Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,574 topics in this forum
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I don't think I've got the perfect combination, but that's ok. I'll work with what I've got. L28 & 5 speed wide ratio with one of the following: R180 /w 3.36 gearing (existing diff) R200 /w 3.54 gearing (have all components to install in car) Some highway driving and some city driving, but no track or racing. Is there a preferred combination here? From what I understand, 3.36 might be a bit sluggish in lower gears but better on the highway while the 3.54 would be a bit better for light to light but higher rpms on the highway. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Last reply by AK260, -
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- 2 followers
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So the recent chatter about timing and distributers has me thinking. The stock distributors include a mechanical (centripetal) advance function and the spec varied some over the years, but as an example here's the spec for 77: 0 degrees at 600 distributor RPM (1200 RPM at the crank) 8.5 degrees at 1250 distributor RPM (2500 crank) There should be no mechanical advance below 1200 RPM, then start ramping up to a max of 8.5 degrees by the time you reach 2500 RPM. Once above 2500 RPM the mechanical advance is topped out and holds at 8.5 degrees all the way up to redline. Specs like this are given in degrees because that's what can be measured a…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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- 24 replies
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I, of all people, have a wiring question for those of you who have a 240Z with A/C. I'm rebuilding an engine harness and I'm going to ADD in the A/C controll wire. The questions are these. 1) what size is the blue control wire? 14 gauge or 16 gauge wire. 2) does the A/C pump only go on the left side of the engine compartment or is there a passenger side A/C pump? And if so, does it also only require a single activation wire? I can't find any good pictures or threads that describe the wire, size and location and where it goes other than into the firewall into the passenger side. I've seen the thermostat switches IN a Z before but never followed the wires. Any help wou…
Last reply by tetert1, -
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I dismantled my distributor in hopes of cleaning it up and getting it ready to go back on my shiny rebuilt engine. I probably went further than I should have and removed the points plate. I found only 1 governor spring on the weights below the plate?? Is this correct. I didnt find any broken springs in the housing. The car seemed to be running fine before the tear down. Any diagrams I have found all show 2 springs. Also think I will just order another points plate since I may have screwed this one up taking it apart. Going back with the Petronix Ignition.
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 8 replies
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Howdy, I decided to remove the sick electrical fans and shroud I made after having the temperature crawl up when I was tracking my car. I think the temperature probe is not opening at the advertised 190*c..... I saved the studs for the fan, but I can’t recall the orientation; does the longer threaded section go into the water pump/pully? Or does the shallow end ? there is a picture in the ebay link below. https://www.ebay.com/i/323788088672?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=323788088672&targetid=884451011963&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=200807&poi=&campaignid=925…
Last reply by heyitsrama, -
1972 Datsun 240z with stock SU carbs stalling at intersections! How do i solve this? 1 2
by Johnny wick- 1 follower
- 19 replies
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Just purchased a 1972 Datsun 240z from a Dealer in Colorado where it is cold. The car was shipped to Panama, Central America where the temperature is 32 degrees Celsius (Hot Weather). Anyway, i had to remove the thermostat as it was taking the temperature needle more than half way. The car Works perfectly and mantains the needle at half of the temperature gauge for the first 25 minutes. After that time lapse and whenever i stop at any intersection light the RPM starts to drop to 600 RPM with the intention of stalling, so in a rush of not being dumped in the road i drove to my house and kept the car in idle for 2 minutes when it finally shut down. Could this be a carbureto…
Last reply by tetert1, -
valve guide seals 1 2 3
by Dave WM- 1 follower
- 34 replies
- 3k views
in an attempt to reduce oil consumption (1q 1000 apx) I decided to replace the intake guide seals. I decided to only to the intakes since its not an easy task and I figure the exhaust side would not suck oil anyway. Based on the condition they have been I would think its prob not going to help anyway since the old ones seem pliable, but maybe a bit larger diameter where the valve stem seals. I was going to do a video but that is just too hard to capture so I thought I would share my process. removed the valve cover, and all the plugs. used a 19mm on the camshaft bolt to turn the lobes with the intake lobe straight up, this is past TDC on the piston stroke. …
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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Crazy question. In a 4 or 5 speed trans, there is a plastic gear on the output shaft that drives the speedo cog. I need to know the number of teeth on that shaft gear. I've had several trannies apart in the past and recycled more of these shafts that I can remember, but never kept one! Why you ask? I have a electronic vehicle speed sensor on my 5 speed now, attached to the speedo cog output housing, and need to compute it's output frequency vs wheel speed. To get a ballpark number, I need the tooth count on the shaft gear to get the speed vs RPM data to enter into my Haltech tuning software. (I get my MPH from a GPS speedometer) If someone just happens to have …
Last reply by YZFMax, -
- 1 follower
- 7 replies
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Can anyone identify this Electramotive Cam? Specifications? Thanks
Last reply by Patcon, -
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- 11 replies
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Now that my 240 restoration is complete (well largely complete - is it ever complete complete?) I'm trying to clean up my garage. I knew I had two spare heads, but find that I actually over the past decade have accumulated four. Three are N42s while the other is E31. I have an N42 on the car. The only difference I can see is that the valves are a bit larger on the 42. I haven't measured the combustion chamber size, and don't know what differences there are in cams. I'd like to know which head is correct for my '71 HLSS30 28726,and what differences there are in terms of performance. Many thanks
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
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- 502 views
Hello all. Dreaded Z newbie here. I've recently gotten a 260z motor and 280z 5 speed. I need clutch, pressure plate and flywheel to complete the package. I'm planning/hoping to put this engine in a non-Z car. Can anyone guide me on where to go from here? I don't even know enough yet to ask many questions, so any help will be appreciated. Thanks in advance
Last reply by dbrunson28@gmail.com, -
- 8 followers
- 210 replies
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A while ago, I picked up an 83 ZX non-turbo and (with my recent calamity with my Z motor*), I've been working on pulling the motor with the intention of moving over into my 1977 Z. It's a stock F54/P79 combo and I'm not going to do a big time rebuild at this time, but I do want to do some clean-up and maybe some easy low hanging fruit improvements. I'm no engine expert and I'm going to have some questions for the collective along the way. I think there was a slight head gasket issue with the engine, so one of the things I wanted to do was replace that. Here's where I am right now. Head is off and block is stripped ready to be pulled from the donor car: So my fir…
Last reply by Captain Obvious,
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