Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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Ok, I recently bought a very nice powder-coated oil pan on-the-cheap that I intend to use on my 280Z (pan gasket needs replaced, so I figured it's as good a time as any!). Powder coating looks very nice. The question that occurred to me, after receiving it, is that the inside of the oil pan is also powder coated. My understanding is that powder coating is impervious to just about anything, but are there any negatives to having this material inside the engine? I gather that people sometimes paint the inside of the block, so I figure powder coat in the oil pan should be as safe as that, right?
Last reply by mdbrandy, -
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How much and where to get one?
Last reply by Hallowed, -
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Like the title states, she won't rev past 3500rpm. Idles like a dream and makes great power up to 3500, but after that she breaks up real bad and won't accelerate anymore. The car doesn't blow out any black smoke, indicating a rich cond. Any idea's guys? Also, There's rust peices in the new fuel filter. Should i just keep changing filters/re-filling the gas and see if they go away/clean themselves out? Or do i need to boil the tank? Thanks for any help, Jay
Last reply by Coastieee240z, -
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Can somebody tell me where the ballast resistor is supposed to be on a 280Z? I thought it would be very near the coil, but the only thing I see there is a noise cap. thx.
Last reply by JZM, -
Hi all, I have a puzzling oil leak in the L24. Bear with me and if you have any input don't be afraid to post. Gradually over a period of 12 months, I've noticed a small buildup of oil, over the past 2 months it's become more than a slight drop here and there, so over the xmas break I decided to do some indepth investigation. 2 weeks ago, armed with a high pressure spray unit, I cleaned down the whole RHS of the block, including the fuel pump and front timing chain cover so I would be able to observe and trace the source of this leak. Conclusion/deduction from last weekend was, Oil was not dripping from. Front cover Cam cover/gasket. This left only the fuel pump gasket, …
Last reply by Zedrally, -
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Has anyone heard or experienced a crank pulley coming apart? The rubber between the damper and pulleys is deteriorated but it is hard for me to believe it would come apart. Actually, before this was pointed out to me, I didn't really realize these were two different parts bonded together. Maybe I'm paranoid but I need some feedback on this. I would buy a new euro pulley from msa but I want to try and keep ac.
Last reply by civ104, -
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Hi all, The puzzling oil leak from the fuel pump has opened up a couple of interesting questions, as to the geneology of the engine blocks of the L24 & L26. Seeking technical guidence, I made some comparisions with the FSM of the 330 series [known as the 260C in Australia]. The fuel pump in this is still an EDP [engine driven pump], which surprised me as all 260Z's here came with an electrical pump. Bit retro maybe as Nissan may have had an over abundance of EDP's and this series didn't suffer from vapour lock The surprising "find" was that it was actually a 2 hole bolt on EDP, whereas the 240Z was a 3 hole. [When inquiring about a new pump, I was asked if it was 2 or…
Last reply by Bambikiller240, -
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Hello all, I took off my valve cover today for the first time to see what shape everything was in. All components looked good except for one area on the cam. It looks as if it has surface rust. I took off the oiler bar and sprayed it well with carb cleaner, but it appears to be in great shape. I took it apart because I wanted to check the clearance levels. The car is running well, there just is a slight ticking at all times. Let me know if you guys think everything looks to be up to par. Thanks! Pictures of cam
Last reply by SavannahZ, -
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I bought this 78 280z about 2 weeks ago, car runs fantastic! untill tuesday night at a stop sighn. I take off hard in 1st, then 2nd, almost to red line, and BOOM! all my windows fog up, coolant is spitting all from behind the dash, and the smell of HOT coolant smoke fills the car. I pull over, I'm not far from home, and I see what just happend is not good, so I drive home. The motor temp never gets to 250f , But after I get home I lift the hood and see some leekage from between #3 and #4 piston (just above the oil filter) Now I know the heater core cracked from the pressure, I think this was going to happen at anytime because I could always smell just a hint of coolant in…
Last reply by big-phil, -
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I have the coated MSA 6/1 header, MSA aluminized exhaust which comes with the Dynomax Turbo muffler. It sounds very agressive outside the car but between 2K to 3K rpm it has a serious drone/resonance which gets old quick. I am planning on having a "glasspack" added after the header collector pipe to serve as a pre-muffler. See link below. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/exhaust/index.html Anyone here done this? Opinions?
Last reply by jmark, -
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I was all ready to put my engine back together until I noticed that one of the pistons was different from the rest (second hand engine, see other post). Now it looks like I may have to use my flattop pistons, which didnt come with rods. So....Im thinking of putting the pistons on top of the rods and getting them balanced.Do I really need to get the flywheel,crank etc balanced as well? I dont see why I should, Its not going to be a race car, its not going to see high RPM (max 5.5k) and its just going to be a daily driver. I've heard that the L28 crank is already quite well balanced and as long as its not a racing engine, it shouldnt need to be touched. Any advise from ppl …
Last reply by Coastieee240z, -
Any advice on best price and availability on new pistons for my 240 motor. My machinist was ordering from federal mogal but I guess it went back order.
Last reply by madkaw,
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