Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,574 topics in this forum
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- 7 replies
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So today was maintenance day on my Z. It has been running a little sluggish. My first job was to replace the fram 3G filter located near the tank. I think this was the main culprit. Also the car has been running hot. My thought was that since so much of the EFI system relies on temp reading I would do some maintenance on the cooling system. It has never been flushed since I have owned the car. Flushing whent smooth, nothing unexpected. I also inspected the thermostat and to my surprise someone in the past had installed it upside down! On to the oil change: This was easy as usual, except I noted that the oil filter was not tight, causing a small oil leak. (no one to blame…
Last reply by grantf, -
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My 240z is having a bad week, i have to really wank the shifter to get it on reverse, it has original tranny. Is there anything i can do about it or is it going broken all the way? When it engages, it reverses as usual. It takes around 30 secs to minute to engage it. I do have 5 speed on the way here, but it takes at least 4 more weeks.
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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Hi everyone, I need some help with determining the correct oil pan. I pulled the oil pan off the engine from my car which was built in 69. It has been repaired on some point so I thought I would pull the pan off my spare engine and use it instead. The engine is from a late 1970 car. After two hours of hoisting the engine and putting it on a stand, and removing the oil pan I discovered it was completely different. Did the early cars have different oil pans? Can I use the newer one? The picture of oil pans from Z Car Source look just like the one from the newer engine. Maybe it doesn't even matter. Thanks for your help. Carl
Last reply by JonnyRock, -
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Hi all. I've used the search function;) Bits below are what i've collected so are fixed(ish). I'm 100% going to use the original block in my car(09/1970). 4.44 subaru plated LSD Nisaan 200sx gearbox(C type) with shortshift Mallory unilite with hyfire ignition-cdi 40mm webbers Performance damper Piper 286 cam, 290 duration, I can't remember the full specs off hand but can dig them out. A set of 240z +1mm pistons new rockers etc I've got a 280zx engine in bits(f54 flat top/p90 head), exhaust will be a 6-2-1 with 1 5/8" primaries. I want a slightly 'cammy' engine, thats why i've gone for the cam and 40mm carbs to work with it. 150-160bhp at the wheels would be nice. What …
Last reply by Jason240z, -
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There are two openings, one over the other I think, in the firewall between the heater connections and a relay. Which openings is for the choke cables? I haven't been able to find a clear photo of the firewall that the shows the choke cables and firewall grommet. Thanks, Fixitman
Last reply by 240260280z, -
- 5 replies
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Somewhere on the web there is a list of all the best possible combinations for blocks, heads, pistons etc from different years of Zs. I know I've seen it and I thought I bookmarked it but now I can't find it. Anyone know of the chart I'm talking about? Thanks, Chris
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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Does anyone know where to get a new fuel filler tee from, its the tee that attaches to the filler neck, couldn't see any at MSA or Black dragon.
Last reply by jfa.series1, -
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My header install project has turned in to a "while you are at it" marathon. My car still had its original PCV hose and it was in a pretty sad state. Upon removing it I found lot of little bit black dry flakes and bits in the hose. Upon further inspection I dug out quite a bit of gas/oil gun from the PCV tube on the engine. I sprayed carb cleaner to brake it up and then used my screwdriver to rake it out. Once I got all I could I used my shop vac to suck out what else might have been loose. Is this normal for these cars? I plan on replaceing the PCV hose and PCV valve. Should I be looking at anything else while I am there?
Last reply by Hardway, -
- 5 replies
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I noticed the slack side of the timing chain would slap against the guide while remotely cranking the engine on and off to adjust the valves. The slack is removed while continuing to turn the crankshaft. The cam sprocket is set to timing mark #3 and I did a slack measurement test and there was just under 5 degrees of slack. Is this slapping of the chain against the guide on the slack side "normal" on "Z's'" when cranking the starter on & off in short intervals? I'm asking this because someone else who is a mechanic witnessed this and said that didn't seem right but he was not familiar with older "Z's"
Last reply by AZ260Z, -
- 4 replies
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I intended on leaving an 1/8" sticking out and let that plate and the flywheel pull it down to mate with them. When I got through installing the main caps this is what I had, it went beyond the block surface. Will this be problem? Now would be a good time to correct it IMOP. Thanks for any replies.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
73 Auto removed 1 2 3
by Diseazd- 29 replies
- 6.6k views
I just pulled my 73 auto transmission today. A couple questions.....1) I unplugged the 4 wires from the passenger side of the auto-t .......which wires do I splice together to over-come the car thinking it's in park to start? 2 wires were male ( both red and black) and 2 were female. 2) I plan to install a 77 five speed. Does that require any cutting. Also, I removed the shifter plate on the console and unbolted the shifter assembly. Now what do I use for a plate to cover the inner and outter shift boot for the manual shifter? 3) The radiator had two tranny fluid lines going into the bottom of the radiator. I removed the lines.......Do I have to plug those inlets? I assum…
Last reply by Diseazd, -
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Well, what started out as the perfect Sunday of wrenching on the Z in 75 degree weather didn't end up so well. My plan was to adjust the valve clearances on my '78 280z today and here is what I found when I pulled the valve cover off: [ATTACH=CONFIG]53851[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]53852[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]53853[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]53854[/ATTACH] The photos are slightly out of order, but the worst is toward the rear of the engine, where there was funk built up along the sides of the lobe (where the rocker doesn't make contact) and some contact areas were also coarse to the touch. I went ahead and did the adjustment anyway and to add insult to injury, they still tick.…
Last reply by johnny haywire,
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