Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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I took the engine appart planning on replacing seals and honing the cylinders since i bought the engine alone. Couple of things got in the middle and florida weather did his thing. Is it salvageable by honing only or is boring needed? I plan on going to a machine shop with him today but i dont know what to expect. In case of boring does it mean that new pistons are required?
Last reply by 280z5368, -
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Due to excessive wear of the bores in the cam towers, I am in the process of making and inserting bronze bearing inserts. So far, my search for a machine shop capable of align boring them has turned up one shop in Ohio, JCM Machine and Coatings. I am in Virginia. Though I have done it before, I am not delighted by the idea of shipping my head off somewhere. I'd much rather see their operation, look the man in the eye, and so on. Does anyone know of a shop that can do this work (and do it brilliantly!) - anywhere, but local would be ideal?
Last reply by ETI4K, -
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Been a while. Anyway I want to temporarily drive with the vacuum hose to the modulator clamped off. It's a stock 3-speed AT. Engine is modded 280Z. I'm used to shifting manually but concerned by stuff I read. Will it hurt anything? Any tips on driving and shifting without it? Only driving 20 miles or less.
Last reply by Stanley, -
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I started this question in another thread but instead of taking over that thread, I thought it best to start a separate one. I have a '74 260z with an engine and drivetrain from a 280z or 280zx. The transmission is a wide ratio FS5W71B. The transmission would slip out of 3rd and sometimes 4th gear when I let up on the gas. I replaced the transmission fluid with Red-Line MT-90 and replaced the 3 ball bearings and springs (detent springs 32831N). There does not seem to be anything interfering with the shifter and the transmission seems to go fully into gear. I test drove the car today and the problem seems to persist. According to the service manual, after e…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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I recently picked up a non-running ’73 240Z with 160k miles that was sitting for years. The original engine has been pulled and disassembled and now I’m trying to come up with a rebuild plan for it. I know that the cheapest way to increase power is to buy and swap in an L28, but for right now I want to rebuild and get the original engine running with possibly some performance improvements. Generally I would want to reuse the original block, rods, and crank. Primary use would be street driving with an occasional autocross or track day. I have already acquired some round top SU’s and a ZX distributor with an E12-80 module that will be incorporated in the overhau…
Last reply by madkaw, -
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I've got an l28 that's going to the shop. Started skipping and choking. Now won't crank. And the head gasket is leaking oil . Mechanic quoted $1300. Option B I have a l28et that needs to be rebuilt. Previous owner had an oil line bust for the turbo. ( Probably messed that up) I know he blew the factory turbo. So assuming that's $3k to rebuild. Then I need a mega squirt $1,500 for ignition and tuning. But I get to keep my 4speed and rear end. Option c Just buy a LS for $900. But then I'll need a trans and rear end. So with 330-400hp in mind, idk what I should do that's best bang for your buck. Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Last reply by texasz, -
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Hi, I tested my EGR by connecting the BPT valve and later the EGR valve directly to intake vacuum (my thermal vacuum valve isn't working) and the engine almost immediately died and the EGR valve made this strange whistling noise. Any idea why this happens? The engine was at operating temp in the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTZni7rL87k
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Hi guys and gals Got my engine and tranny in but lost the mount bolts. Can anyone describe them in a manner that is can describe to a person in a fastener shop ? Thx SB
Last reply by Sailor Bob, -
I was reading this website below and wondered thoughts on "best" head. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/head.htm
Last reply by gnosez, -
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The bottom of the three bolts snapped off flush with my head as I was verifying torque. Is there much oil pressure in this area? I have a feeling there shouldn’t be too much oil flow there. My question is could I get away with a new gasket and maybe rtv ultra black and using the other two bolts until I want to drill it out. The bottom bolt in this pic Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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I'm in the process of changing out my U-joints, but i am having trouble removing the 4 bolts from the driveshaft-diff pinion, it looks like they have not been changed once in the cars life, so they are being extreamly stubborn, and to make matters worse, i can only reach them with my 1/2 crescent. How do you guys go about this?
Last reply by texasz, -
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Can anyone confirm that these are the correct valve cover bolts for a 1971 240z? The ones that came with my car were not original. These came from a slightly later engine - I believe they are from a N42 block/N42 head L-28 (which is probably from 1975 or 1976).
Last reply by jerz,
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