Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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The other day I was tearing into a Subie R160 CLSD that had sustained some rust damage and thought I’d better replace the bearings. When I got to the races in the outer side covers I began my usual anxiety cycle where I think of 11 ways to get them out, but all are risky and start doubting if I can figure it out. The dang covers are aluminum and the races are stell, so there is no bangin’ or rippin’ allowed. There is no place to just punch them out, the thick edge you have to apply force to is well shrouded. An internal bearing puller might work but you have to rig up a plate to bolt the hole thing to. Bah After about an hour of going back and forth with ideas,…
Last reply by zKars, -
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I'm not sure if this is normal, so I figured I'd see if anyone else has the same issue. I recently swapped the 4-speed out of my 240 for what I believe is a 5-speed out of a 1977-78 280. I noticed that 1st-4th all seem fine, but when shifting into 5th, the lever will spring back into the center (where 3rd would be). It seems to stay in 5th gear, but my worry is that when trying to shift out of 5th, if I do not manually push it back to the side where 5th is, it will mess something up. I had the transmission apart before I swapped it in to do some cleaning and general checks and didn't see anything "off". When looking at the striking rod itself, the grooves for the return p…
Last reply by frankachino, -
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Trying to put together a car for a junker endurance race. I need the drivetrain "Big Brains' to tell me which head to use. I have a N42 L28 Block in decent shape. It does have dished pistons which are different than the ones that were on my L24. Best I can tell this is normal. I have 3 Different heads in a shipping container that rats are currently pooping on I can use for this block. I have an N42 head that came on the block. Probably needs some machining which is fine though I am not supposed to spend money on the car but I will. I have an E88 with no camshaft installed. I also have a new or rebuilt P90 that is all wrapped up in plastic. I have abs…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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It appears we can not get these bearings from Clevite or KIng . Called KIng and was told maybe in May. Clevite said I can order but would not give me a date. Zmotorsports does not have a date either. Z car depot can not get Clevite. So are there any other brands that are good? The engine had been built by Slover porting in Sun Valley Ca. L28 valves with steel seats, l28 crankshaft and punched out to 85mm
Last reply by billgtp, -
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On my '76 non-CA Z, at idle, I have a very noticeable high-pitched Bronx cheer coming from the area of the BCDD. It's almost a buzzing sound. After reading everything that I could find, I suspect a rupture in one of the diaphragms. The sound will vary if you come off idle. The BCDD seems to still function somewhat properly - that is, holding RPM up for a bit before letting it drop. I could disassemble it to check the diaphragm(s) condition, but I don't think replacements are available, either for the diaphragms or for the entire BCDD. I'm aware that some have deleted the BCDD and plugged off the opening. Having said all that, I should add some background in…
Last reply by Roberts280Z, -
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Long story of how one little job snowballs into a nightmare. Ran the car on the Dyno last weekend. (136 HP, 215 ft-lb Torque). Got home and noticed the radiator was low on fluid. Started looking and have a pin hole in the radiator. No problem, I already traded earlier this year for a 3 row from Motorsport, I will just swap, and while I am there, I will go ahead and replace the thermostat and water pump, then the car will be cooling just fine for a long time. I am in the middle of replacing my water pump on the 78Z. There are 6 bolts holding this pump onto the front of the timing cover. 2 with 12mm heads and 4 with 10mm heads. Apparently at some point in the past when I d…
Last reply by bluez, -
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Finally got the 72 put back together and have been doing a few test drives. Unfortunately this is an automatic and very original car with 75K miles so I do not want to change to manual right now. With the automatic it is difficult in D to get above 3500 RPM. I have seen it once jump to 4500 when I floor it and other times are always 3500 when I floor it. I really think it should drive stronger so I need someone to check my work and tune as needed. I have added newly rebuilt Ztherapy SUs, spark plugs, valve job, ceramic coated header, exhaust, resonator, and other misc things. I know about the person in Fort Worth but that is very far away from Allen TX. I would lik…
Last reply by Yarb, -
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Hi All, Another general maintenance question. The engine developed the dreaded crank seal leak, fling oil all round the engine bay, good times. Question: The current crank pully is a triple pully (see pic). Removed the smog pump, removed the air conditioner, running a single belt on the balancer. So can I remove the outer two pullies? Will I need a different length crank bolt to reinstall a single pully? See pics of the current bolt has a thick spacer???
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Hi All, General question, on speedo gear removal. Can removal and replacement of the speedo gear be done without draining the gear oil? Assume rear end on stands? Need to replace both seals. Thanks.
Last reply by Blitzed, -
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Hey guys, im currently in the middle of taking out my rod bearings after finding some non-magnetic metal shavings in my oil (i believe them to be copper). I have pulled 2 rod caps, and the bearings both looked like this. This looks like particulate wear to me, and the shavings I saw i feel were much to big to be from these bearings. i havent pulled all of them yet, but i figured i would just ask what you guys thought. I had no rod knock or anything, but my instinct told me it must be bearings. Was I wrong? I have attached a picture of the bearing, as well as two pictures of the shavings. Thanks in advance!
Last reply by Reptoid Overlords, -
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Hello Everibody.. I'm new here.. After more then 20 years being a member of the dutch zcarclub i'm now a member here! For more then 20 years hobbyed with the Datsun and Nissan Z-cars.. "have owned a lot of them" serviced them and drove ém.. (240z 280zx and the 300zx z31 and z32 non and TT) I now have a part for sale.. A Slalom camshaft, partnr is on it saying: E1031 Lookt it up and it is probebly 99996-E1031 On the packing it say's also: 475 lift / 275 duration. I think it a nice find for someone who likes to make a nice racer from his (or her's) S30? My question is what is it exactly and how rare? Thanks and... what a nice new website!!! Mart
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
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Working on a customers automatic 72 . Engine is modified L28 with close to 200 rwhp . New territory for me as far as trans . Trying to protect the engine and drivetrain from an inadvertent shift to neutral while the engine is spooled up . Decided to try some gate mods on the shifter . It seems to work excellent on the bench , but haven’t tested yet . These trans will shift out of first regardless whether the shifter is still in 1st . Selecting second gear the trans will stay there —until you blow the engine up or shift. This trans( 83zxt) has had the valve body modified , so not sure what shift points are under WOT . Need more test and tune ! I have the e…
Last reply by madkaw,
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