Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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- 3 replies
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Besides of the trouble i am having with the bad temperature and oil Reading on my 1972 240z i am also considering on reverting to the original camshaft as the car is tending to fail when it is between 800 to 2,000 RPM. Once it reaches over 3,000 RPM it is really stable. The car actually has the following specifications: New Datsun L24 motor with crank and rods from a L26, special oversized 84mm flat top black coated pistons from D.L. Potter Engineering with E88 Head and Far 311 New Race Cam. 2 original SU Hitachi round top carburetors rebuilt. Is it really worth going back to stock cam???? if so what parts will i need to change?
Last reply by jmortensen, -
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A couple of years ago I purchased a california 76 2+2 with a 5 speed trany. From what I've read, the 76 never came with a 5 speed so a previuos owner must have put one in from either a 240Z or a 280ZX. I'd like to know what year vehicle the trany came from, but I can't seem to find any numbers or codes on the trany itself, however, the top flange on the bell housing has the numbers; 7310524 Can anyone tell me if that number has any meaning with regards to ID'ing the trany? Thanks Gary
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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Hello, Just swapped out the points, cap, rotor, and 1 of the two condenser's on my 1971 240z. I couldn't unscrew the "automatic" condenser without some clever contraption without taking the distributor off, so for now I just replaced the standard one. Now my question is, I took out what was a Nissan branded condenser and on the side it had a Rating of 0.22somethings (Funny symbol), the one I replaced it with is 0.25somethings. I purchased it off RockAuto and it said it was a OEM replacement so i'm a little concerned that it's not the same. The car fired right up, but it is still not running 100% correctly (Other issues) so I don't know if this is something I should wo…
Last reply by HuD 91gt, -
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After finding a coolant leak around the head gasket area and while I was under the car I noticed a couple oil leaks. So the one I want tackle now is the oil pan gasket. After finding none of the pan bolts loose Iv'e decided I will replace the gasket. I'm not sure but will I be able to remove the pan without any clearance issues or will I have to loosen motor mounts and jack the engine up any to gain clearance?
Last reply by rcb280z, -
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I've got a 76 2+2 and I'm wondering about greasing the universals on the drive shafts; there aren't any zerk fittings, but it looks like there are some screws; do I remove the screw and put a zerk fitting on to get grease in the universal and then put the screw back? If so, anyone remember what size metric zerk? Thanks Gary
Last reply by Healeyalt, -
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Looks like I have a coolant leak between the head and the block, right near the back of the engine, close to the transmission. I'm assuming this is clearly a head gasket? Not having much luck with this car so far. The oil is still clear (Not milky). Edit: Sorry. the photo is upside down, I can't figure out why. It's upright on my computer.
Last reply by HuD 91gt, -
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Hi all, For almost a year I've been trying to troubleshoot an odd acoustic resonance that starts about 60 mph and gets worse as vehicle (not engine) speed increases. By 70 mph it's scary, but below 60 mph there are no symptoms. I'm not referring to exhaust resonance, and it reminds me of the way my Audi sounds when the sunroof is open but the windows are closed. Initially I suspected the tires, but after replacement with new Michelin's and road force balancing (twice) I replaced the driveshaft, half-shaft u-joints and had everything checked (multiple times) by a local shop. All of the suspension, bushings, bearings, transmission and engine mounts are new. I also chang…
Last reply by Coastalman, -
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Dear Forums, I'm currently rebuilding a stock L28. I was looking at the DSI Big Valves ($408) but was questioning myself whether or not it's worth it. http://datsunspirit....=dsi-big-valves The Intake is 1mm larger, and the exhaust is 1.5mm larger. Looking at my own head, I noticed that the stock valves are already pretty large, and was wondering if bigger valves are worth the extra dough and if they are safe. Also, on that website, it states that the valves are longer. What would I have to change to accommodate for the extra bit of length? I'm planning on running a higher lift cam, but it's still a mild cam and not some crazy .560 racing cam. What are your thoughts on th…
Last reply by Diseazd, -
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Have water in oil, cyls 2-6 fine, nr 1 plug wet, water in oil. Suspect it is head gasket but not sure. Do not have place to do head gasket nor tools, etc, so will have to pay to have done by local NAPA or such (use their head gasket set?) Have had work on truck done there, great place, mechanic i former Datsun shop. Est is 525 plus tax, is that reasonable? IF worse case is head cracked, what is real cost for replacement head. Need to go cheap as 73 on SS, so not a lot of spare cash. Thoughts? Have had 78Z for 25 years, used to do most work self, but back no longer accepts such things. Ole machine and I still run pretty good despite age.
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
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I've been cleaning up a valve cover I got on ebay and after beadblasting and polishing I looked at the red/tan hard goop that seals up the shield for the breather at the top of the valve cover. A lot of it was crumbly, so I scraped it all off and cleaned everything up because I didn't want it flaking off and getting sucked into the engine. Then, I reinstalled the shield. I'm getting ready to install the valve cover and thinking maybe I should replace that red/tan goop with something? It appears it just seals the shield, so my first thought was I don't need it...it's not likely oil is going to go around the corner and out the breather, right? (I just have a filter on the…
Last reply by z boy mn, -
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I removed the transmission 240z to clean and paint the tunnel. I'm getting ready to paint the mount and got a good look at it. The cross member is good but the mount seems to be bent/off set to the front or back depending on the way I point it. If it is supposed to be that way can someone send me to a picture of the mount in a car so I can see how it is supposed to go.
Last reply by bacarl, -
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Pursuant to the recommendations of one of the fórum users i decided to use a kitchen thermometer to verify the actual temperature of the radiator in my 1972 240z and found out that the gauge was not measuring correctly. The thermometer marked 160 degrees farenheit while on the gauge marked a Little bit more than half. Based on this fact the solution of the problem now narrows to the following conclusion: 1. The Temp / Oil gauge is not calibrated and maybe even damaged (the oil is not marking correctly either) or; 2. The Water temperature sender unit is damaged Is there a way of adjusting this gauge or should i just purchase another one on ebay? I tried stopping the fa…
Last reply by Zed Head,
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