Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,574 topics in this forum
-
- 20 replies
- 3.1k views
Hi Everyone, I'm driving an early '73 240 with the original engine. Its dual carb'd, I'm not positive which brand - but I know they aren't stock. When I bought it in July, it did 0-60mph in about 8.5 seconds, which is a little slow, but that probably had more to do with my driving skill, and got to top speed almost too easily. Now its 0-60 times seem awful and it has a rough time getting past 85mph. I put some high performance injector/carb cleaner in and it seems to run a little better, but not like it did. Also, I don't know a lot about idle speeds, but I know that most cars run idle at 600-1000rpm, except those that are modified for high performance, and may behave odd…
Last reply by ninjazombiemaster, -
-
- 16 replies
- 2.9k views
I dropped my trans in my 240 to replace the rear main and discovered that my flywheel needs to be replaced. Searching the internet, I have found resurfaced flywheels, factory replacement flywheels and performance flywheels. My question is which one should I buy? The car has a built L26 and a 4 speed which I am thinking on swapping for a 5 speed. Also, what clutch should I use.... the Centerforce clutch i put in years ago still looks good And I need to do this on a limited budget...
Last reply by 73 240Z Man, -
- 11 replies
- 2.3k views
I'll start by saying I am a huge fan of mechanical gauges, and always hold the electrical gauge readings suspect. I will also say that having the mechanical pressure gauges (fuel and oil anyway) in the car with me will not happen, a tubing failure or broken bourdon tube can cause a mess on an oil gauge and a blow torch on an illuminated fuel gauge. So earlier this year I put a cowl induction scoop on my damaged hood to forever rid myself of the vapor locking problems with the 240. I don't really like the hood as much as the stock look (which I love) but it did the trick. So now I have my mechanical water temp and oil pressure installed, waiting on the third cup to add t…
Last reply by 5thhorsemann, -
- 1 follower
- 14 replies
- 5.6k views
Last weekend i removed the engine/tranny from the car and im swapping 77 5 speed. BUT they seem to have different kind of release bearings. Smaller is from 5 speed and bigger from 4 speed. Will the 5 speed bearing work fine with L24 clutch? I have new exedy clutch kit for 240z...
Last reply by Diseazd, -
- 4 replies
- 2k views
Rebuilding an L28 and I chipped off a piece of the damper closest to the crank. Can I have my machinist repair and rebalance this damper or will I need to look for a new one? Thanks.
Last reply by EuroDat, -
- 9 replies
- 3.1k views
My car is hard starting, especially when cold, but seems to run fine a minute or so after I get it started. The other day I was going to do some work on a fuel line and when I went to depressurize the system, there wan't any pressure. Does it sound like my fuel pressure regulator could be bad allowing fuel to too easily run back to the gas tank and not maintaining pressure in the system? I don't know where else the pressure would be "leaking" to since I don't smell gas or see any actual leaks. Thanks Gary
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 5 replies
- 1.7k views
just curious about what im working with. the engine work was pre-me, wondering if its necessary for premium fuel, the previous owners mechanic said it was a big cam, and while it sounds mean with the header and big exhaust but i dont feel it. also, ive noticed a bunch of you using 20w50 oil, is there a reason why so heavy a weight? im in hawaii so i dont have to worry about starting under 60 degress:) but i dont want to ruin my engine with overly thick oil.
Last reply by EuroDat, -
- 14 replies
- 2.5k views
Hey Guys! I know there are some differing opinions on engine mods and swaps, so I wanted to make a thread and possibly a poll on the subject. -At what point would you say a Z is no longer a Z - internally?.. Is it no longer a 240z if you put a Chevy 350 in it? -What engines do you find work best in your Z's? Basically that sort of stuff... I'll start. Currently, my 240 has its original engine, is at nearly 110k miles and still runs pretty good. I feel like it isn't a 240z at heart with another engine, however I would not be opposed to replacing it with an LS1 engine or something of the likes one day, because I'm less attached to the numbers themselves than the car itself…
Last reply by grannyknot, -
- 6 replies
- 1.3k views
Following up on two threads from the past few months: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread46932.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread46662.html Quick Recap: Transmission grinds when I start to put it in gear. I've replaced: - Replaced Clutch Master Cylinder - Replaced Clutch Slave Cylinder - Replaced Entire Clutch Kit - Bled System Ensured proper travel at the Slave Cylinder. Ensured the Master Clinder is fully extended. If I put it in gear and start it (with a push) I can go around the block in gear, just can't shift (obviously). So I'm totally out of ideas. I can't imagine why else the clutch wouldn't engage. The only saving grace is that I'm swapping…
Last reply by ksbeta, -
- 19 replies
- 6.4k views
I realize that this is one of those posts that is probably going to generate more questions than answers. I have an S30 with a 5-speed transmission. What I am trying to determine is the distance that the Clutch fork should move when the clutch is pushed in. I don't have any info on the tranny other than from the pictures that I am attaching here. The problem that I am having is that the clutch is not disengaging the transmission. I measure the throw on the fork and it only moves 11mm, which looks to be only about have the distance that it could travel. I understand that there are numbers on the top of the bell housing that would tell me the exact tranny model, bu…
Last reply by Carl Beck, -
- 4 replies
- 1.7k views
Well I finally got lucky and got a good cylinder head back from the shop with a new valve job. The cam checked out to be ok. I did not have them resurface the rockers arms, is this a big deal?:stupid: I have the "How to Rebuild your OHC Datsun Engine" and plan on freshening up on the cylinder head section this evening. The shop had to take 15 thousandths off the head, which I believe puts you right on the edge of needing shims, but they felt it may have been milled before, they don't know how much. How should I go about ordering cam tower shims? Any and all advice would be great.
Last reply by LeonV, -
- 3 replies
- 1.8k views
Looking for a good reasonably priced shop in the Atlanta area to overhaul my 72 z engine.
Last reply by Carl Beck,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
