Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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- 27 replies
- 5.3k views
Today was the first day in a while that was dry enough for me to really drive the Z vigorously and safely. I noticed that my car is losing almost all power at 4000 rpm. The stuttering sound it makes is like its run out of gas, but then it starts backfiring. Seems like both from the exhaust and intake at times. This only happens above ~4000 rpms, in all gears. It idles fine, and drives fine at low RPMs. Since I haven't been driving it in that fashion real recently, I'm not really sure when the problem started. However, the car has a new rotor, distributor cap, pertronix ignitor, alternator upgrade and battery. I really feel like its an ignition problem. I immediately suspe…
Last reply by zKars, -
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- 9 replies
- 1.8k views
Hello All, Well as usual, if all else fails fall back on the forum pros. I have the dash back in and I am hooking everything back up and installing the interior. There is a black wire with a bullet connector hanging next to the speedometer. It looks like it is coming out of the harness directly above the speedometer and the end is missing so I can't tell what was there originally. I don't see anything that looks like it is close in the wiring diagrams. See the picture for clarification on what I see. Of course it is the only wire unhooked and not labeled when it was removed!!! The next step is to pull the dash again but I don't know if that would really benefit me.…
Last reply by JeffMopar, -
- 1 reply
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Hi, I have a 1973 240z, rewired the car with an EZ wire harness, and I have upgraded to a 60 amp alternator from a 280zx. I've driven the car fine until I had an issue of the alternator overcharging. The original 60 amp ended up testing bad, so I replaced it, and made sure to test the new (re-manufactured ) one I got. It tested fine, but when I installed it in the car, I hooked up a multi-meter and it was going up to 15.7 even after warming the car up, and putting load on it, including lights and an electrical fuel pump. Anybody have any idea what could cause this? Such as a wire too small going into the voltage regulator, or just an alternator that instantly went bad? O…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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I want to add a fuse block to the engine bay to help remove some of the high current flowing to the stock fuse block and ignition switch. So far I've installed Dave Irwin's headlight upgrade harness and parking light harness. The new engine bay fuse block I would power the electric rad fan, fan controller, fuel pump and starter relay. I'm thinking about using this block, 100/30A LED Micro Blade Fuse Block | Princess Auto Can I assume that it can handle 100amps total and no more then 30amps on anyone circuit? Thanks, Chris
Last reply by madkaw, -
- 5 replies
- 1.4k views
After Googling around for the last few hours, it seems that there's a few threads spread across several forums regarding this problem. I hate to beat a dead horse, but I'm new to Datsun's as I ended up with my particular 280Z in a trade for some off road parts. Overall the car is in awesome shape and appears to have been well loved by its previous owner(s) More amazing to me is that everything in the car works, it starts and runs great. But since the day it rolled into my shop, about 2 weeks ago, the turn signals and hazard lights do not come on. The headlights work, all the gauges work, brake and tail lights, side markers come on. Hell, even that stupid light under the…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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- 2.3k views
So what i am dealing with is a 74 260z coupe with a 5 speed from a 280z and the starter on it is from a 280zx. Initially I use to have issues with the key ignition just clicking over, so I bypassed that with a push start to turn the starter over, after that resulted in the same outcome after a good while I decided to install a stand alone starter silinoid and ran the push start to it then to the starter. Now my issue is the start just spins, Ive had the started tested at a local autoparts retailer and it passed, I even tried a new starter and new battery all with the same outcome, When looking at the flywheel it doesnt seem to be to far gone that it wouldnt be engaging. …
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
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- 858 views
I was in a hobby shop looking for Lionel train bulbs with the same base as the Z car gauge bulbs (BA9S) when I saw an LED display (display of bulbs). I ended up buying a package and building an LED gauge bulb. Unfortunately, LEDs have a very directional output and the gauges are designed for the all-around glow of an incandescent bulb, so the brightness did not make its way to where it needed to be when installed in a gauge. It was still fun though and I can see why people get hooked on LEDs once they try a few. I couldn't get a good illumination picture in a spare tachometer I have. Too much glare off the face of the gauge. I did find that the LED turned a turn sign…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 8 replies
- 1k views
Could someone tell me where the wiring harness should be located in the interior passenger side. From the firewall to the hole behind the seat. Does it lay against the rocker panel? Does it go under the seat? Does the emergency brake wire go behind the seat? 71Z Thank you very much, TimsZ
Last reply by timsz, -
- 1 reply
- 710 views
I’m in need of some guidance in isolating an electrical problem. Here are the symptoms: I started the car yesterday and kept an eye on the gauges as it warmed up. I noticed the ammeter was not moving to charge as it usually does – it was holding dead center or perhaps a very slight discharge at all revs. I flicked the turn signals and got a small discharge with each cycle, no change at revs. I turned on the headlights and saw no movement on the ammeter (no discharge), no change with revs. I drove the car a bit to see if anything would break loose and begin operating normally, no joy. Here is some background info: the car came off a full resto two years ago. It …
Last reply by Dr. 240Z, -
- 1 reply
- 2.6k views
I've made a serious effort making sure EVERYTHING works on my Z as it originally did. My first question is about the annoying buzzer that activates when I open the driver door. When I open the driver door, the buzzer goes on and the overhead light goes on. It doesn't matter if the key is in the ignition or not. It buzzes either way. Is it only supposed to buzz if the key is in the ignition? Question 2 is that the passenger door only activates the overhead light when opened. That's correct, right? Once I get this ironed out I should have everything functioning 100%! Yes the original clock works too. Thanks.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 3 replies
- 986 views
Ok, so I decided to replace the key cylinder.. Wanting a new set of keys i could than get my locks rekeyed for. I went with an locksmart key cylinder that I got from autozone. I had to do some altering to the part (mainly trimming the pivot point to reach the full rotation that the original had). I got everything back together the best of my knowledge. I havent slapped it in the car yet. My question is the switch here.. Right now it seems to be a closed circuit.. does that look about right? Is it suppose to move open?
Last reply by ajmcforester, -
- 5 replies
- 1.6k views
Hi there, I've been having a multitude of issues with my 71 240Z lately. The issues have included: Lack of spark when starting (starter motor turning) Not even turning over when starting Engine cutting out immediately after starting Engine cutting out/dying as I'm driving down the street and most recently buzzing when the driver door is opened (although no key is in the ignition - However inserting the key stopped the buzzing) I noticed that the parking brake light would sometimes be illuminated when the brake was engaged and sometimes not. A little jiggling of the key would cause the light to come on... hence my suspicion that the switch may be worn. A couple questi…
Last reply by tttz,
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