Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,574 topics in this forum
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hi all, I was planning on doing the ld28 crank and 89mm piston thing BUT i think i'll go the lamer standard stroke way. I am hoping on keeping the std l28 crank and fitting some 89mm (120 thou over) pistons that should give 3.0l. Does anyone know if any standard 89mm pistons will fit, with correct piston height etc(even with diff rods)? The L series engine calc program is good but i still want more details before I go ahead.(like sussing out oversize head gaskets etc) Has anyone done this?
Last reply by kyleh, -
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The crank shaft pulley is wobbling and hitting something which creating banging noise from the L28. So I have to replace the crank shaft pulley, altnater pulley, and the water pump pulley. What's is the "internal balance damper/harmonic balancer/Euro damper"? I read privious posts which suggest the crank shaft pulley and Harmonic balancer are same things. So if I buy a Euro Damper or Race damper from the NISMO or Super Damper(Harmonic balancer) from the ATI performance products, then I won't have to buy L-28 crank shaft pulley from NISMO or MSA? Please someone advice for this things. jaynez31
Last reply by Ben, -
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Just wondering if anyone knows how much an L6 crankshaft weighs ? Cheers
Last reply by MikeW, -
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good day everybody hi im from sydney australia what i would like to know can i fit 280zx pistons,rods.crank and the p42 head and efi from the 280zx motor into my l24 block the reason is in sydney if you increase the cc you need a engineers report and its a small hassle but i like the idea of having the l24 block with the p42 head and efi rob
Last reply by Dan Baldwin, -
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I've looked at a lot of engine compartments on this site (before the upgrade) and noticed a lot of people yanked the servo controller and servo diaphragm and plugged the holes on the balance tube. How's the drivability afterwards? My car is up on stands and waiting on some other work before I can fire it up, so I thought i'd get some opinions here in the meantime. I pulled all the other smog stuff(air pump gear). The hoses were in pretty rough shape and I wasn't about to spend good $ on replacements! No smog checks for my 72 here in TX. I still have the servo parts, just I'd need to get a vacuum tap with a 1/8" NPT base now since I already tapped the hole for my NPT plug…
Last reply by Inf, -
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Well i thought i should write up about what I've been up to with my Z lately. Since the site has been down for a little. I was originally going to install a new camshaft and engine head ontop of the existing block. However after pulling it apart and discovering the lash pads weren't wearing quite right and the camshaft was a bit rough they had filed down the square parts on the cam you can use a shifter to turn it from. For what reason I don't know. I decided I'd pull my P90 engine head off and compare the two. Here is the part some might find interesting. I have 3 motors:- Motor 1(Specs) F54 Block , 72 E88 Head, N42 Valves, Port work, Mild Cam. Pretty sure flat tops…
Last reply by Z Kid, -
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Hey Guys, Good to see that the page is up and running again, just have a few questions in order to better decide the next step of my engine. If anyone knows any of these dimentions it would help alot. Just to note i am running triple 45 Webers on a P90 (soon to be N42). Runner Dia @ head Runner Length Runner FLow COef (theres a hard one) Cam Lobe Separation (in cam degrees) Cam Duration @ .200" (crank degrees) Rocker Arm Ratio (intake and exhaust) Thanks guys
Last reply by Deus Ex, -
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Hi all, I'm still reeling... pardon me. So I just finished my first full tank after the initial approximate 500mile break-in period of my F54 L28 with early E88 and larger N42 valves. On 12 gallons I managed 246miles... Granted 75% of the driving was on the freeway at a constant 70-80mph but NEVER did I expect to be getting slightly over 20MPG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have an O2 sensor plumbed in the exhaust just beyond the header collector and it shows barely a tick over stoichiometric, I've checked the plugs and they look fine too... Wow... It appears to be running just fine, feels plenty more torquey than before - love it! Even more impressive is that my tired matching # L2…
Last reply by kmack, -
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When I bought my Z the PO kindly included the original cylinder head and I took a close look at it for the first time on the weekend (see picture). A question: It this damage the result of detonation/pinging? If so, here are a couple of interesting observations: Firstly, the damage appears only in the chambers of no.1 and no.6 cylinders, not across all six. Secondly, the damage appears to be localized around the exhaust port in each chamber, presumably due to its greater relative heat. Has anyone observed similar? Are Zs susceptible to poor cooling around the no.1 and 6 cyclinders? Is this just a one off?
Last reply by Zedrally, -
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Hey everybody. Ive got an L28 that I'm setting up for high end power. I've got a stage3 cam on the way and some minor mods and i was wondering if i needed to change my spark plug gap to accomodate these new changes with the cam and all. At the moment I have the gap at .040mm and the car seems to run smooth at low rpms but backfires like mad at high rpms and sometimes it lags when i try to accel so should i be running my gap lower say .025 or what? Or if anyone could explain to me the science of gapping I'd be very happy. Thanks everyone.
Last reply by 280zgod, -
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okay, my car's been terribly hard to start recently (72 240z) and i figured it was the carbs (being poorly adjusted). however, this morning (after tampering with my carbs last night) i did some experimenting and i am only running on 4 cylinders (at least when cold) the ones that aren't firing are the #4 and #5 and i'm not sure why. my car's symptoms are, when starting in the morning, it takes a few minutes to get my motor going and when it does it idles very rough around 200 rpm. after trying to get it to idle higher (pulsing the gas) it rises VERY slowly, and if i try to get the revs over abour 1100 rpm it pops and drops back down to 800 (still very rough) once it warms …
Last reply by e_racer1999, -
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The little water outlet on the thermostat housing (the one thats supposed to run through the intake and around the back of the motor to that little y pipe) has pretty much had it. (see picture) Does anyone know where I can find this? I tried several parts stores, which told me to check out some hardware stores, no luck there either. I'm not even sure what type of threads this has. I found a few fittings that had similar diameter tapered threads, but the pitch seemed to be off ever so slightly. How are tapered thread dimensions specified? If I know that, I can probably find something that will work on mcmaster-carr or something when their website is working for me again…
Last reply by Inf,
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