Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,574 topics in this forum
-
- 20 replies
- 3.4k views
Another timing/tuning question for you guys/gals: I have a 72 240z with a completely stock engine setup, SUs, points ignition, etc. I rebuilt the SUs with the guidance of the Ztherapy video, and tuned it with the FSM I have. I also checked the gap of the ignition, installed new plugs and points. The car runs fantastic at idle, it is smooth and level. I've got it set at 800-900 rpm there. The car is good if you punch it and accelerate up to 3000 rpm. I can easily get it to squeal the tires if I wanted. It drives great between 0-60 mph. However, once I get it to 3-3200 rpm in neutral or under load the car will no longer accelerate and start to stumble and pop. Once I dece…
Last reply by John Coffey, -
-
- 4 replies
- 1.1k views
I have read all the posts I can find on this site, and the manual for this answer. Some are close, but maybe not exactly my problem. My newly acquired 78 280Z has a problem where at around 3000 rpms, the tach starts to jump wildly. At the same time, I detect that the engine is either missing or starving of gas. Voltmeter does not change. This problem has only just started to show itself recently. It starts up great, and idles smoothly, so I don't see this happening at all driving ranges either. Slower speeds I have not seen it yet. 1 more observation, the rotor seems to have some play in it when I checked the cap and rotor. Like I can wiggle it maybe an 8th of an inch or…
Last reply by txvepr, -
- 6 replies
- 1.2k views
I am doing an auto to manual tranny swap on a 260. I am looking for details on the bracket where the hard and soft lines meet for the clutch slave cylinder. I dug through microfice and got the OEM parts for the slave cyl clutch line (see attachments). And, routed a hard line for the clutch based on pics I found. But, I have not been able to find details of the bracket where the hard and soft lines for the clutch are secured. Does anyone have a pic or a link to a pic that shows the bracket on the subframe? I have an idea of what might work. But, I'd like to see the OEM bracket. Maybe I can save a few hours of work instead of reinventing the 40 yr old proverbial wheel.
Last reply by Captain_Zeros, -
- 5 replies
- 1.1k views
Ok guys, I'm afraid this officially falls into the "stupid question" category, but can someone please clarify the correct oil fill for a manual trans ('73, B-type)? I've searched this site (via Google for better results) and consulted my FSM but I swear it has a typo or something: it says "1.6L; 2-3/8 US pt; 2-3/4 Imp pt" First of all, 1.6L does not equal 2-3/8 US pt, it's 3-3/8. And although it is close to 2-3/4 Imp pt, that's not quite right either. Second, "liter" isn't spelled out like in the differential section, it has a funny-looking script L instead. Does this mean some unit other than liters? I just want to know whether 1.6L or 2-3/8 pt is correct. I'm using th…
Last reply by bacarl, -
- 5 replies
- 1.2k views
I have a 1971 240z and unfortunately recently discovered it has little to no compression in cylinder 6. I live in a remote area of Georgia and there are not any Datsun spec nearby. So instead of rebuilding my engine I am thinking of buying a rebuilt motor. I have seen a few places on the internet and am wondering if anyone has any suggestions. I have spoke with Datsunpartsllc, Rebello and a few others. I'm sure I want to change to 2.8 liter block and maybe a performance cam. I don't want a racing engine but something with good power and reliability.My current engine is pretty stock except for headers,an electric fuel pump and smog equip removed. I would eventually like to…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
- 24 replies
- 5.7k views
Hello all , hoping for a little help from those who have installed Oem bushings . I removed all the old and now have the bushing pressed in at work one one side , but what do I do about pressing the lip over on the backside of the bar like it was from the factory . Any tips from those who have done it . Thanks Chris
Last reply by GreenZZZ, -
- 7 replies
- 1.4k views
So I have the opportunity to pick up a 5spd transmission fairly cheaply (~$100) but the output shaft housing appears to be slightly crushed. Is it worth my time (and $$) to purchase this with intentions of rebuilding it & putting it into my '72 240z? My concern is if the piece is available, and what my odds are of actually having a functioning (and non-leaking) transmission. Does anyone have this piece & willing to sell it?
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 26 replies
- 12.3k views
The choke cable that attaches to the front carburetor is not returning to where it should after the choke is pulled back and pushed forward again. I tried lubricating all of the joints that the cable triggers on the front carburetor, but it still isn't fully returning to normal; this causes the car to idle higher than it should and will flood the car when it's turned off(unless I open up the hood and push the lever back to normal). Anyone know how I can fix this issue?
Last reply by beermanpete, -
- 5 replies
- 2k views
Getting closer to getting the car on the road, put 4 miles on her and heard a bad rotational sound coming from the rear end. My first thought was that it could be the diff. however i had excess heat on the wheel on passenger side.. must be a wheel bearing. Unbolted the half shaft from the stub axle and this is what i found. This is not right, correct? There was not a axle nut holding the flange on but just this nut, lock washer and a couple flat washers screwed into the axle. Anyone have a direction i can take to source a stub axle? Thanks
Last reply by Robin, -
- 3 replies
- 3k views
trying to set valve lash. a couple of things: 1. can't get one valve (exhaust) lashed wider than .007 (trying for .010); can this be resolved by anything other than replacing with a smaller lash pad? doesn't this seems like a strange problem; how does the previous owner get all but one valve right? 2. i believe i have a schneider stage iii cam - is anywhere on the 180 degrees of the heel of the cam "heel" is ok to set the lash? does it matter if its not TDC, or the lobe center isnt pointing towards the sky? The reason i ask is that it feels like maybe the lash is changing even when i am on the 180 degree heel arc...is that possible? 3. most importantly, how do i repl…
Last reply by fastd, -
- 5 replies
- 1.3k views
Last year I rebuilt my carbs with a ZTherepy kit and couldn't be happier with the results, very high quality product and informative video. My vacuum gauge is reading a steady 19 at idle and the car performs well and my plugs look good (not rich nor lean). The main issue I've had is that when I adjust the SU's to allow for the pin lift test to work (slight RPM increase then return to normal), I need to richen the mixture so much I get a big cloud of black smoke out the exhaust and the vacuum gauge lowers to approximately 12-13 and the engine runs rough. I recently removed my emissions gear (smog pump, dashpots, etc.) and closed off all of the vacuum ports to ensure I d…
Last reply by Jarvo2, -
- 1 reply
- 1k views
Hello, I own a 71 240z and the L24 is in need of a rebuild. As luck would have it, I came across a 1984 maxima at a junkyard that had the high quench N47 head. Since this head had many of the things I would need to do to the e88 (steel valve seats, high quench design for detonation resistance, EFI notches, etc) that it would be a better starting point. Since L24 builds have fallen out of fashion there isnt much info on building them specifically. While researching i came across HS30-H's information on a High Po L24 that was slated to be used in a high performance model S30 that was never released. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-zcar-discussion/25575-datsun-240z-…
Last reply by s30zgt,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
Yarb
