Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,574 topics in this forum
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Hello, I’ve been looking around and can’t seem to find the answer, I’m looking for the right size plug/caps of the intake manifold for smog Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Selling my 78' 280z L28 engine, has good compression on all cylinders, has new spark plugs (NGK) , spark plug wires, new coil ignition (about 2 years old) engine turns on does need new fuel injectors but that's about it. I Live in San Diego area you can come check it out before I take it out and also you can do a compression test if you'd like I have no problems also selling Transmission and radiator and have some interior panels LOCAL PICKUP sorry wont ship you can text me at 619-598-4110
Last reply by Erick, -
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I Removed the 8 12mm bolts from the tail housing, I also removed the little pin with the c clip. What do I have to do next to separate the tail section? The striker arm now moves out about an inch or 2 inches. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by AZDatsun, -
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I have had a plan to swap out the non-original motor in my car with the original, correct motor at some point and decided it was time to do it. I have been very happy with how the motor has been running, just want the number correct motor in it. First little problem I found was a broken cam oiler tube. This is very common and as I had checked the valve settings this spring and saw no problem then it is a fairly new problem. I have another oiler to replace it. The next problem was a bit disappointing. It seems I have developed a crack in my E30 non-emission exhaust manifold. The second photo shows the pattern of the exhaust on the back side of the heat shield. Now…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I posted these links on the hybrid z site as well. Just some videos showing some pretty basic things that I haven't seen before in videos. Thought it might help a few people out. Might also raise some good questions and feed back... I'm not an expert here by any stretch, just want to learn and share. joe in SE WI lash pad wipe ....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TQSf2TinWc4&t=6s finding TDC on short block ....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SvcXhv-HZ_0&t=2s finding TDC after head installed ....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09AJpZ9z0EY&t=10s finding intake cam lobe center, degreeing cam ....https://www.y…
Last reply by joem64, -
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Trying to do some research during my tear down. Have gotten a lot of info here, but have a few questions; I have a 73 Z with auto trans but will be changing to manual on the rebuild. I have a spare engine and trans from a 72 Z. I'll be using that trans. I need to clarify some of the wiring. On the auto there are two wires on the left side of the trans (black wires). From what I can tell these are for the kick down solenoid and will not be needed on the manual trans. On the right side of the auto are the four wires , 2 for the inhibitor switch and 2 for the back up lights. I know the inhibitor wires need to be connected together so the car will start with the manual…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 8 followers
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So I'm out driving around today, just minding my own business... All of a sudden, out of the blue, it starts running exceptionally poorly. Somehow (still not sure how), I managed to limp it about five miles home. Get home and start the troubleshooting. It's completely missing on the rear three cylinders and front firing out the intake like the timing is way off. So, what can cause a complete miss on the rear three cylinders and run like turds on the others? ECU? Nope. That's not it. Dropping resistor? Nope, not it either. Bunch of lash pads fly out? Nope. "When you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth.…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Picked up this questionable 280 Z project. Not sure what suspension setup this is. I have new Nissan shafts that are for a 300 ZX, so I’m thinking that is what the differential is. What kind of suspension does it have. Was it a kit you could buy 10 years ago?
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
- 3 followers
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I need to replace the shifter bushing in my early 240Z, manufactured 8/70. I know that the very early Zs were different from the slightly later models. I suspect I have an early transmission, but I'll confirm that later. What I am particularly interested in is the gaining access to the bushings. Is it necessary to remove the center console or can they be access from beneath the car? I think of taking out the console to be a real pain, so if I can avoid it, so much the better. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
Last reply by gundee, -
- 3 followers
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I decided to mess with my old engine parts, and put them back together for easier storage. It's an N42/N42 combination, that ran well, but had leaky valve seals and a coolant leak from the back of the head gasket. After I took the head off I used a long straight level and measured .007" of upward bow in the center of the head. By the FSM, that's out of spec. (.004" maximum) and the bottom should be reground to under .002" warpage. I set the head on the block and rechecked flatness, measuring the gap in the middle. I got .006" this time, which makes sense since the contact points are closer together because my front cover is lower than the deck. The head was only …
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 2 followers
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the head has between .003 and .0025 gap in the middle (presuming the straight edge is flat). I was thinking of bolting to a block with .001 spacers on the ends, then torqueing down. Perhaps figure a way to heat to say 300f, bake it for a few hours and check again.
Last reply by David F, -
- 4 followers
- 30 replies
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Recently on my '74 near bone stock 260z I discovered a slight pinging noise from near cylinder 5 or 6. Opened the valve cover and found that the oil sprayer had recently been through some trauma and one of the major lines was bent and all 4 section's joints had failed, so I'm sure it wasn't even spraying oil properly anymore and the obvious worry is still there that a joint will give out entirely and I'll find out quickly how well a cylinder head can stand up to flying metal. Anyway, my question is, does anyone know of fabricating their own sprayer because all the ones online are 150+ dollars which is a bit much. Or should I start looking at internally drilled aftermar…
Last reply by Captain Obvious,
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