Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,574 topics in this forum
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- 12 replies
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No access(or money)for dyno, 280zx turbo block, bottom end balanced and blueprinted, ported and polished E31, .475/280 cam big springs and valves, jetted etc SUs, MSD 6AL, looking to put in the Rev limiter chip, anyone with similar motor have a suggestion on RPM limit? It's in my '70 Z with a 3.90 R200 Don't need to completey max it out. Thoughts, suggestions? Mike (PS runs like a scalded dog)
Last reply by Q8 KAMIKAZE, -
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I am stuck on what to cut off and what to keep in the turbo intake manifold. I know I might need to keep some of the holes but which ones and where do the lines go? If you have pictures of your install, I would greatly apreceate it. I don't want to get all crazy with cutting things off I might need. Thanks
Last reply by thehelix112, -
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im not finding any thing about poeple turboing there l24 my 1 Q is can you use a 280zxt turbo header on a l24 and my 2nd Q is what all do you need to turbo a l24 im a noob at z cars found a good deal on a 240z and wont to know how hard it is to turbo
Last reply by GONE-CAR-CRAZY, -
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This is an 1981(2) engine that had very few miles before the car was totalled the same year it was purchased. THe engine was boxed and stored in a wharhouse since then. The engine still had the original oil and in it and is in mint condition. I am getting ready to transplant it into my 76 but there are some vacume hose connections that I'm not sure where they should go? Also I had an AFM boot that looked like it was for this engine but I'm not sure. Also if anyone knows what year this engine is fur sure then let me know. F54 block with P79 head. Thanks in advance for your help. :classic: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=17258 http://www.cl…
Last reply by st0878, -
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Hey all, I posted this over at Zcar a few days ago, and came here to get a second opinion as well as some numbers. It looks like I'd probably end up taking off the ridge below the valve seat, port-matching, and doing a mild polish. How dificult would this be for someonw w/ no prior porting experience, and about how much HP would this net me if I were to upgrade intake and exhaust in addition to the port?
Last reply by Grim, -
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Hello everyone, If an engine has not been started for ten years, will it show low compression numbers before it has actually been started? Should the engine actually run for a little bit and then have it checked for compression? Please help! Today was the day I was going to get the car running after 2 years and I got the bad news from my mechanic that it might be a tired engine. The trustworthy person whom I bought the engine from, a Classiczars.com member, told me that he had the head rebuilt about 5k miles before it was removed to put in his V8. I'm just praying that my mechanic might be making a mistake. Thanks everyone. Saro
Last reply by beandip, -
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Hi, im looking into buying a turbo for my 1976 280z . It is still fuel injected. I was wondering what i would need for this job as for parts other than the manifold and the turbo itself. Never had a car with a turbo so im new to them. Any input is welcome! Also if anyone is selling or knows of someone who is selling one im interested! =)
Last reply by boostedz, -
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hey guys im in a bit of a pinch i just recently warped the head on my 260 and in need of an answer i currently have an n42 head on that now needs to be shaved or should i just rebuilt the original e88 im looking for performance and dependability ive heard alot about the n42 heads and that the compression ratio is changed when put on i guess what im after. is it worth shaving the head and putting it back on or should i just use the e88?? :paranoid:
Last reply by cremmenga, -
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Hey all it's me ok this has been bugging me for a while now but when I first looked at my car before I bought it I saw a oil spray mark underneath my hood. The valve cover doesn't have a oil cap so I think busted the head when he was going 150 mph down the highway. But, anyway do you think there is a lot of dust or dirt where the oil cap screws on to? If it's yes how do I get it out?
Last reply by Fun_in_my_z, -
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Hey guys, i took the car around for a few minutes today, and only noticed one problem. I open up in second gear, and then take my foot off the accelerator, my tachometer goes wonky, going back and forth while it decelerates, and after about 5 seconds it returns to normal. This is very strange to me, any thoughts?
Last reply by Datsun-Fever, -
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Greetings, all! I am looking into replacing the hard fuel lines for my Z. They appear corroded, the fuel line filter housing has a rusty tone to it (orangier than normal gas) and actually the intake line appears to be out-of round as it enters the engine bay (see pic. Looks to me like it could cause fuel delivery problems). I am already doing rear end/undercarriage work, and was planning on replacing the hard brake lines (rusty colored brake fluid after 200 miles!) anyway, but I cannot find a source for fuel lines. Classic tube sells the brake line set for $225, but not the fuel lines (the one from tank to filter appears to be 5/16" while the others are more like 1/4…
Last reply by xray, -
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Member Gira is looking for the following parts for his competition gearbox for his EP 240Z. Car is the SE Division Champ and bound for the Runoffs. Syncro Sleeve 32606 14600 Shift Fork 32805 E9500 Anyone have these or know where they can be purchased? http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=16773&cat=500&page=1 Thanks!
Last reply by jmark,
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