Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,574 topics in this forum
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Is there a casting code or something on the LD28 crank to identify it? If not how can one tell the LD28 crank from just an L28 crank?
Last reply by mrcheeze36, -
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Hi all, I was watching a Best Motoring video last night and saw a very nice RB20DE (NA) in an old R31. 2.4 ltr and reved very nicely. I havent been able to find much on the NA RBs, do any of you guys know of anyone who has put an NA into a Z or any idea on the specs of a DE? ALso, what is the feasibility of attaching my FJ gearbox and triple 45mm Webers? Thanks Guys, As always
Last reply by Deus Ex, -
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Does anyone know if there is a difference in the throttle linkage for a 70-71 and 72-73? I received a new chromed linkage from a 72 model and it doesn't exactly match my 71. I thought 70-73 would be the same since all had SUs. Thanks for your input............Keith
Last reply by beandip, -
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Hello everyone. I dropped my P90 head off at the machine shop today. These are the specs I gave him: 262/272 duration 450 lift mill head .020 for a 9:1 ratio 5 way valve grind intake 3 way valve grind exhaust port and polish What do you all think? Let me know. Rick.
Last reply by Ed, -
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I noticed the other day that there was some water dripping from my water pump. It looked like it was from the gasket but just to be safe I wanted to check to make sure that it was pumping water. So I used the old 'squeeze' test on the upper rad hose. Something caught my attention behind me and I whipped around and my hand smacked the distributor cap off. I looked at everything and all seemed to be in order so I put it back on but the car wouldn't start yet I was getting spark. I got frustrated and left it. I was about to post to ask for help when I decided to check it again. I pulled off the rotor and noticed that the base was cracked. It must have smacked the inside of …
Last reply by 1971rb26dett, -
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Hello everyone. So the other day, I do my weekly search at the junkyards here in San Diego, and what did I find but a p90 head, turbo oil pump, perfect seats to a 1970 240 and an intake manifold to a 260z. I find out that Saturday (today) is half price day at the junkyard. I hide all the parts and came back this morning. My total was $56.00 plus tax. It just does not get better than that. I just had to share my good fortune. Rick.
Last reply by e_racer1999, -
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Any ideas on why i get a breif deceleration while accelerating either at part or full throttle? It is an intermitent problem for sure. It can happen when applying throttle at any RPM, you give her gas, say at 3500, she will accelerato to maybe 4200, then fall back to 4000 for a second then pick up again,. Otherwise the engine is running very smooth, no jerky action during these episodes. Does it sound like a timing advance problem? its not just the tach malfunctioning, I can hear the enigine fall off in revs for a few seconds, but again it is internmitent. This is in my 71 with stock carbs, only mod is header and exhaust.
Last reply by MikeW, -
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Can anyone tell me the minimum required engine pressure reading in psi or kg/CM2 I should have for 240Z 1971 ? I know the compression ratio,but I need the gage reading to check the performance of each cylinder.
Last reply by suleymantezgul, -
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I was reading an article about how NASCAR needs to update a few things in their cars. One article was how NASCAR continues to use carburetors but virtually no cars built today utilize carburetors. The other article was in reference to cams. It stated that they continue to use "Old Style Flat Tappet Cams" which are neither as efficient nor as durable as roller cams. Much of the cam failure that drivers experience would be eliminated with roller cams. Our Z's have roller cams, correct? Can someone explain to me what a "Tappet Cam" is. Vicky
Last reply by LanceM, -
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hey guys, I seem to have a leak coming from my oil pan so i have purchased a new oil pan gasket. My car sat in a warehouse for about four years and i cant seem to get my oil to stay clean either even after using motor flush so i'm guessing i have gunk on the bottom of the oil pan. As long as i tighten the bolts in a cross pattern, installation of the pan and gasket shouldn't be a big deal right? I was recently warned to be careful because i could warp the pan putting it back in if i dont torque it down right. How important are the specific torque specifications as long as i'm tightening in the cross pattern? thanks, brian
Last reply by broken74, -
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**also posted in hybridz okay, i'm trying to find a really god combination for a street/autox car. i want decent power, but i don't need buttloads of torque. i have a 1972 240z (all stock) with the E88 head. i have a complete N47 L28 (1979) and i already have some ideas. i wanna know what you think! okay, i'm taking the 5 speed and i'm keeping the R180 (LSD comes later) and putting 4.11 gears in it (good idea?). i plan on getting flattop or slightly domed pistons and using the crank and rods from the L24 (i know you think this is going in the wrong direction, but i want revs!). will the L24 rods be good enough? I also want to know which head i should use (E88 or N47). i…
Last reply by e_racer1999, -
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Hey guys, so a while ago i was asking about my engine, it felt and sounded like it wasnt getting enough fuel, and it kept choking out and dieing. Well i looked at the fuel filter and sure enough, their are two collapsed and kinked areas in the rubber hoses, so it was cutting off alot of fuel. Anyone else have this problem? i want to make a new metal fuel line in that area, any advice? thanks. -Fixed
Last reply by 1971rb26dett,
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