Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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- 2 replies
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Thought I'd share an interesting issue I encountered with my turn signals. They would work fine with running light/headlights off. Turn on running lights only or with headlights and they would stop flashing. Running lights in front were dim I changed the flasher to a solid state (no load) to try it out, and it did the weirdest thing. Signal to turn left and the rear light would signal left, but the front would signal right. Signaling right would do the opposite as well. Also the running lights in front would flash too and they are not wired to do so. I figured out that the ground for the running lights, shared with the turn signals, was floating and it looks like it w…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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- 1 reply
- 680 views
quick question to the electrical gurus out there (i am not adequately talented in this dark art). yesterday on the way to work the interior fan wasn't working - and it was hot out... when i got to my parking garage i turned on the headlights and the fan turned on with them (the fan switch was left on high) and now it all seems to work, with or without the lights. does this make any sense or was it a very, very strange coincidence?
Last reply by CanTechZ, -
- 10 replies
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Higuys, On a 1978 280Z with OE alternator, I was wondering if there was a way to have things like driving lamps to get switched off when the engine is not running, and I remembered that the alternator has "a blue wire" that goes to the volt meter for the charge alert light, and I thought that if you can tap that wire to set up something for a relay system that powers things like the driving lamps or headlamps, then when you turn off the engine, the lamps will go off too, saving the battery. So is there a terminal on the alternator that goes hot when the engine is running? thxZ
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 11 replies
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This is more of a general car question, but it happened on my 1978 280Z with a Holley carb. I started the car just fine and had it idling so I could set the timing. It took me 5-10 minutes (or so, fast idle was still active on the electric choke) to get my timing gun and when I get back to the car, it dies right away. It was running just fine and then stopped as if someone turned the ignition to Off. After that, the car wouldn't start and any ignition-switched items do not work either (such as the wipers, turn signals). The constant power stuff like headlights work fine. The battery is at 12.62V and I had it load tested at a specialty battery shop just 2 months ago, which…
Last reply by aochider, -
- 11 replies
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First off, I would like to thank everyone in the previouse thread i made that helped greatly with diagnosing and for the most part fixing my EFI issue. The thread can be found http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/52655-fuel-injector-replacements.html Now on to my new issues and questions. After i replaced my fuel injectors i tested plug 1 on the ecu connector and did not read battery voltage. All the circuits for the injectors checked out ok but pin 1 was just not getting any power. From looking at the color wire diagrams available i was able to figure out that i had my coil wires reversed. Switched them around and still i was not getting battery voltage.…
Last reply by Blue_streak, -
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Hello guys, I've got my stock 280z running- for a bit. I bought the car in this condition. 1977 OEM Stock everything 35k miles. Car runs extremely smooth when turning her on while cold. Car will run for a good 15-20 mins idling without driver intervention. Randomly the relay above the EFI clicks repeatedly - as this happens the RPMs drop from ~900 down to about ~500 and sometimes stalls out if the clicking does not stop. As soon as the clicking stops the RPMs shoot right back up to ~900. After it gets close to operating temperature there is more chance of hesitation or backfiring when trying to give it gas, other times when the relay clicks any attempt to give it gas sta…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Car: 72 240Z; build date 5/72 This car was a real mess when I got it. I labeled all the existing connections when I took it apart and can get those back together just fine. Others that should have been there are not. For example, the Defrost switch/Fasten Seat Belts/Choke harness is missing from the little panel in the console. I have identified the two connectors that went to this panel. I still have 5 connectors in the center instrument panel harness that I can't identify and don't seem to agree with either a 72 or 73 FSM electrical diagram. Connector 1 is part of the heating harness. Two pin female with colors Red, Blue/White. Connector 2 is taped to the same …
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 3 replies
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Wonder if Dave's parking light harness would assist getting current to the turn signals. Right front TS is still out, suspect corrosion in the electrical part of the switch, the little white plastic thing. I took one apart before, would rather not do it again since it's sort of fragile. Already cleaned the contacts in the stock harness, the parking light sockets, and the hazard switch. The parking lights, hazard lights and the other turn signals are all OK. Getting voltage for that TS but not enough current. It's a '73, built 9/72. Already have the headlight harness upgrade. Oh, wait a minute. If it was corrosion in that electrical switch wouldn't it also affect the righ…
Last reply by Stanley, -
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- 1.3k views
Where can i get the complete wiper linkage for a 1972 240z? Mine is very rusted and could damage the wiper motor.
Last reply by psdenno, -
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As birthday present to myself, I had the MSA Alternator upgrade ($120) installed a NissTech in Charlotte. While I was at it, I had them do the headlight relay ($148), parking light relay ($120) and marker light conversion ($57) upgrades as well. I had the parts laying around and I could have done all this myself, but I don't have much time off lately. I highly recommend the alternator upgrade if nothing else. All the lights are brighter and the wipers have been raised from the dead. The ignition has to be getting more spark, which is a very good thing. The guys at NissTech are good to go - both partners are experienced Datsun techs and their shop is the regional resou…
Last reply by S30Driver, -
- 13 replies
- 2.9k views
Realized that we were about to put a serious hijacking on to Eurodat's thread here - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/52621-fitting-hei-module-transistor-ignition-unit-1977-280z.html#post459983 Started this new one. Here's a link to a post showing the reluctor output from an 85 and an 88 Jaguar, which apparently used the GM HEI module in their ignition system. Looks similar to CO's Post #15 (to my eyes) in Eurodat's thread. Sean's Jaguar Tech Pages - Lucas Digital P (HEI-based) Ignition Diagnosis
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 6 replies
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sorry first off if this is already been talked over, well i have a 72 240z and found out that the distributor i have is for an automatic transmission, currently there is a manual transmission in the car, if i use the distributor as is what would i have to do in order to get it to run smoothly? - thanks adam
Last reply by Zed Head,
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