Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,574 topics in this forum
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First post. So, I just pulled my head to begin major cylinder head and engine overhaul on my 165k 1973 240z, and found that the cam locating plate was broken in half. Car was running fine but very low compression across the board that motivated the rebuild. I'm unable to find a replacement. Checked with Courtesy Nissan and does not seem to be available or local dealers. Does anyone know of a source for this piece? Thanks for any advice or suggestions.
Last reply by rem1313, -
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- 2 followers
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Looking for experienced opinions if the Beck-Arnley hydraulic clutch parts-slave, master, hose-are worth the extra money compared to the store brand options. Quality control seems to be a bit slack on some of the chain store branded parts. First hand experience being an assistant manager at one of them. I do not have any previous experience with the Beck-Arnley parts but have seen the name out there with generally higher prices. Just continuing the resurrection project and getting the various systems parts purchased in advance for the project. Thanks, John-Lugoff, SC.
Last reply by One Way, -
R200 Comparison 1 2
by Blitzed- 1 follower
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Hi All, Happy 2020! Recently acquired two Datsun R200 diffs. I'm a novice with Z the drive train configs so bear with me. The diffs are the same gear ratio. One has the input yoke listed below as DAT 110 and half shaft flanges on each side. The other has the input yoke listed as DAT 110 300ZX with no half shaft flanges. Both are round input yokes, one smaller than the other. In addition to the yoke comparison below, how can I determine which Z these diff's came from, Z31 or Z32. Serial numbers ? If the assumption (based on the image below) one is from a 280ZX and the other is from a 300ZX, is one diff preferred or better over the other? Reason I…
Last reply by Blitzed, -
- 3 followers
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Could someone tell me what type washers go with the (2) 6mm short bolts,6mm long bolt and (2) 8mm bolts. Lock,flat,or both. Thanks.
Last reply by jackmau, -
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I currently have the stock 240z differential and I was looking to swap it for a z31 differential. Just wanted to ask you guys some questions. 1) would it be easier to rebuild current differential ninstead of swapping? 2) if I should proceed with swap what else would I need to modify or buy to install it, along side a 5 speed u currently have
Last reply by Gizmohawk, -
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I'm about to do a partial rebuild of my E88 260z and I was wondering what is your stance on replacing valve springs if the engine is internally stock well maintained. I already plan on doing a full disassembly and inspection to the head components, but should I plan on replacing the valve springs as a matter of preventative maintenance or not? Thanks
Last reply by Yarb, -
- 3 followers
- 21 replies
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I had my engine rebuilt about 7 years ago. Since then I have to adjust (move ) the dist. all the way to the drivers side to make it run correctly. In the middle of the adjustment range it runs like sh*t.Some back history - the timing tab may not be correct as the crank pulley never lined up to zero at TDC- however I recently got the crank pulley rebuilt and now at TDC it seems to point to zero. In any case my issue is that the rebuilder used some lame aftermarket chain sprocket at the cam that does not have the V to associate the - mark to. In addition it does not seem they put the brass link associated to the #1 dimple or any dimple at TDC the brass link is a few inches …
Last reply by zdude1967, -
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I’m replacing the oil seals on a R200 3.90:1 differential that I bought on Craigslist last year. I have a “tool” for driving in the side oil seals, but not for the front oil seal. Instead of hunting for what I need to do the job, can I just use the companion flange and a wood block & hammer to safely drive the front oil seal into place? If my idea is likely to mess the seal up, I’ll hunt for the right thing to do the job. Thanks for your advice! Old front seal and companion flange shown in picture below.
Last reply by SoCalJim, -
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I’m a bit stumped on how to separate the front case from the adapter plate on the 5-speed I’m eventually going to put into my 280Z. I’ve removed the front cover, washer, and snap ring for the main shaft, and I’ve removed the large snap ring for the main shaft bearing. The FSM says to tap the case off the adapter plate with a soft hammer; however, I can’t seem to get them to separate. Is something that’ll require really wailing on? I’m really reluctant to go all primeval on it for fear of damaging something. Any advice or pointing out my stupidity would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Last reply by SoCalJim, -
- 5 replies
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So @GGRIII and I are putting motor parts together and he's got two cams... One of them is an "F" grind from an 82 non-turbo car and the other one is a "B" grind from an 82 turbo car. We're trying to figure out which one would be better to use. According to the interwebs, the lift numbers for both of them are the same and the valve timing specs for the two are as follows: Format in FSM - a / b / c / d / e / f - ex duration / intake duration / intake open btc / intake close abc / ex close atc / ex open bbc "F" (na) - 248 / 240 / 16 / 44 / 10 / 58 "B" (turbo) - 248 / 240 / 12 / 48 / 14 / 54 It appears to me that the only differ…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 5 followers
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I recently did some work on my front diff mount and strap and here are my findings from the project. It was my first time messing around with these parts. Here is a pic of the old mount and original hardware. I'm replacing the mount because the rubber is soft and squishy. The original hardware holding the mount to the diff is hard to remove because the mount itself is partially in the way. It's much easier with the whole diff out of the car, but if you're trying to replace the mount without dropping the diff it's a pain in in the butt. I think you're supposed to remove the hardware using an open end wrench on the bottom and a box end up in the trans tunnel hump …
Last reply by bartsscooterservice, -
- 4 followers
- 5 replies
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Hi Guys! Tracking down an oil leak. Getting some light leaking from the back of the oil pan even after tightening, so I was planning on removing the pan and replacing the seal. Wanted to see if there are any other maintenance tasks I should think about doing while the engine oil is drained and the pan is off.
Last reply by Muzez,
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