Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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The debate rages on but this I feel is a good bit of food for thought ..... What are your views?
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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Just doing some more component replacing, repairing, evaluating on this resurrection project. The cylinder head checks out good. Our local automotive machine shop-Bob Rabon-removed and repaired a couple of the snapped off studs I was not able to get out, cleaned the head and just had to lightly touch up the valve seats. I did not have him check for flatness on the head, but I think I will drop it off to him before I get around to reassembling the cylinder head. The rest of the components-all intact but rusted up from the many years of bad storage before I purchased the project-have been thoroughly cleaned in the soak tank, and/or the EVAP-O-RUST solution. So far so g…
Last reply by One Way, -
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A few years ago when I was looking for a 5-speed transmission for my 1976 280Z project, I searched and searched for photos of the early ("wide ratio") and later ("close ratio") versions side-by-side. I never really found any, but I did acquire one of each, and thought I'd post pictures of them for easy comparison. The main things to notice are all on the rear extension housing: The wide ratio gearbox has two exhaust hanger ears on the rear extension housing, the close ratio has only one (on the driver's side). The wide ratio has a dust collar/shroud surrounding the end of the tail piece, the close ratio does not. The close ratio box has a cover for the…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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Has anyone got any links to any good 2.7(ish) engine builds? I'm going the hard way about it(140mm rods etc) however looking forward to having something a little from the norm. I've got the last few bits on the way now so would like some interesting reading/research.
Last reply by Yamahacam, -
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I have plans to convert my 260z to FI in the near future and need to find a solution for the coolant temp sensor. I found the following adapter which looks interesting, and seems like a decent option without having to change around the thermostat housing. Has anyone here used this for their FI conversion? https://www.amazon.ca/Mishimoto-MMWHS-34-BK-Temperature-Sensor-Adapter/dp/B00860GH8A
Last reply by YZFMax, -
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Hello, I have some questions on porting the e88 head from my 240z. To give you some context I live in Germany so buying a cylinder head that flows better wont be an option and I wont hand this work over to a Professional 😄 This will be my first time porting a car head but I have ported 2 stroke cylinders countless times. My first question is: do I really need to remove the valves to port the runners or is it ok if I clean everything exceptionally well after the fact? I am also wondering what/how much meterial to remove (besides the port matching). The car is prabably getting a hotter cam a bit more compression and eventually triple 45mm weber…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Hello, I used the OZDAT engine calculator to test if I could use the ld28 crank in my l24 engine to get 2700cc. the problem is that this would only work with the shorter L20a connecting rods but I cant seeb to find those anywhere not even aftermarket from maxpeedingrods or another seller does anyone know were I could find them? Youre help would be greatly appreciated! Greetings from Germany, Elias
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Hello, I am hoping to get some help and answers. Bought a 73' 240z with a 4 speed that had no leaks (as PO claimed) It had no leaks because there was no fluid in tranny. Drained it and hardly any fluid poured out. Had some metal shavings After filling I find out there is a leak at the tail housing. I changed the seal (which was clearly damaged) with a National seal part#710324 This seal had a larger depth than the seal that it had. Had a terrible time trying to place it all the way in. Filled it up, went for a drive. Still leaking. I did some researching found another part #3771 had the same inside/outside diameter and was closer to the depth of the ripped seal.…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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As a recent project, I had a new rear plate made for between the engine and the transmission. It's laser cut out of 304 stainless, and it turned out fantastic! Just the thing for bling! Since I'm putting it on a 280, I modeled it after the later version with the triangular shaped hole instead of the earlier 240 version with the round hole in the middle. The parts fische says the manual trans 240s used P/N 30411-E3000, while everything after that used P/N 30411-A8600. Also note that the 240 version was superseded by the 280 version, so according to that documentation, they are interchangeable. Here's the new shiny stainless bling plate next to the original with t…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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does anybody retorque there cylinder head bolt after a valve adjustment?
Last reply by Racer X, -
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Hi, I read somewhere that '70 240Z must have engine block casting number "E31" (near the left engine mount), and '71 (and later) must have "P30". Someone know when exactly it change ? I have a 12/70 car (serial 17xxx) with "P30" engine block (serial 22xxx) but without engine plate on shock tower. But pretty sure it's the original one. Thank you for answers 🙂
Last reply by rcv, -
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Hello all, I have a 280z I recently got running but with some problems. Whenever I start the car there is a very loud screeching noise coming from the engine bay. I tried to detect where it is coming from but it is literally so loud that I cant even locate it. Since I cant locate it through means of sound localization I decided to do some other troubleshooting. For starters my alternator and water pump are new so I know its not either of those pulley bearings. (no ac on this car so I only have 1 belt). First I took off the fan clutch even though I didn't suspect it, and the noise still happens. After that I just took off the entire belt and the noise still happens..…
Last reply by SadZGuy,
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