Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,574 topics in this forum
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- 15 replies
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Ok, the background: 1977 280Z with some odd year of ZX dist. (probably an e12-92 with no markings) and a stock ignition coil. When wired through the resistor, the tach appeared to work fine. I removed the resistor (per Zgarage instructions) and gained greater spark but the tach read nothing! Added 10k Resistor and the tach works but bounces oddly and sometime during this process the engine developed something of a miss (it's bouncing too!). I don't think replacing the ballast resistor did much good, but I'll try it again. Perhaps I should invest in a new coil? :stupid:
Last reply by sideshowbob, -
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Hey everybody! I recently purchased a 280z that has been in storage for quite some time. I was in the process of tuning up the engine to try and turn it over. I pulled the drain plug on the gas tank to make sure that no rust fell out and something else fell out - it looks and feels like pieces of rubber! My guess is that the vent lines and/or the return line are flaking on the inside. All the rubber hoses are shot (on the outside), so I want to replace them anyways. Anybody ever seen or heard of this before? Can somebody help me get a shopping list together to replace ALL of the fuel lines? Should I consider replacing the lines with stainless and/or putting in a bi…
Last reply by webdawg1, -
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Nice... only draws 5.8Amps & is rated at 5500hours between rebuilds. I'm pretty impressed by the specs and have one on order & due to be delivered soon. I got it because I drive the Z every day 120miles roundtrip on my commute to and from work and find myself often at a crawl in L.A. traffic where I do see coolant temps climb a bit at times since our cooling is after all engine rpm dependent... Especially with the past couple weeks where the San Fernando valley has been sweltering in 100-108degree heat... I'll report back with results once it's in and in use. Maybe someone on here has already gotten one installed on their car? -e
Last reply by ChrisA, -
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Anyone know what other datsun if any did the L26 engine come in?
Last reply by Zedrally, -
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my speedometer dont work, i turned it by hand and my brother looked inside and told me that it jumps, means that the cable and the meter s ok, i took out the small plastic gear at the end of the gearbox (it was violet) adn it was ok as i guess but b4 taking the gear out i turned it with a screw driver and it was free!? i had the plastic gear in my hand, and it was pretty fine, the teeth were good.. but i stuck my had in the hole where the gear goes in i was surprize that there wasn't nthing that could drive the gear! is it possible? could that part be fixed by not removing all parts in the gearbox?
Last reply by BuDavid, -
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does anyone know what could cause a 280zx turbo to have an extremely slow accelleration and a top speed of about 70?....im thinking the fuel injectors but i dont know if this could cause the problem or not (when im low on fuel my car goes about 25 for a mile or so then dies)
Last reply by shakezula, -
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The question is how to detect a failing thermostat. My 72 Z has all the goodies for hot climate (100-118F) including three rows radiator, fan shroud. good fan clutch and 160 thermostat. Also my vapor lock is fixed with the addition of an electric fuel pump.(car is full stock) My engine runs cool with the A/C on in traffic or highway but since a week I am wondering if my thermostat is showing some sign of weakness. My temperature gauge is normally always below the middle mark. Now it tends to go a bit over the middle mark and comes back to the middle in traffic with all accessories on in day time. I am a little bit picky here wanting to have a 32 years old car performing …
Last reply by richard1, -
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Are there any suitable mufflers with dual tailpipes that would work on a S30 with the L28 engine besides the ones you can get from MSA or VB, but as a complete system? I'd like to get just the muffler, as the rest is new, and there's a glasspack in the middle. thx
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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hello all, when i read a mong your articles i found the expresion top end power and compresion ratio i.e (9.5 : 1) what is that , and how can i calcuated or measure it. thanx Saad - s30 - 1978
Last reply by CoastGuardZ, -
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I recently purchased this E88 complete head and noticed on arrival that the exhaust valve cam lobe to cylinder #4 is scratched (galled?) :disappoin All the other lobes appear very good.The block side of the head looks very good. The chambers are free of any carbon or deposits This head was rebuilt 2,000 mi. ago according to the seller. My question is: Is the cam trash or is it usable? :nervous:
Last reply by LanceM, -
- 14 replies
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i baught a 1977 280Z and i found some cancelled things in it, like the cainster! I couldnt find it under the hood, did they come with cainster or didnt? but the thing that drives me nuts is that tank or what it is called in the picture! can anyone tell what is it? and what is it's configuration, coz i hate cancelled things in the car! and in the other picture is the throttle in my car, it is wet of oil always, a guy told me that the engine needs overwhole! is that true? if not can u tell me how to eleminate this prob.? thanx
Last reply by sblake01, -
My new 280Z 1 2
by trwebb26- 15 replies
- 2.6k views
Hey everybody... my first thread! I just purchased a rust free 280Z out of Texas for $1500. The body is in phenominal shape, but the car has been sitting in a garage for a number of years. I plan on the every popular 280ZX built turbo motor swap, but would like to get the existing 280 FI motor running in the mean time. Here are the things I'm considering doing to the car to try and get it going: - Drain all the old gas flush all the lines (where can I take old gas???). Check for rust in the tank and have it worked over by a radiator shop if it is rusty. Replace the fuel filter and fill with new gas. - Check spray pattern for injectors (is there a "how to" on this …
Last reply by agemeansnothing,
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