Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,574 topics in this forum
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- 4 replies
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Recently my car has been smoking grey/blue BAD upon start up. It starts to smoke after about 2 minutes of warming up and the exhuast pipe is HOT then it burns.... so I assumed some oil was leaking... I assume this is due to mis-aligned valve guides.. OR oil leaking from the turbo charger and sitting in the exhuast pipe... which I am still trying to source down. Anyway here are the numbers for my 1978 280Z N47 and N47 head, with that damn turbocharger.. .. my FSM for my 1978 says it should be between 164psi - 178psi so obviously my rings are a bit worn.. but bad enough to require an immediate overhaul? Good or Bad? Cylinder 1 - 130psi Cylinder 2 - 130psi Cylinder 3 …
Last reply by zman525, -
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Hey guys its KGL, and I just got my car running for the first time. but i have a problem, i have it set to run but the timing is so advanced that i cant screw down the distributor. Now what i'm thinking is that the cam is the problem. the cam that i have in the car is a MSA stage 2. so what i am asking is were do you guys set the timing on the car with a stage two cam in it. the rest of the car is stock except, i cut in larger 280z valves. I also took all the smoge off the car. Also the head that i have is a E31. I need help. Any input will do me good. KGL,
Last reply by KGL, -
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I recently had a fuel injector die out on me on my 77 280z and replaced it with one I pulled from a n/a ZX in the junkyard some time before. It went in an unusual way.. When I pulled the plug to the cylinder at idle, the engine roughened as expected but when I pulled the injector plug there was no change (injector leaking?). Now that I've replaced it the engine runs more smoothly (still rough) but removing the oil filler cap no longer causes it to die. So.... did I fix the problem and now have a vacuum leak to trace or is that single injector putting out way too much fuel? Victoria british lists the same part number for the injector, however the ZX injector has no 'cup' o…
Last reply by sideshowbob, -
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Can some explain to me (or direct me too)the diferences in the p90 and p80(if there is such a thing), the LY hemi and whatever other heads can be fitted to an l28, bearing in mind that it will be stroked and bored to approx 3 litres i have a reasonable budget and i wish to make as close to 300hp using an N/A set up, and have heard that this is possible. I have also heard that the LY head is the strongest and the most suited for large or larger hp set-ups. in essence i am looking for someone to tell me the most desireable head to use on a racer and why. any help would be apprecated.
Last reply by e_racer1999, -
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i have a leaking heater hose and i started to try and replace it today. well, shortly there after i was stumped. i have a 73 and is there an easy way to remove and replace the heater hoses? they go through the firewall and connect way up under the dash between the heater and blower i guess. Is it possible to do without removing the dash? thanks for the help
Last reply by 2-4-T-Z-MAN, -
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As I progress with the project (75 280Z), I am stumped at the moment with ignition troubles. When I try to start the car, I get nothing from the engine or starter. One click, the gauges jump and nothing else. I bridged the positive terminal of the battery to a lead on the starter and the engine turns over. That tells me it is in the ignition somewhere. Earlier in the diagnosis, I replaced the starter, battery & cables, and the 5 pin ignition switch behind the key cylinder. I am waiting on a ignition key cylinder to arrive that I bought on Ebay. I separated the 5 pin switch from the key cylinder and turned it with a flathead screwdriver and I still get nothing.…
Last reply by a752adz, -
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Please help me out a little here. I'm working on an engine build and trying to get everything together that I will need. I have the main engine covered (block, head, internals, gaskets, etc) I think. FYI, working on a stroker if this info is important. Additionally I will need the external components and have created this list, please let me know if anything is missing: '79 Mazda RX7 OEM electric Fuel Pump Turbo Z Car Oil Pump Water Pump Alternator some ignition system but not sure which (suggestions?) New clutch (probably a Centerforce) Now while the engine is out I have also compiled this list of things to do from another thread here (I'm also swapping the tranny …
Last reply by texasz, -
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Hi,I'm on my 4th 280zx and have looked over dozens more. I have come to the conclusion that somewhere around 140K miles the last exhaust bolt by the firewall breaks off. Rencently I found a '83 280zx with only 71K miles and it is also missing that last bolt. Maybe its not a mileage thing and more of a year thing. I think it has to be a heat problem and that mileage has something to do with it. But this Z with 71K seems to early, and yes I beleive the mileage is correct, many things point to its accuracy. Does anyone have the true reason why all these bolts are missing. Thanks, Bill
Last reply by hls30.com, -
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I have a Web Cam, grind #91. It has .450" lift. I have it in a rebuilt 3.0 block with a ported 90A head. It is running 9.0 compression. Lots of vtp clearance. The cam timing sheet states that I should run it 4` advanced. I am wondering about that setting? I called WEB and they said it was OK to retard the cam a bit to get a little more top end. I dialed it in with 2 1/2` of advance. I am thinking I need a bit more top end power because this 3.0 engine will have all kinds of low end torque. I thought I needed a bit more power at the top end. Am I doing the right thing here? Or, should I set it at 4 1/2` (close as I can get it) advance and go with the bottom end power? It …
Last reply by ZSaint, -
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wondering if any one can tell me the length of a 280zx turbo driveshaft or any cv driveshaft fitted to a 240z with r200 have bought r200 lsd with cv shafts still in diff but cut off half way to hub been told can get new ends and shaft made just need over all length if i go this way wont need adaptor on diff side just need to find a cv end that will fitt to hub Thanks Mick
Last reply by drunkenmaster, -
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I have an L28 which has recently been rebuilt (1000klicks ago) and have noticed lately that the oil pressure gauge is showing lower than where it normally resides on the gauge when the motor was first installed. It is just reading about 1/4 on the standard oil pressure gauge which has made me check the oil on several occassions. This is fine and the oil is only 400k's old and I am running a 20-50W Pennzoil. I suppose what I am looking for are any hints that there is nothing seriously wrong inside. Thanks Biker
Last reply by Fun_in_my_z, -
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Please forgive any errors made in posting this, as this is my first attempt at a new thread. I am restoring my 1/71 series 1 to original, and, although my car was dealer delivered without the shroud, I do have dealer installed York A/C. I have a metal shroud and need to paint it the correct black,. ie, matt, semi, or gloss black. Anyone know the correct color? The radiator, I am assuming from factory pictures, is gloss black. Thanks, and I hope to be more of a hands on participant on this terrific sight. There are many knowledgable people here, and the bias is to maintaining the classic 240. Dan 1/71 240z hls30-20419 IZCC# 12324
Last reply by AZ-240z,
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