Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,574 topics in this forum
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Ok, So i'm on my way home today, and some kid in his brand new Hyundai Tiburon GT thinks his car is faster than mine. Naturally he finds out its not . Unfortunately, this comes at a cost to me. I get home to find out my Fuel Pressure Regulator dripping gas. I was hoping it was just one of the hoses connecting to it that cracked, becuase I can not find anywhere on the regulator itself that appears craked. Unfortunately, after replacing all the hoses gas is still dripping off of it. So I looked at MSA and VB and both have replacements for $60+ plus shipping, and a special order one from Autozone is $42. Is this something I can pull off of a parts car? I'm still re…
Last reply by sblake01, -
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Ugly, thick deposits on the tops of the intake valves (haven't gotten to the exhaust, yet). I'd very much like to clean the while I have the intake removed (I've taken to 'fiddling with it now that it's off). How best to proceed? I know of the seafoam in the intake bit, but this is somewhat too serious a buildup to trust to that. I suppose I could just scrape it off, but it would then possible find it's way into the combustion chamber doing god knows what to my rings/valves/walls. I'm wondering just what's going on here. Two intake valves have 'wet' looking deposits possible caused by the leaky injectors or possible bad valve guides there.
Last reply by sideshowbob, -
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I'm reassembling my '70 Z engine after overhaul and am finding conflicting values for the head bolt torquing. It has an E31 head, with engine block #005953. I purchased new head bolts from Nissan. Tom Monroe's "How to Rebuild your Nissan..." gives 61 ft-lbs. The Henley Shop Manual gives 47 ft-lbs. The Clymer Manual says on L24's up to block number 27000 or so (I'm going from memory since I'm out of town and don't have the manual with me) that the torque is 51 ft-lbs. Has anyone run up against this before? Any ideas? Thanks. Terry '70 240Z #3212
Last reply by kinfish, -
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I think I am going back to the stock setup on my '71 240Z. I am going to either buy a redone Z Therapy air cleaner or find a nice used one. Anyone got one for sale?
Last reply by jmark, -
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As i drive my 280 Z down the road i can see the faint sight of people keeling over in suffication of the black smoke that lingers out of my tail pipe. I was wondering if this could be a cracked or loose seal, electric choke, or whatever. I also was wondering about the timeing. I know the guy i bought it from wasn't really smart but, the timing is set for 20 degrees instead of 0 and the closer i get to 0 degrees the idle decreases and my whole car begins to shake like its got a bad case of rickets. can some one help me? Please?
Last reply by beandip, -
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i want to maximize gas mileage and power, and essentially get it running as efficiently as an early 240z. (yes, i realize it's heavier, but that aside..) (i'm smog exempt in southern CA, so i can remove/change/strip.) aside from changing the flat-top "boat anchor" SUs to early round-top SUs, what else do i need to do, specifically with regard to emissions controls, to get it running like a 70 or 71 240Z?
Last reply by agnyc1, -
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Because I have some serious vibration at 80MPH I went to a driveshaft shop because I was sure the problem was from that source. He comfirmed it after test drive. The guy told me that they don't replace u-joints and I need to buy a new or rebuilt driveshaft: cost: $366.00 plus shipping plus installation for a total of $477.00. I am perplex because these u-joints are available for replacement. Opinions please.
Last reply by montoya_fan01, -
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Whats up ya all, I recently broke my 280z harmonic balancer trying to get the balancer off. Well I ended up bidding an a 240Z balancer on ebay which I won. This is what the guy said about the balancer, I Quote. Description "You are bidding on a used crank or dampner pulley from a 1972 Datsun 240z. These are a great upgrade to your 280z according to some Z-specialty sites, as they are smaller in diameter and higher in RPM's. Regardless, this is a clean, balanced piece with the bolt included to attach to your crankshaft". Does anyone know about this upgrade so to say and is the timing marks the same on these pulleys or is it different. Could someone please let…
Last reply by 78 280zcar, -
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Anybody have a link to specifics of R and R of Master and slave clutch cylinders? I found a good article on bleeding the system on the Atlantic Z car website. nice pics, easy to understand. I'd just like to get more info than is in the service manual. This is actually for my 79. I would just like a bit more clarity on how to remove the master, and maybe hook it up. I lost complete pedal pressure on the clutch , and am not seeing any leaking from the slave, so I'm assuming its the master. Should I replace both cylinders?
Last reply by LanceM, -
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Hello Everyone, Has anybody ever heard of a Nismo r180 non LSD? I've tried doing a search on it and couldn't find any info. If such a differential exists, what benefits does it have over a stock 240z Diff? Thanks, Saro
Last reply by TTDRIVER, -
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1975 280z EFI 4spd Ok I lowered the idle back to 800 when it was warm, idles 1300 cold, thats good. Now the bad, it dies now at 800 warm, struggles and dies. Maybe the tach is off? It ran smooth at 1000, never lugged. I am willing to work on this to make it run perfect, but I dont know the engine like i've learned my z32. Any ideas if it isn't a misreading tach, maybe timing issue or vacuum? I am about to do a valve adjustment on it, might that fix it? Any help is help Thanks Sleepy-z
Last reply by clutch07182, -
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Are all crankshaft pulleys physically interchangable on all L6 cranks (240Z to 280ZX)? I need a 3 pulley arrangement to replace the 2 pulley on my 11/70 240Z 2.4 L6. I have a 3 pulley from a 280Z (possibly ZX) and don't want to jump into a pulley swap unless I know it will go okay.
Last reply by Q8 KAMIKAZE,
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