Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,574 topics in this forum
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s30 with a 5spd. Not sure exactly which transmission it is, but it only has one exhaust hanger. Parked the car a couple of years ago and due to having some issues with shifting. My memory is bad on the best of days, but from what I remember it seemed as though the clutch would only engage part way when stepping on it. (Engage? Disengage? Not sure if I'm using the correct wording) Fast forward to today. -Checked the master cylinder and it was full /w no leaks. -Checked the slave cylinder and it's moving the clutch fork roughly 1" when pressed all the way in -Bled the slave cylinder which gave lots of nasty colored fluid that had been sitting i…
Last reply by Ptero, -
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Can anybody please advise me on the id of this Gleason torsen Lsd?,it looks very very similar to a 280z R200
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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So I have been working on rebuilding some cv halfshafts that I have with an CLSD differential This is the second one with the bands cut. One of the shafts, the boots were split and I can't imagine the grease was supposed to be tan. Normally that is an indication of water but maybe the factory grease was tan. You need to mark the one end (outer end) that can be disassembled. Supposedly the inner end is not disassemblable. So I made small marks and also marked some blue tape for indexing Then you drive the cap off the end Then remove the snap ring and use the puller There is a clip on the inboard side too I co…
Last reply by Patcon, -
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Any suggestions on aftermarket air filter and crank case breather. I was considering using the stock air cleaner. But as my engine is coming together I am re thinking that. I have seen some nice pics of aftermarket filters. I will be running SU Carbs from Ztherapy Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by jitenshakun, -
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Ok, I finally got around to replacing my fuel rail and a few questionable bolts and nuts. When I looked in my 75 280 service manual it says that the stock manifold 8 mm bolts torque is 10-13 ft-lbs and the 10 mm bolts are 25 -36 ft-lbs. My manifold intakes are 14 mm bolts and the exhaust are 12 mm nuts? What am I missing here? Any clarification on size and torque would be appreciated. Thanks
Last reply by zclocks, -
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I tried searching and reading the FSM and the rebuild book. They touch on it but I am pretty dim witted so.... piston 12 o clock is the front of the piston as if it was installed in the engine. So example the piston pin is front 12 o'clock and back 6 o'clock Gaps at o'clock please 1) bottom oil control ring at " " o'clock 2) oil ring expander ring at " " o'clock 3) top oil control ring at " " o'clock 4) bottom compression ring at " " o'clock 5) top compression ring at " " o'clock
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Hi guys, Refurbishing my '78 5-speed transmission and having a tough time removing the shifter rod from the tail housing. The (what looks like) outcrop from the shifter rod (shown in picture) refuses to separate from the shifter rod even after we take the nut and washer out. Is there a trick to getting this out? -chase
Last reply by madkaw, -
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Quick question on engine and accessory paint colors...I know that the block is a blueish green which can be bought from Bansai Motorworks. The real question is how much of the engine was this color? Like was the alternator mount this color or different? How about the AC mounting bracket? Oil pan? etc, etc, etc. If these and other items were different colors then what color were they? Pix would be great as well. Thank you in advance!! ?
Last reply by HappyZ, -
Time for some collective thinking please oh wise heads. Problem: the car feels like it's "missing" constantly but randomly (I.e. Not always on the same Cyl). Mainly on steady throttle or idle. Goes like stink but tries to die when idling. Plugs all look the same, like they are firing and chocolate brown if taken out after hard acceleration and ign off + neutral. It feels like it would, if a carb was way out of balance or a cyl not firing correctly. Engine: L28, 10.5:1, 270 degree high lift cam, Dynamic Compression c. 205PSI across all 6, pertronix flamethrower coil, 8.5mm HT leads, NGK BPR6ES plugs gapped at 1.1mm , 123 ignition. Z therapy SUs / SM needles…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Trying to identify some cams I have. Yes, I have too many and I'm only 19. Trying to figure out which one would be the best to use for my engine rebuild, and can't find much information online about any of them. I have 3 heads, I marked in all the pictures what head the cam came from. Which cam would you guys use? The P79 cam has no markings on the back, which I found odd. Couldn't find anything about it.
Last reply by AK260, -
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Let me start this thread by saying that I was not looking to solve a mystery or bust a myth when I started this procedure. I just wanted to rebuild my tired old 76 280Z half-shafts! I think there was a very common myth that the S30 half-shafts were different sizes. The driver side being shorter than the passenger side. Even though the distance from the wheel hub to the differential differs (more-so with the R200) from side to side, the half-shafts are IDENTICAL! The amazing amount of lateral play in the shaft allows it to expand or contract almost three inches. ...on to the pics! First a shot of the shafts after I ran one through the media cabinet next to the ot…
Last reply by ETI4K, -
- 2 followers
- 6 replies
- 833 views
I'm getting ready to replace my clutch master and slave cylinders. I'll be doing this solo and am wondering about the clutch master mounting bolts and nuts. Do I need to secure the bolt inside near the clutch pedal so when I loosen the mounting bolts on the clutch master they don't just spin? Maybe I'm overthinking this. Thanks
Last reply by zKars,
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