Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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I have been storing my early 260Z transmission since the car was theft recovered in 1982. I am offering this transmission for free with your promise of making a small, tax-deductible donation of your choosing to the National Brain Tumor Society. There are about 86,000 miles on the tranny. Pickup in south Jersey only. Please contact me if you are interested. Fixitman
Last reply by fixitman, -
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Anyone know where you can buy a valve spring compressor? The kind where the fingers fit on either side of the lobe and the lever arm pushes down on the retainer. MSA has what I'm looking for, but it's $185.00. Thanks Guy
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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What needs to be done to head and block for this happen. I have red about notching the block,steel liners,polishing and porting,larger valves. Also the difference between 3 angle and a 5 angle valve job. Is this going to make a difference in performance.
Last reply by Hunter260Z, -
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are these compression numbers good/normal/acceptable for a freshly rebuilt motor? n42 block - resurfaced and bored .020 n47 head - resurfaced and valve job new pistons, rings, etc, but otherwise a stock build cyl 1 170 2 165 3 160 4 155 5 155 6 170 test was done on a cold engine. thanks, tony
Last reply by anthony_c, -
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Ok I am aware of the popular L28/L28ET swop, but if I want to keep the orig L26 engine is there any proven ways (not to cost prohibitive) that can noticeably increase performance (say hp & torque up by +20% ?). Only mod I have made so far are early 240z carb's..Are stroker build for L26's available/worthwhile ? Apprecaite your thoughts.
Last reply by rbates, -
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Having trouble when cranking my 260. I turn the key and it'll turn over briefly before abruptly stopping like its locking up. Does the same thing every time. I thought it could be a starter motor problem so I took it off and bench tested it, there was just over 1v volt drop while the motor was spinning which I've been told proves the starters fine? It's a brand new battery. Engine turns over fine by hand. Anyone got any ideas? Thanks, Dave.
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Hi all. I bought an E 31 a few years ago for a project, and frankly forgot I had it. What do they sell for now?
Last reply by pbarcher, -
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I bought a Ron Tyler style front diff mount to replace the front diff strap, but I cannot find the torque settings in the Datsun FSM or Haynes manual. Can anyone help? If its in one of those manuals, then it is using some name that I am not expecting -Mike
Last reply by zKars, -
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Can anyone help identify the noise coming from my 240Z type "b" 4-speed transmission. Attached is a video. As you can hear there is a rattling that slows and comes to a stop when I depress the clutch pedal. The rattle speeds up at the end of the video when I give it some throttle in neutral. The transmission also sounds a little raspy through the first couple of gears. Don't mind my high idle I still needed to tune the carbs when this video was shot. Some background: Don't know if it matters but my 5/71 was supposed to come with a type "a" 4-speed but one of the previous owner swapped it out with a type "b" for reasons I don't know. I also know the previous owners "friend…
Last reply by tlorber, -
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Hi Everyone, Been quite a while since my last post, hope everything is good. I have a question for the L-engine builders here, related to raising compression in a street L-engine to 10:1. I've read that, with flat-tops, roughly .080'' must be milled off the head. Here's my question: Can anyone offer advice on whether it's better to mill that amount off both the block and head, or either the block or the head? My curiosity is in regard to excessive milling possibly (negatively) changing combustion chamber dynamics. Anyone have experience with this? Is there a best practice that should be...well...practiced? And I suppose a fair addendum could be, is the best solutio…
Last reply by LeonV, -
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Hi everybody! It's me, the "I can't believe I did that" guy..... :stupid: Well, believe it or not, I have another "learning experience" to share. So grab a coffee and get comfy. Working on a new friend's 78z over the last few days, trying to get it ready for an "out of province inspection". Your Canucks will know what I mean. When moving a car to new province, everything has to work, and no rust holes or no insurance. Quite a challenge for most Z's, this one is no different. While doing a million other things, we decided to investigate a small engine "rattle" that happens under any amount of power "on" application. Not good. Bad bearing, slap happy piston, loose valve…
Last reply by chaztg, -
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Hello, kind folks of CZC, long time lurker here! Normally I can figure out my issues through the vast information already here but this is the first problem I came across that I feel the need to post and get some more direct answers. The car cold starts every single time and runs from anywhere to 30 seconds to 2 minutes. The RPMs bounce from around 750 to 1,000 until it puts up a fight to stay alive and then stalls out. Very occasionally white vapors will pour out the carbs trying to crank her right back up. After that I will have to wait about 5 minutes for it to crank back up. Now the problem first arose with some bucking on the highway, normally around in the 2,000 to…
Last reply by Captain Obvious,
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