Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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Guys. thoughts on this? Is it appear to be a good deal? https://www.ebay.com/itm/REMAN-S30-240Z-L24-long-block-N42-head/324296397134#shpCntId
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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- 2 followers
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While pulling the axles out of my '72 240z I noticed that the Grease Catcher (#56 below) was damaged, most likely by the bad bearings that were in there or a prior service by a former owner. I'm converting to Disc Brakes and am questioning if I truly need the piece as its no longer available and its too far damaged to bend it back into shape. Based on the image it appears that the grease catcher is used to prevent grease from entering the inside of the brake drum. Does anyone run their rear axles without the grease catcher?
Last reply by adivin, -
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Hi all, I need clarification on setting the timing on my '72 240 Z correctly. I've studied the available manuals, but am still unclear. I have changed plugs, wires, caps & rotor, points and condensor. I am using a strobe light to align the triangular pointer to the notch on the pulley. I've chosen the 2nd notch from the left - with the notches on top, looking from the front of the car. I chose this notch because the Haynes manual says that the left-most notch is TDC, and that each notch to the right of it is a 5 degrees advancement. I've marked the pointer and notch with whiteout for visibility. I have verified that I'm on the #1 compression stroke …
Last reply by madkaw, -
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My 78 280z is currently a rolling chassis and i need basically every piece on the engine bay, a guy is selling his l28 engine + transmission, driveshaft and wire harness for $750. I don't know much about these engines and how to inspect them. He says is a N42 block with N47 head in it and it has over 150k miles pulled from a car t-boned in 1995. I wanted to see what is the price for one of these engines and what checks should i make while inspecting it. Same thing for transmission and driveshaft
Last reply by AK260, -
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Greeting my 5 speed manual transmission has 3 sensors. They all leaked at the sensors’ electrical pins and plastic housing. I’ve replaced the reverse sensor to fix the annoying oil leak. Question is that the other 2 sensors don’t seem to do anything nor any electrical connect to it. These 2 sensors located toward the drive shaft. What would you do? Can I just put bolts to that 2 sensors to stop the leak? Any advert side affect to it? much appreciated regards
Last reply by 240zadmire, -
Engine Rebuild 1 2
by HDAtom- 4 followers
- 20 replies
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Hello everyone, first post! I am starting a restoration of a 1977 280z. I am interested in doing as much as the project I can at home to learn as much as I can, even if quality does not come out perfect. I am interested in rebuilding the L28 that came in my car, but I don't know the condition of it and what to really look for. The previous owner took a lot of necessary parts out like battery, fuel tank, and some other things, so I decided to just take it apart and try and figure out if anything is wrong inside the engine. I figured engines are simple (lol), fuel, air, and spark right?? It is already out and I can't do a compression test. I am trying to gauge th…
Last reply by Av8ferg, -
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I've been gone for awhile, been working on a Sunbeam Tiger I found in my neighborhood. Done with that, now back to working on my 73 240Z. Is there a source for the hose from the AB valve to the manifold? I've seen the $300 set for 70-72, not sure if the other hoses would work, and kinda pricey. Yeah, I know, what the heck am I bothering with that smog crap for anyway! ? Thanks, Ken
Last reply by KenFirch, -
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Two questions...1) How do I install this new/replacement accelerator rubber boot onto the linkage without breaking it? And 2) does the metal "collar" that is on the shaft go inside the boot or outside the boot? As you can see there is an adjusting nut at the gas pedal end of the shaft, but I've tried to loosen it without success...was afraid if I kept wrenching on it something was going to break...Also, both ends with the "cups" are plastic, and I'm sure quite brittle and unforgiving at this stage in their lives. It looks like clearly I need to remove one "cup" end to get the boot on because the small end of the rubber boot doesn't look like there is any way for it…
Last reply by AZDatsun, -
- 2 followers
- 6 replies
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hello all z members !! just 1 question , my rear main seal is weeping and in need of replacement. is nissan the best seal to buy or is there a better brand to use thanks
Last reply by kully 560, -
Hello to all. . . I just received an L24 engine a few days ago that I was intending to use for backup parts but I'm thinking it might be a better engine than the L26 that's currently still in my series 1 car. L26 was parked with the fluids in for about 18 years and I expect trouble when I get in there so I bought the L24 cheap. I tore the new L24 down yesterday and the cylinder walls look perfect as does the crank and pistons. Shop will need to confirm. Lots of carbon crap caked on everything and an inch of sludge in the pan. I'm wondering if anyone in the community that's more experienced than I (which is everyone) can tell me about these pistons. Previous owner raced…
Last reply by 240260280, -
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Wanted some insight for my future build with the L28, I plan on getting another P79 Head (Previous owner practically screwed the studs for the exhaust manifold closest to the thermostat so I have produced a lovely leak overtime with the annoying clicking sound that sounds like valve slap) The head will be sent out to be rebuilt and built by topendperformance, I do not plan on building the block (I park the car on the street, don't have tools to pull the block) but I do have the N42 Block for reference I want to get the new head fully built as possible as I want to push the most power out of building it. Also will be getting new MSA 6-1 TBC coated headers (w…
Last reply by conedodger, -
- 3 followers
- 15 replies
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So I have a grind downshifting to 2nd. My first thought is I need to replace the synchros, yet even when double clutching I still get the grind. I can drive around casually just fine but the least bit of aggression creates a grind. Thinking that when the first road salt goes down I’m gonna drop the transmission and see what is going on. Could the gear be screwed up? My question is, where is the best place to shop for parts for a Type A transmission? Plan to do a complete clutch rebuild and rear main seal while I’m in there, I just want to get the best parts so I only have to do this once. Thanks for the help
Last reply by Zed Head,
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