Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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I recently purchased SPAL USA 37000148 Two-Door Power Lock Kit for my 280z. Also I purchase Viper 3105V alarm kit. SPAL 37000148 kit comes with 2 actuators and 5+2 wires harness. Also I purchase the switch. The wiring harness is using 5+2 wires. Since I'm planning to install speaker, power window kit, I would like to reduce the number of the wires. Therefore, I prefer to get rid of original wiring harness and just run 2 wires for the door lock. When I research the12volt.com mentioned I need 2 relays to operate lock/unlock function. I'm not sure whether I need total 4 relays (2 per actuator) or just one set (2 relays) only. Here is what I'm planning to wire actuator…
Last reply by tamo3, -
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Okay so today I decided to remove the three gauges from the center of the dash to replace the bulbs. Had the MSA 4w bulbs that are to long. I purchased those Eiko green certified bulbs some members have been talking about. They are also 4w but, they are no where close to the MSA 4w bulbs. They are definitely considerably dimmer than the other 2 gauges. Bummer. Anyone experience the same thing?
Last reply by rcb280z, -
Hey everyone, I've read the forums on adding a headlight relay set-up for Z cars, and saving switches and directing more voltage to the headlights makes perfect sense to me. But, I'm a little confused about what package to get, and the prices are really different. For example, Black Dragon sells a kit for $30: Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX & Mazda RX7 iCatalog - Black Dragon Auto Seems pretty straightforward...but the Datsun store sells one for $156.00 Headlight Relay Kit 70-72: Electrical Z - Lighting - 20030-EBE - Z Specialties Online Store - If we don't have it in stock, we can get it! I hate doing things twice, so I'd rather have something that will last than so…
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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I have been saving 280Z plugs for the voltage regulator and have gathered quite a few over the years. Was wondering what the interest would be if I make a few of the a plug and play plugs for the internal to external alternator upgrade. It would be like the ones you see made by Dave for 240's but for the 280Z.
Last reply by jimbob_racing, -
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Hi! I have a problem with my tach. It only goes up to 500 rpms. It moves a little bit when I rev the engine, but no more than 550rpms at the most. When I stop the engine it goes back to 0 rpms, so there is a signal there. What is most likely to be the problem here? I just got a new 1.6ohm resistor and the coil is stock (I think). Regards, Tomzern
Last reply by beermanpete, -
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I dropped my gas tank for cleaning. The fuel gauge hasn't worked in a while. Checking the sending unit I'm getting ohm readings close to spec plus fluctuation from full to empty. Back at the tank area upon doing the gauge check by grounding the yellow (live), the gauge is supposed to bury the needle, nothing happens. Connecting the hot and ground to the meter I'm getting continuity reading. From those indications it appears I need a new gauge. Rebuilt are $200 which I will get if what I'm doing I is correct. Are there any other tests available?
Last reply by rocketdog, -
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I'm putting in a honda blower motor in my Z. There's the blue wire, but as you can see there's a red wire that's attached to it. That wire goes to the pigtail in pic. It has the inline fuse also. There's the other blue wire beside it that has an inline fuse also. Does the blower motor wire connect to the blue/red wire or does it connect to the other blue wire? Any help? And why don't i see anything about heater motor on wiring diagrams? Thank you very much, TimsZ The other blue wire isn't in the pic.
Last reply by timsz, -
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Only thing that has changed is that I got rid of my dizzy and coil since going with Megasquirt. Voltmeter on the sensor wires gives an erratic volt reading. I tried looking at the schematic and it's not making sense. Maybe gauge when tits up, but the timing of this issue makes me think it's something I did. Any clues?
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 2 replies
- 878 views
I am sure that this post is not a revelation but just thought I would post something here. I have a post, a few posts, in the EFI section and have been chasing a fuel delivery issue. After dropping the tank and cleaning up, fuel filter replacement, installing a fuel pressure gauge, adjusting several other things, it appears that the problem may have just been bad connection at my fusible links. If anyone out there is having issues and think it may be fuel related I am just recommending checking battery voltage and specifically the fusible links. I cleaned mine up some and the car is running much better now. A little early to completely know if the problem is 100% resol…
Last reply by SilverStreak28, -
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I've had this 71 datsun 240z for a few weeks. one day it just stopped running(it was a barn find btw). I checked the electronics. they looked pretty good. I replaced the plug wires, the sparkplugs, the condenser, the distributor, the points adn the coil( i routed a wire around the ballast resistor because the new coil produces sufficient ohms). after all this still no spark. I've started testing continuity and so far its turned out good but i still dont know where to put the ends of the ammeter thing when testing the tach to where the blue/white wire leaves the cabin. The compression is good in the engine and sufficient fuel. so i'm really at a loss as to what to do. any…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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Are you in need of a replacement connector for your tail lights but don't want to use or gamble on a used connector? Would you like to upgrade to a different bulb type (3156/3157) that does not require a spring as well as twist in turn action? Well, I found just the one for you. Introducing the Dorman 85881 connector for late model GMs. It utilizes a 3157 bulb (two filaments) but can be used for every light in the tail light housing. For the reverse light you just don't wire up the third wire. Now there is just a tiny amount of modification that needs to be done to both the connector and the housing, but it is very, VERY minor. First, the housing. You need to trim…
Last reply by ktm, -
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I ordered a replacement 9 SMD LED (BA9S) for my engine bay light thinking it would give more light than the bulb Im using now. Only problem is the LED won't fit under the standard lens. Its too short. To get it to fit I made a 10mm longer lens out of two other ones I made and from that I made a mold for a new longer lens. Now the LED fits and the end result looks like the original all be it a little longer. Its a lot brighter than my old bulb and uses a lot less current. Im happy. Chas
Last reply by TomoHawk,
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