Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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SROP syndrome,,,, Normally when engine is cold (70's f) starting the engine I get up to about 2/3 of the 90psi scale, as it warms up I am around mid point for typical driving. Idle drops down to about 1/8 scale. The other day I noticed the oil pressure never really gets much above the mid point regardless of RPM or temp. Idle pressure seems about the same. A mechanical gauge was used and blipping the throttle would get it up to about 55 psi, idle was about 15psi iirc. Only recent work done was the replacement of the timing cover/timing chain/guides and tensioner. New oil pump gasket (felpro) used in conjunction with the timing cover having to come off. …
Last reply by jonbill, -
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I see in the Black Dragon catalog for the R200 they list the side carrier bearings (2), the front pinion bearing, and the rear pinion bearing. However, they don't list a pilot bearing like they do for the R180. Doesn't the R200 have a pilot bearing? I'd really appreciate it If someone who has done a rebuild on the R200 could verify and list for me exactly which bearings are needed. Also, if I knew exaclty which to order it looks like I could save quite a bit of money through Rock Auto for example instead of buying a rebuild kit. Gary
Last reply by Yarb, -
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I opened a diff I just got with a lot of parts and it has the following stamped markings on the ring gear: 35 X A C 5 - 11 Anyone have a clue as to the ratio?
Last reply by gnosez, -
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I searched but found no clear answers to my question of what parts I need to upgrade my R200 3.90 diff to a CV axle setup on my 280Z. I know that I can get the CV flange adapter from zcardepot to bolt the CV's to the stub axles, but I am getting conflicting info on which CV axles I need. I believe that one side is longer than the other but some parts sites are listing them as universal? Do I need the 280ZX CV's or the 300ZX Turbo axles? The ad below indicates a single CV axle for both sides... http://www.ebay.com/itm/221481941600?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Thoughts?
Last reply by Yarb, -
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You guys using aftermarket EFI, particularly Haltech, what electronic throttle body and electronic pedal are you using. I’m told Nissan used the same throttle body bolt pattern for decades so that is an obvious starting point... im going to use a Haltech Elite 2500 so it makes sense to use it to its fullest potential. im using a stock 280Z intake that has been extrude honed.
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I have long hated my Cannon manifold that came with my triple weber kit. The three drilled holes for the rod ends do not line up, so I only used two for my set up. I ran like this for a while, see below well now I have noticed that the precision driveshaft I bought at Mcmastercarr has started to show more slop than it use to. I am applying a load in the worst possible position as I have it mounted now. I really need that third rod end in the middle to react the loads from the return spring and throttle cable. I have given this much thought. The simplest solution would be to just bend the rod end the few thousands of an inch and then install it. Keep this up until I …
Last reply by Duffman, -
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after replacing the TC cover for the failed TC guide, I put in a new water pump and gasket. I noticed some antifreeze leaking off the bottom of the timing chain cover, a very little but still bothers me. I used the paper gasket (black) that came with the WP and a little bit of gasket stickum just to hold it in place. Bolts torqued to spec. I put in some uv dye and could see the leak seemed to be coming off the bottom of the pump right at the gasket. Know I know leaks can be sneaky so I wiped clean did again and was pretty sure it was just a poor seal. Next up remove the pump clean all remains (pretty easy since no sealant had been used). try again this time with a f…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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I don't want to screw this up. I have a NISSAN OE rear main seal, it comes with little red dots of lubricant already in place on the inner lip. I assume nothing else is required for the inner lip as far as lubrication of the crankshaft bearing surface (no nicks or scratches or grooves are present) The question is do I install it dry on the outside or should I lubricate or add sealant to the OUTSIDE of the seal. I assume dry will make it harder to press into place. I was thinking of using the Permatex anaerobic gasket sealer, its almost like grease, and hardens in the absence of air. That is IF anything should be done on the outside. I tried searching and j…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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Hi, I'm looking for brass synchronizers for my early 4spd. I found one that supposedly fits a 240 through 280 (1st though 4th). Are the synchronizers (1st through 4th) for early 4spd (1970 through mid 71) really the same as those in later transmissions? Can anyone recommend a source?. Thanks in advance!
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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I have a 1972 240Z that I have recently installed a 390 rear end in. The wide ratio 5-speed transmission currently in the car has a white 19 tooth speedo driver in it which causes the speedometer to read about 5 mph too fast at 80 mph. I'm planning to swap in a red 20 tooth speedo driver and am curious if any of you math whizs can give me an idea of how much closer I'll get to the speedometer reading accurately. I realize there are other variables that come into play here, like wheel and tire size, but I'm just trying to get an idea of what to expect once I get my new close ratio 5-speed installed with the red gear. Thoughts? I'm currently running 16" Panasports with 205…
Last reply by Randalla, -
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I am having fuel pump issues on my 72 Z. I have three fuel pump, one old OEM and two new look-a-likes. The two new pumps pumped a few hours then quit. Sit them on the bench a while and they may pump again for a short duration. Anyway, I have three pumps that I don't trust, so I purchased an electric pump (stock carbs). But, I have not installed the electric pump yet because I have not decided how I want to ensure the pump stops when the engine dies. So, I found this: http://www.revolutionelectronics.com/Fuel_Pump.html Has anyone used the above controller. Looks like a good solution and super easy to install. I would mount it behind the radio.
Last reply by David F, -
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decided to start a clean thread. easy stuff remove bell housing and rear tail shaft housing removed shift forks, detent balls and springs snap rings and speedo drive gear and ball that retains it. reverse idler gear. rear counter shaft nut/gear OD gear, needle bearings balk ring. what is giving me problems is the OD sync hub, OD gear bushing. the bushing is not going anywhere. the manual says use a "suitable plate" behind the retainer and press out the main shaft. I am going to have to try and some steel that has a u shape cut out to clear the retainer, I can tap it and us some all rod to attach to the puller on the end …
Last reply by Dave WM,
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