Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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I don't intend on going back to SU carbs so I would like to turn the breather nozzle 90* so I can run a breather hose down the valve cover and back to the firewall. I've seen this done but I don't want too screw it up. I guess I'm going to have to remove this baffle inside the cover to get access, does anyone know what this red compound is that is sealing the baffle and what product I could use to replace it after I'm done? Thanks, Chris
Last reply by Mike W, -
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My close ratio 5spd seems to work perfectly except for this very loud rattling/ringing in 2nd,3rd,4th and 5th. I can quiet it down a bit if I hold onto the stick shift all the time, it's driving me nuts, so I've started tearing it down. My Haynes manual is mostly useless but found these great vids on youtube that show the entire tear down and rebuild, they are on post #5 on this thread,http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/45179-rebuild-transmission-tool-harber-freight-6-ton-frame-bench-shop-press.html I love the archives! Here are some pics so far, I know the shop is a mess but everything still has to go in the parts washer before reassembly, …
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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Car: 1971 240Z with an L28 engine and a "wide-ratio" 5-speed trans. Still got the original R180 diff with 3.36 gears. I've read elsewhere on this forum that: "The early five speed and 3.90 happens to perfectly match the power peak of an L28 curiously" This suggests to me that it might be worthwhile trying to find a 3.9 diff to take full advantage of the L28 and the transmission, but as most of you probably already know, they are not so easy to find. Also, I can't wrap my head around why it would be good to go to the R200, due to extra weight and extra work. There's an eBay seller in Canada who has the R180 with 3.9 gears for about $560 shipped, which is quite high in m…
Last reply by robox, -
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Mike - Couldn't have posted this without the upgrade. Hope everybody enjoys looking inside your engine!
Last reply by Captain_Zeros, -
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In need of Nissan 32361-20100 5th gear synchro ring. Anybody have one?
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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I ordered the tune-up kit from MSA for my car. I expected (assumed?) to receive BPR6ES spark plugs with the kit, but got BP6ES plugs. Now I understand that the BP6ES are what are called for in the FSM, but I also like simple pleasures like static-free radio reception and clear cell phone communication. I know all of the benefits of using resistor plugs. Are there disadvantages? Why in this modern age of electronics would I WANT to use a non-resistor plug in my car.
Last reply by djwarner, -
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Hello all, I'm having a frustrating problem and I wanted to get some opinions. I've searched quite a bit but haven't found anything that either I haven't tried or was relevant. That back story: I have a built 3.1L stroker (not done on the cheap) with E31 head running somewhere north of 11:1 compression. The most runs well with good compression across all cylinders. The head has had a sigfnificant amount of work done. Another piece of infromation is that it has a timesert in sparkplug hole number 3 due to an issue with the head that predates me. I'm running triple webers and Electromotive HPX ignition. I AM running PCV, as using advice from Tony D I created a vacuum …
Last reply by ajmcforester, -
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Hello, I have two Crown turbo kits. I am posting these pics for your enjoyment. Sorry, I do not have any info of how they ran other than "stories" from previous owners. Due to financial limitations I have not been able to maintenance and run these kits myself. I am keeping them for the future when I have money to run them. I am building a period correct modified 260z, except for some of my suspension which is modern. Crown turbo kit -Rajay turbo -SU carb w/ airhorn Crown turbo kit -Rotomaster AR/60 -Weber 45 dcoe w/ Crown intake adapter Rajay "J" pipe vs Rotomaster AR/60 "J" pipe They are offset differently, you can not use one on the other. If y…
Last reply by ajmcforester, -
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Yesterday I replaced the belts, radiator, hoses and alternator on my early 71 240z. Now, when I turn the car on I hear a loud squeal right as the car turns over. I'm thinking it could involve something like a belt rubbing, but I'm not completely sure. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Last reply by riceburner, -
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Water in the oil! I have an engine out of a 74-260 Z that reportedly has a blown head gasket with water in the oil. After pulling the pan and head, the inside looks pristine. The engine has 92,00 original miles on it. The oil doesn't have much water in it. The color is dark grayish brown and very opaque. Evidently the engine was not run very long with the emulsion of oil and water. My question is if the head gasket is not leaking, where did the water come from? The only place in the head gasket that looked bad was up front where it overlaps the front cover. This is the original engine out of the 260 & I'd like to use it. I'd appreciate any and all ideas that you ma…
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
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Can someone help me? I need head bolts for my car. I see ARP bolts listed A12 and A14. What's the difference? The A12 is part no. 202-4202. The A14 is 202-4203. I've also seen to use 202-4206. I've searched and I tried to contact ARP by E-mail and phone with no luck. I have a F-54 block. Thank you, TimsZ
Last reply by timsz, -
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Hello, I am in the process of removing my Evap tank and reconfiguring the evap lines into the European style that doesn't have the expansion tank. My question is that I have a vacuum line coming from my manifold and carb advance into a metal distribution block and from there the line runs all the way into the back to the evap tank. What can I do with this line? Is it safe to disregard the metal distribution block and just run the line straight from the distributor to the manifold? Hopefully this picture gives an idea of what I'm talking about: Thanks, Han
Last reply by Stanley,
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