Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,454 topics in this forum
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- 2 replies
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Hey guys, New to the forum, new to the 74' 260z 2x2 as well. Long post, i do apologize but i figure i should provied a full picture to the best of my knowledge. Any and all advice is greatly appericated in advance, Thank You. My roommate basically has had this car since high school, and in the past 10 years it got neglected. I started working on it cause i was bored. Anyway not a car guy so lots of reading trying to make sense of things and ask other car people questions and advice. Car is now running, almost never need the choke cable engaged to get it started even in cold weather. It has other issues i will list below but im concerned about a spark that keeps happeni…
Last reply by Walter Moore, -
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Having issues with a start switch I believe but need some wisdom before I decide to replace it. I've performed the seat belt interlock removal on my 260 by removing and jumping all the appropriate relays but now when my switch is in the ON position the starter engages. Does this sound like a switch issue? It worked fine before I pulled the car off the road, possibly have something simple hooked up incorrectly? Thanks for any input. Dean
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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I'm not sure how long I've had this problem, I don't drive it at night too much. Last evening I noticed my dash lights weren't on when it got dark enough to tell. I came home and realized the PARK lights weren't working either. I have constant power on the green/blue park light solder spot, no power at the the green/white dash light solder spot. If I jumper to the dash light solder they work but the constant power to the green/blue park light solder has me confused, which is easy to do with wiring. Can anyone offer me some ideas? opinions? facts? '77 280Z, build date 09/'76, I've been reading Z'sondabrain thread. Thanks for any replies.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Hello all! Purchased a pair of brand new Koito Headlamp Sealed Beams from my Nissan dealer and they are marked on the back 6024LH and rated at 24V 75/55W. My original headlamps are marked 6012 and are rated at 12V 50/40W. Could someone in the know please explain what the difference is and any compatibility issues there may be whatwith the different voltage rating. The microfiche suggests that this new pair is compatible with its former number, part number 26705-89905. Any input would greatly be appreciated.
Last reply by AZ-240z, -
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I have a '72 with a brake light problem on the driver's side. It does not do it all the time, but sometimes it will not light up when the brakes are applied. I know the bulb is fine. Oddly, it seems to fix itself after I turn on the emergency flashers. I suspect a poor ground, but have not been able to find where the ground to the body is located so I can clean it up. The circuit diagram shows the ground somewhere in the passenger side rear of the car. Anybody have any thoughts on this? Thanks so much!
Last reply by ktm, -
- 14 replies
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So as I posted before I have an early 260z that sat for 12 years. At some point several parts were stolen off of it. At the same time somehow the steering column cover left the steering column and landed in the hatch. Well now it has the following issues. First when you turn the key forward the fuel pump comes on power gos to the coil, but not much else no headlights, no turn signals no brake light. Turn to start and nothing happens, instead figuring it out for now I just ran a button to the starter, now once its running I have brake lights, turn signals, but still no headlights or wipers and only a gas gauge and a speedo. I always have interior lights and choke light. I…
Last reply by 2sixTZombii, -
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Need help identifying a wire - Yellow with green stripe coming from the same wire bundle where the window washer pump wires are. Daniel
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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76 280z So This weekend I removed my heater blower motor and replaced my heater core hoses, when all was back together, later that night I discovered my dash lights no longer work, runners and break lights still work, combo switch is new, fuses and fusible links are good, the 3, 10 pin connectors are connected, so from what I can read online it comes down to two things: A) Rheostat is broken (unlikely has been working fine until now, but will check later) Or I knocked a ground or connector lose, this is the main reason I am here, I would like to know all the grounds and wires related to dash lights that might be under the passenger side, anything with pictures would …
Last reply by Xenn, -
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Hi Everyone. I ran into a fit problem with my regular kick panel pods in cars with dealer add on air. I designed a new set of low profile pods that places the speaker magnet in the pocket for the door hinge bolts. Although the acoustics aren't as good they will get the job done. So if you have dealer AC or your looking for something less obtrusive then these are the ticket. They're $100.00 plus shipping. These are $10.00 cheaper than the regular panels because they don't need the hood cable relocater bracket. They fit 70-73 left hand drive cars only and use a 5 1/4" speaker. Thanks Derek
Last reply by 71ZZZZZ, -
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Spent a good bit of time over the last 48 hours reading posts on the topic, studying my Nissan 72 L20A & L24 series engine manual. Not feeling any smarter, though. Got '73 240Z with SU's, C211 head & cam, nearly new euro non-emission distributor. Had to retard the timing a little to stop ping when they put the new head a couple years ago. Maybe a little more compression. Recently read (no controversy) that initial advance is 17 degrees at 700 rpm for the automatic, also that it makes 15 deg. centrifugal. Not going to happen on CA gas. Putting all the numbers and technical stuff (like the esoteric diagrams on page EE-31) aside for a while, I figure there's two w…
Last reply by Stanley, -
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I have done the E12-80 Distributor upgrade withe the MSD Blaster 2 my z has been running great after the upgrade. Since the upgrade I have been running my z without the tach it hasn't worked since I did the upgrade. Anyway I'm trying to figure out how the wiring goes. I have been reading up on it but I think my problem is that I don't remember which wires are the ones that go to the resistor(removed after upgrade) I uploaded a picture of my setup. I have a Connected the E12-80 to the coil and found the current wire and connected it since I did not have the tach I did not do anything else with the rest of the wires. I have four wires 3 are not connected right now. A)…
Last reply by 3ryce, -
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Made a hard decision today, don't know if it was the right decision but I own it now.:paranoid: While sourcing parts for my car I sent out the original AM/FM radio for clean and repair to B/C electronics in Pennsylvania. It ended up only needing a tune and clean and for just under $200.00 I was confident that I would have a good working original radio in my 72, and it is. Recently while going through all of my extra parts collected throughout the years I came across two original radios with excellent face plates, knobs etc... One is an early AM auto search model from one of the first 700 cars and the other is an AM/FM from a 72. I removed the antenna switches, face plate…
Last reply by Casey_z,
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