Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,574 topics in this forum
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Over the winter I'm working on giving the car a thorough tune up. Today's project was checking the timing chain to see if it has stretched at all. I got the car to TDC by using a ziptie in the #1 cylinder to feel when the piston came up then checked that against the mark on the crankshaft pulley. I then tried looking through the camshaft sprocket to look for those V and _ marks the haynes manual mentions. If I look behind the camshaft sprocket and down at the camshaft locate plate I can see the _ groove but I don't see a V indentation anywhere. I noticed my sprocket has three holes which differed from the 4 holes the one in the manual had.. so I checked ebay and found …
Last reply by SBK86, -
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In the book How to modify your nissan/datsun engine, it says to apply anti-seize to front cover gaskets and to front cover portion of the head gasket. It also says to coat block side of the oil pan gasket with anti-seize. The other side with weather adhesive. What is the anti-seize compound? Is it the same you put on threads? I was going to use permatex for water pump, thermostat. Hylomar, etc. for flat surfaces. Thank you.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Hey mates For the past few weeks I've noticed that on acceleration in first from a dead stop (and only in first) I get a horrible vibration which vibrates, well, pretty much the whole car. It feels as if something is loose or not grabbing. Any ideas? Clutch? Engine mounts? Jan
Last reply by EuroDat, -
Hey guys Quick question. Is the flywheel from an L20B the same as the one on in the L28E? Thanks Jan
Last reply by zKars, -
Hi folks- This is my first post here. By way of introduction, I am not new to forums and I'm also not new to working on cars. Although I will say that working on gasoline engines is not really my strong suit; I'm a bit more familiar with diesels. I owned a 1971 240Z in my 20's, and I bought another one about a year and a half ago. I bought this Z in southern California and drove it home to northern New Mexico. The car is in decent condition, although it took a lot of tinkering to get it back here.... new plugs and a few filters along the way... but it did make it. It's been basically sitting for the last year and a half. I drive it every once in a while just to keep …
Last reply by chaztg, -
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I am having a problem with oil seeping out in spots between my head and block. At first it was very minimal and now it is more noticeable. I am debating on replacing the head gasket as the possible cause. My question is what is meant by stage 1 and stage 2 bolts in relation to the head cylinder bolts? What is the correct torque on the cylinder head bolts? My head is an E88 head and is bone stock. The previous owner who I called up recently said he replaced the head gasket when he reassembled the engine. He had a ring job and valve job done while apart. The car from what I can tell uses no oil, antifreeze, or has no drips anywhere except for the oil seeping between…
Last reply by z boy mn, -
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Ideas ? I have a 72 240z, w/ stock n42 engine/block elct. ign., headers and su carbs. the compression is about 150 across, hot, there is a small oil leak at the head above #3 cylinder but runs good. I also have a f54 block with flat tops bored .20 over newly rebuilt 10:1 comp. with coated headers and rebuilt sus carbs, everything new dist, water/oil pump, etc. Question ... HP gains would it be worth the engine swap ? lets say hypothetically that I could sell my new set up for $1500-2000 range would the money be better spent with a head gasket and triples ? with dished pistons in the old n42? would like to go turbo but am scared of the money pit and complications I …
Last reply by malibud, -
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Haines provides specs for the various distributors used on our cars. Specs include Idle degrees/RPM, upper and lower centrifugal advance specs, and upper and lower vacuum advance specs. In a recent thread it became apparent timing setting taken with a strobe varies considerably depending on whether the vacuum port was connected. Timing can be set with a strobe with the engine running or with a test light with the engine stopped. Since some of the distributors listed have a centrifugal advance effective at idle speed, I began to wonder just what is the appropriate method for setting timing. The factory service manual is less than explicit on the matter. I constructed a spr…
Last reply by beermanpete, -
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To start with the car is a '71 "Z" with 280ZX running gear, motor, 5-speed, R200. I don't know what bearing is installed. Motor runs fine the car won't go into gear, but did shift a year ago when last ran. Before installing the slave I moved the fork back and forth to ensure the bearing wasn't froze up. Changed the master and slave (NAPA), still nothing. Fluid flows from the slave so that tells me there's fluid all the way down the line. During bleeds the pedal firms up but nothing comes out of the slave no air or fluid. Obviously there is no movement at the pushrod or fork. With everything connected I manually actuated the pushrod and can see the fuid in the mast…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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I have two 240z, one the clutch pedal is nice and soft when pressed to change gear. The other 240z, the clutch pedal is hard to press, I already changed new clutch master and slave cylinders. The transmission is a 5 speed from 280z with unknown clutch. Do you know why the pedal is hard to press? Is it because it might have a performance clutch so stiffer spring? It is almost a chore to drive. Any advice and input greatly appreciated.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 3 replies
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Early in the restoration of my 71 240, I took the head and block to a reputable engine machine shop and they milled enough off both to true them up. Now the body's done and I'm back to the motor, I am hearing that there is very little margin for milling on these engines. By the fit of the front timing cover, I figure 12 thou. was taken off the block, but I have no idea on the head. Can anyone advise me how to tell if the head is too thin? I know I can get spacers for the cam towers, but have no idea how to determine the number and thickness I should use, if any at all. And finally, assuming it all goes together, does anyone see any reason to employ the old hot-rodder…
Last reply by madkaw, -
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I dropped my front crossmember to find I had 2 different engine mounts. Is one wrong or from a different model? Or a no-name engine mount? The one on the left looks correct.
Last reply by Ptero,
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