Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,574 topics in this forum
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- 4 followers
- 29 replies
- 3.3k views
Hi all strange problem I encountered. the engine idle, rev fine. Look at the spark plugs, 1,2,3 run rich and 4,5,6 run lean. The spark plugs of 4,5,6 looked clean compare to dark smog 1,2,3. 1,2,3 engines look like this 4,5,6 whats I have done. compression test cold: 170psi on all engine hot after 30mins idle, 180 psi on all engine new piston rings new bearings new gaskets new vacuum hoses new spark plugs, cap, spark plugs wire. All NGK brand. new alternator new ignition coil. I’ve stripped down the engine nut by nut, bolt by bolt, suspensions, bushing.... e…
Last reply by Patcon, -
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- 2 followers
- 12 replies
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Im soon to swap my clutch in my street driven 240z (L28 5speed 220hp). Has anyone used these clutches? https://www.ebay.com/itm/133090584124 //Andreas
Last reply by moelk, -
- 2 followers
- 9 replies
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Can someone explain the real world difference in engine operation using the different heat range spark plugs. How and when would you know which heat range your particular engine is wanting?
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 1 follower
- 34 replies
- 14.7k views
Our 240z's engine was just rebuilt and all the parts in the engine compartment were replaced with new ones. Before the engine was rebuilt, the temperature would almost always stay under half, even though it had a slightly blown head gasket and the original radiator. Now, for some reason, the temp is always over half way. We're confused about what the problem could be, because a new CSF radiator was installed along with a new Nissan fan clutch and a new Nissan 160 degree thermostat. Maybe the temperature sending unit could be inaccurate? If anyone has any ideas, please feel free to pitch in.
Last reply by Patcon, -
- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 454 views
I just got these inner tie rods and does the lock nut lock against the inner tie rod or the actual steering rack. When I took them off I thought it locked against the rack but now I am not sure Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by AZDatsun, -
- 4 followers
- 21 replies
- 2.2k views
I am swapping my manual trans to auto trans in my 1976 280z. I think I have all the parts but I did not pull the auto trans from the donor car so I am not sure of the parts or orientation . My problem is that after installing the trans ,the flex plate and the 2 spacers the torque converter is too far back for the flex plate bolts to reach the torque converter. I put the big spacer to the motor side of the flex plate and the washer looking spacer to the rear side of the flexplate. the flexplate teeth are set back about 1/2" into the bell housing which looks right for starter engagement but the torque converter has a about a 3/4" gap to the flexplate which is too long for …
Last reply by Yarb, -
- 1 follower
- 10 replies
- 806 views
Confirming info I found on this and my methodology . I measured about .0065 pulling in and out on the rotor assembly . Book says .0057 max . We all know how hard it is to torque these . Would you torque an older assembly the same as installing a new one if it didn’t make spec ? Trying to find my fish scale to measure that spec. I do have the slightest vibration I can see in the mirror. I’m pretty sure I redid these when I did my Wildwoods and that was 20k miles .
Last reply by madkaw, -
- 4 followers
- 16 replies
- 3.1k views
I have an early 71' and am running into the problem with the diff front mount/insulator where the only one I can source is from '72 onward which pushes my diff backwards. I've heard you can rotate the mount 180 and it will bring it forward. I have also installed the RT Diff bracket with the red Bush on top pressing down on the diff to avoid going back with the strap. Well since my diff has moved backwards (i think) because of the newer front insulator the RT mount is falling right on the yoke which is no good. I haven't tried to rotate the mount yet and reinstall.....The car is at my friend/mechanic/body guys shop but after taking it in and out about 4 times yesterday I g…
Last reply by Acemon, -
- 2 followers
- 13 replies
- 1.4k views
Are you guys using anything special for intake/exhaust fasteners? I’m using a Datsun Motorsport header that has been on my car since the 70’s and a non-EGR L28 intake that has been extrudehone’d. The EFI will be controlled by a Haltech Elite 2500. I was going to just order some new fasteners from the ZStore but I thought I’d ask here first...
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 1 follower
- 15 replies
- 906 views
Hello to all. . . Purchased my little car after it was driven into the ground and then parked for 17 years so there was no shake-down drive to listen to rear end, trans, engine etc. I currently have everything behind the transmission completely out and am cleaning up and spiffing up or replacing, shaft, brake, frame, stub-axle, wheel bearings, suspension components and bushings, et. al. as I go. Removed R180 diff, cleaned it up and took to to a gear shop hoping there was a cheap and easy diagnosis to tell me if it seemed like it was in decent shape. I didn't see any metal or crap in the bottom or on the magnet when I drained it. I was told by several gear places that l…
Last reply by ToolBoy, -
Sealing an oil pan 1 2 3 4 6
by siteunseen- 8 followers
- 65 replies
- 15.1k views
What do you guys do? I'm thinking of RTV on the pan then a cork gasket then another thin skim on the block. Overkill? Just the cork gasket? Just the RTV? Thanks for any suggestions. Cliff
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
Engine Rebuild 1 2
by Auston- 5 followers
- 20 replies
- 3.4k views
Hi. I am rebuilding a L28. (N42 Block and N47 Head) I want to build a good NA motor. I'm young, and I am looking for your wisdom. I do not want to turbo, and I wanna make anything above 200hp. How should I go about this? Edit: I forgot to add, my budget is around 1,500 to 2,000 dollars. Any advice would be, very much appreciated. Thank you, and have a blessed day.
Last reply by Auston,
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