Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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Disclaimer: I have a Ford small block in the car, but all stock gauges are retained and they all work. I didn't do the swap or wiring myself, the previous owner did; hence some confusion. Car is a 74 260Z Normally the gauges work fine, but once in a while my tach will go wonky and read 0rpm while driving... at this point the temperature and oil pressure gauges start creeping up, and the fuel gauge starts creeping downward. The temp gauge approaches red and the oil pressure gauge goes up to about 3/4 (normally its around 1/3 at idle). The fuel gauge slowly goes down to 1/4 despite the tank being almost full. When the tach springs back to life, the other gauges go back to …
Last reply by Mikes Z car, -
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My mechanic is recommending a new voltage regulator for my bone stock 1975 280z. I installed a new battery a couple of weeks ago, and now my temp gauge is reading much hotter than it ever has, and the battery gauge indicates a slight overcharge, which the mechanic confirms. He suggests a solid-state voltage regulator. Opinions? If this is the way to go, does anyone know what Nissan part I should be asking for that will fit/work on my Z? Or, should I just get an NOS from Ebay? If that is best, is one brand better than another? There is a wide price differential, but I don't want to save money and get a bad part. Thanks in advance for your advice.
Last reply by beermanpete, -
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The internally regulated alternators (used on the 78 and beyond) use a sense wire to control the alternator output. If the voltage on the sense wire is too low, it bumps the voltage up, and if it's too high, it cuts the alternator output down. Question is... On the cars that came native with the internally regulated alternator, where did they connect the far end of that sense wire? My engineering sense tells me that it would be best to connect the sense feedback wire right to the "+" terminal on the battery, but that's not what they did. And unfortunately this isn't the kind of info you can glean from a wiring diagram. According to the wiring diagram, it's connected right…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
I've been trying to track down the source of my "IGN" fuse blowing within seconds of turning the key to "ON". From my probing around with a multimeter, I've discovered that the green wire side of the fuss holder is getting continuity with ground (i.e. the dash metal frame. I've looked for a wiring schematic that has the green wire on the fuse box transitioning to a red/blue wire after the 6 wire connection but, all the diagrams that I've found don't show the wire changing colors!! From my probing around, I've discovered that this wire goes to the hazard switch but, cannot figure out where it would be coming in contact with the dash frame. I have the dash out of the car, f…
Last reply by beermanpete, -
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I have a very strange problem, my wipers do not work with the engine running but work with the engine turned off ??
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Like many of us with 40+ year old cars, components get old and tired, among them being our Turn Signal Switch Assembly. I had a recurring problem of not flashing the front passenger turn light and the dash indicator light. At first, I disassembled the slide switch and cleaned the contacts. This helped for a while. Then next time I disassembled the unit, the contacts looked clean enough so I did some continuity tests on the switch itself. the lights worked OK with the un-mounted switch but failed again after re-assembly. Jiggling the loosely mounted switch got an intermittent operation. Observing the operation of the switch I noticed there was a lot of free play in the va…
Last reply by djwarner, -
I am thinking of putting driving/fog lamps on my 78 280Z that has stock front bumpers and body panels. I am open to the type of fog lamp but have been looking at the hella rectangular lamps in Black Dragon's catalog. I have 2 questions: 1) where should I mount them to keep them out of harm's way? 2) What lamps would you recommend if not the Hellas?
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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Anyone using MSD 6A or 6AL with points? Searched all the posts, lots of threads (problems) about hooking it up to 280zx distributor, Unilites, Pertronics, but found nothing useful about using it with points. So either it's impossible, or seems too difficult, or it's so easy nobody bothered to post a question. My '73 240 has stock Euro distributor and stock wiring including a regulator. The tach wires to + terminal on coil (distributor wire is only thing on - side), so if I understand, it's a current triggered tach (9/72 build). I counted 6 wires on the tach so maybe it's a 4-wire (!) if that matters which I doubt. Anyway according to the instructions, it needs a Chrysler…
Last reply by 63ronin, -
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I have been posting on another thread about dash removal but thought I would post here. I have no dash lights..... I have removed the dash. I looked at one of the bulbs and it appeared to be good. I put a meter on the bulb and got approximately 5.4 ohms. I think this means the bulb is not bad. I also jumped across the green with white strips and the white with red strip on the combo switch with no success in getting dash lights to come on. Note here, all other lights work. I figured the next thing to test is the rheostat dimmer switch. I have seen a few write ups but don't exactly understand how to check. If someone can give me the novice version that would be gre…
Last reply by bhermes, -
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My 71 has a single wire going to the drivers door pin switch and a single wire going to passenger door pin switch. The door pin switches have two wires. Can i connect the two wires from pin switch into the one wire? Both doors are separate (they each have their own single wire) Will it work if it's connected like in pic. Thank you, TimsZ
Last reply by timsz, -
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Hi all Now that I've removed the faulty immobiliser the car will crank easily, however I still am having trouble starting it. Appreciate any advice! After cleaning and regapping the spark plugs yesterday I was able to start and drive it, however it stuttered and carbs backfired a bit. Today I can't get it going again. After attempts to start, it does smell like unburnt fuel so I think fuel is being provided, but not so sure about spark. Car has a Pertronix electronic ignition system installed. I have so far: - Checked voltage at battery - 12.5V - Removed the red Ignitor wire from the coil positive terminal and connected a jumper wire from the positive side of the b…
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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I orderd a fusible link for my ignition. The original color is red the one i recieved is light brown. Is this the same as the red or am i going color blind in my old age? The thickness in the light brown is much smaller than the red. Hoping someone can give me advice before i install..thanks again. 1978 280z
Last reply by Carl Beck,
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