Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
-
- 4 replies
- 1.7k views
Hello, I am re-installing my dash and I have run into one small problem. I got everything hooked up, but I am having a problem with the ammeter conversion. The AMP/Fuel gauge is from a 1976 280z. I used he following instructions in my swap: "Basically you just disconnect the two fat White/Red wires (maybe just white?) from the back of the ammeter and re-connect them. Insulate the living daylights out of this connection, and not with just electrical tape. Use heat shrink, preferably the stuff with the glue on the inside. Clean the contacts first. Bolt them together VERY tight. Oh, and take a new 18 gauge wire from this same spliced connection and connect it to the + termin…
Last reply by mr_han_solo, -
-
- 6 replies
- 1.2k views
Ok, My 1978 280Z alternator failed , and I went to AZ to get a new one. The new one has somethings different on it than the original one I had. Heres a pic with the stuff. It appears to be charging, the battery is now back up the volts. The volt gauge inside shows a 15? volt being indicated at highway speeds, and 13 or so at idle. So does anyone now what that white plug is for on the new one? and the condensor looking device and if I need it on there? Also, I went back to AZ to have the check the battery, and the alternator, they said its showing good voltage but the VR is bad?? really? even tho it charges ? Could it be related to not having that new white plug plu…
Last reply by txvepr, -
- 14 replies
- 1.8k views
Can someone tell me how to conduct a circuit test? Specifically EF-37 for the TPS idle. What results am I looking for?
Last reply by 240260280z, -
- 40 replies
- 9.6k views
What would you pay if I told you I might have a fix for the dim parking lights?? Right now i'm working on my brothers early 240Z's (taillights, sidemarkers, and front parking lights) With 12 volts the battery, I put a voltmeter onto the left rear sidemaker. It measured about 9.5 volts (give or take 0.2 volts) When I added power via a relay near the passenger side kick panel, the voltage kicked up to 11.2 volts and the lights got significantly brighter. Even the dash lights got brighter and use of the dimmer switch was still present. I'm going to do a lot of tests before making them for the open public but I thought I'd give you guys (and gals) a heads up on a posible …
Last reply by dat260, -
- 3 replies
- 1.1k views
I just installed a maxi fuse distribution block in my 77 280z and now I just get a moan when the key gets to the start position. I've taken it back apart and double checked the connections. 4 gauge in from + starter, 4 out. Alternator circuit with 80 amp fuse and the rest 50 amp. I was chasing down another charging/alternator problem but it was starting very easily prior to this switch. Has anyone seen this before?
Last reply by n2deep, -
Air Flow Meter 1 2
by LBO730- 18 replies
- 2k views
I'm getting desperate fellas! I'm sure it's been covered somewhere but here's some facts. Been working on this 75 resto for 6 years. Complete disassembly and reassembly. It's done but I can't get it started. I've been thru every test in the EFI bible at least twice. Passes all the tests. I have swapped in a refurbished ECU, still no change. I have 38 lbs of consistent fuel pressure. I have good spark at the coil and all 6 plugs. New fuel injectors and connectors. The distributor is in correctly (not off 180). I've double checked every electrical connection I can come up with. The air flow meter doesn't pass some of the tests. Can a faulty air flow meter actu…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 3 replies
- 913 views
A while back I upgraded to the 60 AMP alternator with the internal voltage regulator. I had never spliced the yellow wire under the passenger seat and decided to look into it today. I know if I search the site long enough I would find what I am looking for but for some reason I am not locating the correct post. I have two 6 pin connectors under the seat. One is fully populated and was not plugged in to anything. The other only has three leads and I beleive that this contains the yellow wire I need to get rid of or at least run somewhere else if I want the brake light to go off and on as it should. For now I am just trying to get the battery from running down every co…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 6 replies
- 1.5k views
I cleaned up a friend's early hazard switch last night. Here's a link to my write-up and pictures. I hope it helps someone.
Last reply by zKars, -
- 1 reply
- 967 views
Hey guys, I've been overhauling most of my electrical ignition lately and wanted your input on ignition coils. Right now, my car has a generic looking black ignition coil that has been there since I bought it a year and a half ago. I don't think that there's necessarily anything "wrong" with it, but I was wondering if there was a noteworthy improvement in using new or different coils. I do have a pertronix ignitior installed currently. I see there are several options for coils, from the pertronix flamethrower models, MSD, hitachi, etc, etc. Is there a best option when it comes to coils?
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
I need some help. My stock ECM for 1976 was burnt so I ordered a used one off of ebay. The part number (green color sticker) on the ECM matches the stock. ( A11 600 000) But the pin settings are different. TOP - Stock BOTTOM - eBay replacement Can I use this or do I need to find something with a same pin set?
Last reply by superlen, -
- 14 replies
- 1.8k views
Hey Guys, Since my alternator died early this summer, I upgraded to a shelf brand alternator, which I'm pretty sure is 60 amps, but still externally regulated. I had not replaced my regulator. This of course fixed the whole not charging thing, but I really don't see the electric system performing any better than with my old alternator. Is it possible that the old regulator is negating the advantage of the larger alternator? How much of an improvement can typically be expected with a new internally regulated alternator of the same amperage? Rockauto's 280zx Reman Hitachis are running a fair $50, and I could probably redo the wiring myself and skip the $20 adapter. Edit: A…
Last reply by ninjazombiemaster, -
- 3 replies
- 1.8k views
Hello, I recently converted my '73 240z taillights and light harness to a 280z taillight. Today I wanted to check the wires with an ohmmeter to make sure I soldered everything correctly. So I disconnected the body harness from the passenger compartment and pulled out the old voltmeter/ohmmeter. Everything worked fine except for the black wire. (ground?) After looking at the wiring diagram it seems that the black wire goes to my rear defroster. Sure enough I traced the black wire from my taillights to this black wire: I can see where the female end plugs in my rear defroster, however, where does the male end go? Also, I dont have another female connector/wire to go ont…
Last reply by jwtaylor,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
