Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,574 topics in this forum
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- 7 replies
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Hello, It might be more appropriate to put this under "Parts Swapping," but I'll let you all be the judge: My '71 has the stock L24 blocked matted to a Roadster 5-Speed. I'm going to replace the clutch. Two Questions: 1) I obtained (free) a 280z clutch disc/ pressure plate. Can this setup be used with this block/transmission? 2) Throwout bearing: Would I need to find the appropraite bearing for a Roadster Transmission? I assume this differs from the 240z bearing (?) Thank you!
Last reply by ksbeta, -
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I don't know if this is from the factory or not. When I had my carbs off I could blow air back to the tank from the fuel rail with the carb ports capped so I know its not full obstructed. Is anyone else's rail like this on the return side? I have looked at pics of rails on Ebay and none of them have this.
Last reply by Hardway, -
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Just took the Z for its first drive since installing the new engine/rebuilt transmission. THe shifter is incredibly stiff when I try to take it out of first gear. If I just putt around barely revving it, when I go from first to second it is hard to get it to come out of gear. If I rev it up and then try to go from first to second, it is VERY hard to get it out of first gear. All other gears are getting better as I drive it. The whole transmission was very hard to shift at first. But seems to be loosening up the more I drive it. I am assuming that this is normal for a new transmission. I have a thought that this may just be a clutch adjustment. I just ball parked…
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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I've got the front part of my 1973's engine torn apart and I am wondering if anyone out there knows of anything that will dissolve the residual pieces of old gasket that seem to have atomically bonded with the timing cover and various other parts. Obviously, I'd need something that won't hurt aluminum. Any ideas?
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
- 4 replies
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Gang: Time to call on the engine building experts Finally got to the stage of starting the L28 in a very long term restoration project today. 71 240. Well it runs great, but with just about no oil pressure. oh god, what have i done.... So, the facts: Engine Fresh rebuild, top and bottom. Fresh everything. Including new oil pump. L28 flat tops, F54 block. E31 head, larger valves, stage 3'ish cam, nothing radical. Engine was assembled on stand 15 months ago, and oil pump run with drill and shaft to confirm prime and oil to the head. Everything is great. Engine put in car, but never started until today. Problem: Runs great, but oil pressure on stock gauge was …
Last reply by Diseazd, -
- 4 replies
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well today i was putting my z back together. to go to the shop and when i first got into it the chain was tight and now there is some slack on the drivers side of the chain i moved the cam to install the rockers i lost and i was going to ajust the rockers when i noticed that there was some slack now in the chain. what could cause this?
Last reply by silvey19k, -
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Just wanted to give everyone an update on my project and an FYI. I am following Joseph Demer's website on replacing the vent hoses in my '72 240z. On his site he lists the 1/2" ID hose that runs from the vent tank to the driver side of the gas tank needs to be 4ft long. I am not sure if there is some big difference between a '70 240z and a '72 but I ordered 5ft online as no one nearby carries it thus paying a premium for it. I went to install it and the hose is a 1ft too short meaning that I really need 6ft just like all the other hoses. I went ahead and ordered 8ft just to be on the safe side. I threw my old hose away once I got out of the car because it smelled s…
Last reply by bpilati, -
cam question
by 280m- 2 replies
- 1k views
Yes I recently acquired p90a head with a new cam, I was wondering if i can pull the cam out and put it in my freshly rebuilt n47 head.
Last reply by Carl Beck, -
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ok this cam tower bolt is broken and i have ran it with no problem just not on the road or over 2500. i know these are more for alignment the anythig so is it ok to run it as is or should i have this nasty thing removed. im getting out of the army and running short on time and tools. i might have a long trip to ohio in the near coming winter.
Last reply by silvey19k, -
- 6 replies
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Long story short. I hauled my 83 turbo long block to Austin for a friend to rebuild in March. He has family problems so I am headed back to Austin on the 1st to pick it up. I am considering rebuilding the engine myself when I get it back. Naturally I will have the block, rods, pistons, crank, and head taken to a shop to be inspected. I have never rebuilt an engine myself before, but have watched it done in person and many Saturdays on Spike TV's powerblock. My question is this. How hard is it to do with the right tools, patience and time? Its not like I can't afford to have someone do it, but I feel this would be my next "step" in moving my skills forward and my a…
Last reply by Ben's Z, -
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What is the purpose of this plate and will it affect my installing a new sway bar? It just seems to be bolted there, for protection? The Suspension Techniques 52100 sway bars are thicker and there is maybe 2mm clearance between the top of this _____ plate.
Last reply by 30 Ounce, -
- 8 replies
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Always had slight pre-ignition, even with premium, (91 octane), fuel. Had this problem since doing a stroker upgrade to my Z, which increased compression. Did some research and determined I should look at my distributor advance. It was one of the few things I didn't look at when rebuilding the car. I opened-up the distributor, and found the 40 year old centrifigal advance spring was completely stretched-out. (See Pics). Lack of spring force was allowing the centrifugal advance to max-out at between 1400-1500 rpm's! Pic 1: Stretched springs in Distributor. Pic 2: New vs. Old spring. I cleaned everything up and replaced the springs with new parts having equi…
Last reply by Oiluj,
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