Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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I don't know much about the history of my motor except, that the numbers match & seems to run really well. A quick check of my compression with a cheap (auto parts store tester) revealed: 130 x all 6 cyls. (Actually 1 cyl was about 128). The odometer reads 109,k I'm assuming the motor was rebuilt at some point but don't really know. Are these compression readings acceptable for a stock motor?
Last reply by Wally, -
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One of the issues I constantly deal with during a restoration is a gummed up fuel system. Not unusual that it ends up with new hard lines and/or a new fuel tank when things are just too far gone. I try to restore the existing lines and tank when ever possible, but it can be a time consuming and often fruitless endeavor in the end. Yesterday I came up with a new method that allowed me to save both a tank and the main fuel line from replacement. Sometimes it’s rust in the tank, sometimes it’s old fuel that has turned to solid or semi solid black tar or even hard crystals mixed with that tar. In yesterdays case, it was semi solid black tar. I have 11292…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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when i'm reinstalling my fuel pump after rebuild is there a need to go over or under a cam in the block or do you push it straight in. i'm asking because it's not feeding fuel to the carbs and i don't believe that the pump valves are installed incorrectly. any help is appreciated.
Last reply by swflaz, -
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Ok, working on another early Z today and find the worst case of crooked engine mount I’ve ever seen. Mostly I want to know if any one else has noticed this and actually found the reason. I’ve seen it on several cars, all “early”. 70-71. Yes I know they vastly strengthened the later ones, maybe starting in 74 with bracing across or between the two side pieces, so it must have been noticed by Nissan. Feels like its in the time line of the early cars that had the diffs mounted too far forward, I suppose with age, the bushings in the diff and trans all get weak and the engine tends to move forward. But this one is bad. Mind you the rust on this one is pr…
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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The radiator cap of the Champion 3 row radiator is really worn. Would this 16lbs Stant Cap work and help lowering the temperature? https://www.amazon.com/Stant-10230-Radiator-Cap/dp/B000B8LKVY/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Stant+radiator+cap&qid=1634738898&qsid=135-7717209-6316309&sr=8-2&sres=B000B8LKZ0%2CB000B8LKVY%2CB000B8N3G4%2CB000C846LY%2CB00180JSSQ%2CB000B8LKYQ%2CB000E3ZLM0%2CB00180JSP4%2CB000C8227E%2CB000B8JUGQ%2CB000C808SE%2CB000B8JUG6%2CB000B8N3GE%2CB000B8N3J6%2CB000C808T8%2CB000C8224M&srpt=ENGINE_COMPONENT_CAP The one that my radiator currently carries is labeled 1.1
Last reply by Johnny wick, -
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I ran a compression check of the L28 engine and found that it ranged from 125-145 psi. The manual indicates a compression ratio of 8.3:1, but I could not find anywhere what the psi value should be. Is what I found with my compression gauge normal or is it low?
Last reply by Pop's Z, -
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if anyone has a lead, pm me. it's for the early a type 5 speed 240z with the 3,90 diff. only thing i am missing is the driveshaft ( i'm not talking about the half shafts ! ). its bolted on 2 sides with the slide piece in the middle. Bart
Last reply by bartsscooterservice, -
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Came across this guy's youtube channel and he seems to know his stuff. There are other good videos but here's a general one that might be worth watching.
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
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Progress slowly continues on our resurrection project. The driveshaft is now removed and I would like to replace the u-joints. 40+ year old car that has not been on the road for over 20 years. The joints are staked in and the repair manual says entire propeller shaft must be changed. I have found 2 different catalog listings for u joints with different cap diameters, one of which comes with no hardware, clips-the other comes with clips. I have not yet accurately measured the existing u joints for size yet but looking for some input from the more experienced Z experts here. The Spicer brand u joints for the drive axles installed perfectly, just hoping to be able to d…
Last reply by One Way, -
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Trying to replace the u-joints in my ‘72 240z (r180), and the moog 393 replacements aren’t fitting in correctly to allow for the retaining clips to seat fully. Decided to measure the new vs old ujoints and the new ones are ~2 mm bigger Than the ones I took off. Any advice on what else to try? The caps are the right size, the body just seems to wide. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by adivin, -
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Hi all, My restoration finished and with it my refreshed L28 picked up a Steve Bonk cam and a full head port and polish with intake matching by Reg Samuru. The cam has a great tone and idle and winds right up fast. I definitely notice more grunt mid range (where I drive) and overall am very pleased with it. The head was fully ported - and I do mean ported. Intake and exhaust had a lot of metal taken out an my intake was port matched, including locator pins on the head. Overall it is flowing more air, as measured by the increases in jet sizes to maintain nice AFRs (13.5 ish). There are lots of options out there but do consider reaching out to Steve in Chicagoland…
Last reply by Terrapin Z, -
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Hello to all. 18 months into my little 19500 project car and I'm working on an engine. Series 1 car was purchased with a swapped out, non operable and likely useless L-26 engine installed. I bought a 73 L-24 engine for not much money on ebay from a guy in the midwest who raced em years ago, expecting to use it for parts. Seemed to be in good shape at first but pressure tested and found gaping corrosion hole in the head rendering that part useless. I then looked around and found a slightly pricey, complete E-31 head that had never been done, and is really flat. Head, block and crank are now at the machine shop and my guy is looking for the bigger valves, new pistons etc. H…
Last reply by ToolBoy,
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