Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,574 topics in this forum
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- 10 replies
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hello z forum,I am a owner of a 77 280z. I have pretty much had it with the existing engine so I've decided to either rebuild it or buy a junker and rebuild it. Can anyone point me in the right direction into rebuilding the z engine. thx:cry::ogre:
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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- 6 replies
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I have a 78z that the grinds when shifting from first to second and then from second to third. It works ok if I shift slow but if shift fast or high RPMs I get grinding. So I want to replace the transmission but not sure which one to go with. Should I go with the Nissan close ratio transmisson from 81 to 83 or the Borg Warner T5? I would appreciate any input.
Last reply by Carl Beck, -
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I know that there are many posts on the topic of running lean and the fuel system. Just a quick note again to let everyone know that I am an extremely novice mechanic. I know that most of this stuff is in the FSM but when I read for the first time it might as well be in spanish. With a little help from this group and the FSM I can usually figure things out. So bare with me. I have had a little help in this area previously but could use a little refresher. I just recently completed dropping my tank and coating. Tank had some rust issues. Initial question, my car seems to idle best at 1000 rpms not 800. I have played around a little with the TPS. I know that the FS…
Last reply by bhermes, -
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Hi guys, I'm new here and this is my first project (I'm learning as I go and have no background on mechanic or anything like that), so i probably going to have lot of questions. My first question is I got a 280z, and after I remove the value cover, I saw the engine as attached in the picture, and the inside of the value cover was dirty as well. I was wondering what's the best solution to clean it myself instead of sending it to someone else to do it (I'm trying to do everything by myself as much as possible).
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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I am running triple Webers being fed by the front outlet on a stock 240 fuel rail. The rear outlet currently sports a short stub of fuel line closed off by a bolt held in by a hose clamp. Yes, it works but it just seems a little ham-fisted. I'm looking for a feng shui solution here, guys. Can anyone think of a more elegant, non-destructive way to close off that unneeded outlet? Thanks!
Last reply by Mike W, -
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Posted this over at hybrid too. Mostly a lot of snarky comments from ****head n chief Tony D. I had my P90 machine 15 thousandths but the head was warped more than that, so they heated and straightened it. They told me the cam spun fine, which it does to a certain degree. I have read that the cam should spin with 2 fingers about 360 degrees with minimal effort. With mine torqued to 12 ft lbs. it spins about 300 degrees but is tighter then this finger spin everyone talks about and for about 20% of the rotation it is even tighter. It never doesn't spin. I am convinced the shop did not machine the top of the block after all of this. I ran it over to another machine sh…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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Hi, so I am about to embark on an engine rebuild and am planning to get a cam regrind. I have an l28 with an n47 head and roundtop su's. I have 2 questions. 1.) I heard the e88 and e33 heads had cams that were more suited to being reground, is this true? Is the n47 cam ok to get reground? 2.) Does anybody have experience with any cam grinders in the bay area? Or if not is delta cams good? Thanks!
Last reply by EuroDat, -
- 18 replies
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What works: - Idles smooth - If gradually accelerating, the engine runs smooth throughout the entire power-band with no issues Problem: - During idle, if pressing gas pedal all the way down suddenly, it will rev up to about 3500rpm, backfires and surges, and the rpm will drop to about 2500rpm and rev back up at 3500rpm and keep repeating as long as it's at WOT. Does this sound familiar to anyone?
Last reply by Wade Nelson, -
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I've been searching and got a little frustrated so I'm going to ask directly. I am still a little new to S-30 ownership -sorry. I am planning to rebuild my differential. The bearings are very noisy and I have it out so now's a good time. I thought that it was an R-180 but I have confirmed that it is an R-200. Would you expect to see that on a '76 280 with a 4spd?
Last reply by EuroDat, -
- 11 replies
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Hi guys.....just wonder if the above is possible. I'm trying to save myself some time and have a running car whilst building another motor on the side. I've managed to damage a part of the valve stem retainer clip and just want to replace the top valve spring cap and the retainer clip. Any idea of there is a way of being able to do this whilst the cam is still on the head and the head is still on the block? Thanks.
Last reply by EuroDat, -
- 8 replies
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Over my winter break I was planning on redoing the engine bay in my 240z. To me this included: 1. Repainting the firewall and inner fender wells 2. New rubber pieces all around 3. New exhaust manifold gasket 4. Repaint the engine block 5. Pull of the entire carb assembly and clean it up 6. Send of the parts needed to be zinc plated (not necessary in this order) The engine bay as of now is very clean and original. No rust worries and the car runs great with the SUs on it. I'm not planning on pulling the engine, rather pull everything off of it and do a light and period correct restoration. The engine has been tuned up and adjusted, so I didn't want to go very d…
Last reply by Hank240, -
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Is it possible to remove the oil pan on a 280Z without removing the engine. I seem to have a slight leak and want to replace the gasket. Thanks. Riq
Last reply by MotoManMike,
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