Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,574 topics in this forum
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- 3 replies
- 1.1k views
I was wondering if any body knows where I can get the clutch and brake lines that go to the master cylinders. I need the long hard metal ones that lay against the firewall in the engine bay. I broke mine trying to take them off. Do I need to get them made or does some body make new ones I can go and pick up? Thanks
Last reply by Bambikiller240, -
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ATF in gas? 1 2
by z_boi- 12 replies
- 2.2k views
Hey, is it really safe to put ATF in your gas tank to clean you engine internals. i read this on one of the other threads. does it really work. and how good does it work?
Last reply by frank13, -
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Hi, I am about to purchase my first Z car a 1973 240. The guy has a 74 260 with a good dash and some fair looking fenders, glass, etc. What parts if any will exchange? it was Hunter
Last reply by Hunter21, -
- 19 replies
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In speaking with all my motor head chevy/ford/mopar friends, all the rage in oil is this brand called Royal Purple 5W30. Their website royalpurple.com claims independent dyno test results. What is the choice opinion for oil in our Z cars? Should your oil type vary with a stock set up as opposed to a race prepared engine? Vicky
Last reply by hls30.com, -
I have read several places that the '75 280 came with 150hp. However, the plate under my hood says 170hp. What gives? Which is correct?
Last reply by venom42, -
- 17 replies
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I've got a 78 280Z, stock except for a K&N air filter, and the other day I noticed that premium (91 or 93 octane depending on the gas station) gas is getting to be almost $2 a gallon. So I thought I'd try the mid grade stuff, 89. I had maybe 1.5 gallons of premium left in there and added about 6 gallons of 89. The engine's been running fine and I haven't heard any knocking, but I was wondering... Is it easy to distinguish knocking from the valve and timing chain noise of early Zs? The descriptions I've heard of knocking are a clickety noise on acceleration, which my car has always made. Just want to make sure I'm not doing engine damage to save a couple of bucks.
Last reply by venom42, -
- 7 replies
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I have a 1972 240Z that starts up and seems to run a little shakey.Took the plug wire off the number 1 cylinder and notice no difference in idle. Replaced coil, plugs, conds, wires, points, etc with no diff. Discovered oil pump and drive shaft were out of phase and not lined up properly by indication marks. Aligned then re-installed the oil pump shaft per service manual..car stiil running on 5 cylinders: cannot time engine with timimg light and have to advance to get it to idle smooth. Also notice spitting light amount of liquid out rear exhaust. number one compression is 130 compared to 170 for number 2. The distributor rotor is pointed a little past number one when ma…
Last reply by Bambikiller240, -
- 15 replies
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I just fixed up a 280zx that sat for 10 years. it works beautifully! but the radiator needs to be replaced according to my mechanic. he also mentioned that these cars tend to overheat too much. Would a new radiator fix my overheating problem, or do I need something else? If I haven't explained enough to help you out, please mention so.
Last reply by Bambikiller240, -
- 10 replies
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This is my first Z car and it's a 1976 280Z auto (aka Slow) with A/C. What kind of performance mods are out there for this car short of swapping the tranny? Just looking for a starting point that others have been too. This will be a street driven car only for the spring and summer months, so power and speed is the goal. Thanks Bill
Last reply by v12horse, -
- 5 replies
- 5.5k views
I was adjusting my valves today for the first time (cold initially so I can get it down, then warm later). Adjusting the exhaust valves was easy. The problem I ran into was with the intake valves. On most(all except maybe 2) of them, the adjustment nut was already so close to the lock nut that even when I turned it in the correct direction until it would turn no more, the clearance was still too small by 4-6 thousanths. This head is original and still has the bronze(?) valve seats as far as I know. I've been told they get 'beaten' into the head after many miles, especially without leaded fuel, could this be related to my problem? On a related note, I ran a dry compression…
Last reply by Ed, -
- 0 replies
- 1.2k views
What modifs can one (inexpensively) do to improve the torque on a standard 280ZX engine ? BMW throttle body ? Has anyone tried using an LD crank to get 3 or 3.1 litres in a ZX ? If one touches anything, can the standard injection cope with increased demands ? If not, what are the alternatives ? I suspect it can't but can one replace the injection system with a more modern one ? Thanks ps Is it a real gain to replace the variable assistance re-circulating ball steering system with the rack and pinion one ?
Last reply by Sean Dezart, -
- 3 replies
- 1.5k views
I need to face the facts. I just turned 15 and i make 5.90/h. What kind of mods should i do that will give me a bit more hp, yet they wont cost me an arm and a leg?
Last reply by ZmeFly,
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