Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
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I've searched and found conflicting info about using an earlier intake manifold vs a turbo manifold for my turbo engine build. I have an F54 block, P90 head and will use forged pistons, hybrid turbo, wastegate, boost controller, new engine mgmt system, etc., with target specs of 300 RWHP. The earlier intake manifolds had a lot less junk on them and will be easier to clean up. Which is best for my application? Thanks for your input..mayolives
Last reply by ZmeFly, -
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Can anyone give me a rundown on the procedure of droping a 350 into a 280? Just a brief note is great. I have bought a 280 with possible injector/motor problems and I have really nice 350 in my beat up truck .. so anyway ..you get the picture. Thanks ..Bruce
Last reply by D-Webster, -
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I'm in the middle of adjusting my valves at the moment. I'm doing them cold as this is the first time for me. So far I've found that all the exhaust valves have had a much larger clearance than .25mm and all the inlet valves have been very tight. Now I've just come to the inlet valve on number 3 and I simply can't get it with in spec. The largest I can get the gap before the stud doesn't screw down anymore is less than 0.05mm when it should be 0.20mm. There is a gap there now at least. So any ideas why all the exhaust valves are loose and the inlet tight. Also, is it a big concern that I can't get inlet no. 3 in spec? If all goes to plan I'll only be running this motor f…
Last reply by Murph, -
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I'm going to be pulling the head on the '73 240Z this weekend to see where the water leak is. The big question; what am I going to be looking for? How will I know if it's a leaking gasket or a problem with the head or... heaven forbid... something with the block itself?
Last reply by panchovisa, -
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First question: are there any parts on the 810's L24E engine that i might want to put on my '77 Z's L28 with bad EFI and a ticking lifter (like EFI parts, better manafolds, better sensors, computer, head, fuel pump, etc)... otherwise, how much could i sell this engine for intact, considering it has less than 6000 miles on it since it got rebuilt (new cam, head redone, new injectors, new bearings, oil pump, rods, rings, checked the crank to be within spec, new alternator, etc) second set of questions: what am i going to need to convert this to diesel... im assuming the diesel fuel pump (the in tank one), the starter, im going to need to swap flywheels (unless one is seve…
Last reply by sblake01, -
I found a completely exhaust setup for sale for a good price, but it for square ports. I was wondering if it would bolt up to my round ports wit no problems, or would i have leaks?
Last reply by z_boi, -
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Here's the story: Original 2 row radiator sprung a leak where the core attaches to the upper tank, so I bought a 3 row unit from MSA, as well as a new water pump(for good measure), 160 degree thermostat, and some new radiator hoses. The inside of the block and head have a lot of hard deposits in the water passages. I am thinking these are just deposits from using crappy water/coolant in the past since they look like calcium deposits that you sometimes find in old water pipes. Now to my question: How can I clear out some or most of these deposits? There isn't a radiator or water pump on the car right now, but the old water pump seemed to have blades in perfect condition(s…
Last reply by CNIXZGO, -
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I've been looking all over the web for the past week for a write-up on how to swap an L28ET into a 240z. I know the swap is not uncommon, so perhaps I'm missing something? If anyone has a link to a post, or pictures, or document, please share it with me. I'm hoping to find a list of exactly what is needed and how to install it. I'll be doing so with the help of a Nissan Master Tech, but still, I want to make sure it's done right. Thanks in advance.
Last reply by gema, -
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I picked up my block from the machine shop. They only needed to hone it out .002. I bought total seal rings, the ring gap range for ea cyl is either .027 or .029. According to the book, my ring gap should be .014, total seal .014-.020. I was hoping that I would need to file the rings to the desired gap measurement. The final bore is 3.388, stock is 3.386 The total seal rings I bought, the 2nd ring is the gapless. The top ring is conventional. Any ideas, is this normal or should I call and get different rings? This was a junk yard motor with unknown mileage and i just wanted to do a stock rebuild. btw, Nissan standard rings for the turbo are NLA. thank you
Last reply by Darrel, -
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I've lined up myself a 280ZX L28 along with all the loom and ECU for AU$150. Only catch being the thing hasn't been run in about two years, so I was thinking of pulling it down and giving it a basic freshen up. I've been recommended I replace the big end bearings and gaskets. Anything else that should get done while I am at it, keeping in mind that I'm on a tight budget at the moment?
Last reply by san_maru_zed, -
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What the heck is causing oil to build up and come out of my spark plug holes? When I take the plugs out they are soaked in oil, cyl 1 is fine and doesnt ooz oil and read 130psi, cyl 2 was 150 psi, all others were around 120-130. At first I thought the engine was shot and that the piston rings were screwed, but after the compression check I guess its comming from the head somehow. Was wondering what this could be?
Last reply by Phred, -
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Hey all, I just got my first Z car over the last few days, a '74 260. Surfing the 'net for the past few weeks, I always saw the horsepower figure for the 260 as "139hp". However, on my engine compartment plaque it says "162hp". In the Haynes manual, it says something like 165hp, I think. What's with the discrepancies? Thanks, Ayan
Last reply by hls30.com,
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