so I think that works. The coil is working too because cranking it over unhooked give plenty of spark. I did a check on the fuel pressure after the fuel filter and go…
Last reply by ZDrummerGuy, -
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- 5 replies
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I am doing a lot of work on my 76 280Z to begin driving daily. I just realized that the previous owner bypassed the heater control valve and the heat is on continuously. Does anyone have a heater control valve they may want to part with reasonable priced or know where I might find one. May be needing other heat/air related parts as I move forward. Thanks.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Hello, Me and my dad just recently installed a MSII V3.0 into a 280z and have been having trouble getting the car to run properly. It will idle rough, bog when revving, stall for no reason..etc.. We've done everything in TunerStudio to try and make the car run at least decent. But, rich or lean with extreme advance or retarded in spark makes no difference. So we've come to the conclusion that the original electrics on the car are the problem. The fuel pressure is at a solid 30psi and through numerous tests of the injectors, we know they all work no problem. Testing the connectors going to the injectors shows that they're all fine too. It all comes down to the ignition sys…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Definitely a "measure twice and cut once" project because they're hard (expensive) to replace. 0000 steel wool 1st then I used a light compound and wax on the lenses. Painted the insides of the housing with gloss white. Used flat push nuts and rubber washers to attach the chrome strip, also painted the inside strip flat black. I found a fastener for that middle plastic post, the one you have to break off, that holds on the chrome strip. It has to be ground down though. I used a die to cut threads in the plastic post which did two things, took away the taper and gave it some "teeth" to grab the fastener's threads when I pushed it down onto the post. I dr…
Last reply by rossiz, -
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Hi guys question for s30's guru in you picture of my alternator in the car and new MSA alternator there is a yellow wire coming out of the MSA alternator with a sqare plastic connector that i have no clue what it is and what to do with it. all other things are the same on my car (1971 240z) alternator may have been modified by PO) MSA sent a connector that i do not need. Thank's in advance JeanP
Last reply by jeanp, -
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Hi Folks.... New question... When I got the 'Z' the fuse box suffered the usual melted plastic around the fuse holder problem from the high current draw of the lights and accessories through the fuses. I changed out the fuse box with a new MSA replacement about 10 or so yrs ago. I had to cut the White, and White/Red wires to remove the old fuse box, and I butt spliced the new one in... when I stripped the wires to do the splice I had a look at both of the wires, and did notice that they were pretty well oxidized... I cleaned off the ends as best as I could with some emery cloth, and spliced in the new box. I also did the one-wire GM internal regulator conversion, I insta…
Last reply by peng155, -
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Hey Guy's I'm thinking about installing a voltmeter into my 71 "Z" to monitor the health of the charging system in the car. The ampmeter only can tell me so much, but the ampmeter along with the voltmeter should give me a better picture of what the charging system is doing when the car in running... What I'm not sure of is where to tap the voltmeter into...... I'm thinking of connecting the voltmeter at the alternator output post.. my other option is to tap into the electrical system somewhere that is on when the ignition is on. Looking for opinions on what you guys think... thanks
Last reply by peng155, -
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Hey all, I have a 74 260Z with a tach issue. First off, its a V8 swapped car with a Tachmatch box which until very recently worked perfectly fine to display the correct RPM. Once in a (long) while the tach would start hunting around sporadically, but it would go back to normal after a restart or two. Well, the other night, it stopped working entirely. The Tachmatch box has a 'test' mode. With the ignition on (engine off) I have measured this mode to output a steady 1.4v to the signal wire. I then removed the tach from the dash and measured this same 1.4v at wire (A) red/black With the ignition on, I also measure 12-13v across wires ( green & black Does anyone k…
Last reply by thedarkie, -
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Okay! So to start, I can't read those stupid wiring diagrams worth a flip. I have come across a low grade HID conversion kit for my headlights. Each headlight works individually, but when I hook them up simultaneously, they flicker back and forth. I have decided to wire relays into the original circuit and route wire straight from the battery to each of the headlights. Problem is, I don't understand how the brights even work. . What I'm asking for is a walkthrough of the wiring from the battery, through whatever switches, and to the headlights. High beams and low beams. Stock setup. I can't seem to find anything descriptive on this matter. If you do know of a w…
Last reply by SteveJ,
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