Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,574 topics in this forum
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I would like some advice on how to install the new roll pin into the speedometer cog housing. I pulled the old pin out with pliers and vice grips, but that method "boogerd up" the pin pretty badly. The new roll pin (which is the correct Nissan replacement part) seems slightly larger in diameter than the hole in the housing. I'm guessing this is the way it is designed to be. Because the housing is oddly shaped and made from soft metal (aluminum?) I'm hesitant to clamp it too tightly in a vice. So, practically speaking, what is the easiest way to drive this new pin into the housing without damaging the pin or the housing?
Last reply by ea6driver, -
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- 2 followers
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I have a problem with my 260z. It will start up without too much trouble. Once I get it started it seems to run fine. After a couple of minutes running, it with start to sputter out on me, like it's running out of gas. Anybody have any ideas?
Last reply by Reptoid Overlords, -
- 3 followers
- 13 replies
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Could someone that has, or is knowledgeable about the Ron Tyler differential mount look at the dimensions of the mount on the listed URL and verify that it is valid for a Z application with an L28 engine/R200 differential? The mount was originally designed for a Chevy V8 conversion so I'm concerned that it might alter the driveshaft angle and put stress on the universal joint. I'm planning on building one using Alteredz.com as a guide. I'm assuming that RT has not patented his design. http://alteredz.com/drivelinemods.htm
Last reply by wheee!, -
- 5 followers
- 15 replies
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I haven’t been able to find a list of parts needed for this HP goal. My real goal is 250-300 using an L28 without a turbo. But if this isn’t plausible in my case I’ll do what everyone else is doing. Get an L28et. My question/request for anyone looking at this is to supply me with a list of parts needed for this goal and if it’s even possible to get to 250hp cheaply
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
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I have a 260 with 188K original miles and this winter I am going to rebuild the motor. My original thought is to keep the E88 head but stick the larger intake valves in it. Then mate this to either my 260 block that has been bored out (keeping the car matching numbers) or use a 280 block with flat top pistons. So I have 2 questions: 1. Has anybody bored out a 260 block, is it the same as boring out a 240 block, how much can I get away with? 2. If I use a 280 block with my E88 head is there anything I should look for, I guess my concern is with oil and water passages. I know my E88 has a spray bar and wasn't sure about how that would work with the later …
Last reply by Diseazd, -
- 1 follower
- 6 replies
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Hello, this is my first topic and I would like some help on my current project. I recently bought a 71’ 240z and I am planning on engine swapping an L28 w/ 4 speed that I also plan to turbo in the near future. I have a couple questions. 1. What driveshaft would I use for this conversion. Would I use a 240z driveshaft or should I use the 280z driveshaft? (I’m not sure if my Z is series 1 or 2 at the moment) 2. When turbo charging an NA L28 what components should I upgrade and what additional parts do I NEED. I’m on a tight budget so don’t tell me I need the most expensive parts. (Have a $1500-$2000 budget for the engine)
Last reply by 240zSean, -
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- 27 replies
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Ok, I am officially stumped on this one and need some help. Car 75 Calif 280z with only 80 miles on a rebuild 14 yeas ago. I know it's along story . Problem: 1-I have a small back fire thru the AFM only some times when I crack the throttle. 2- cylinders 1,2,3 have a small drop out(loss of spark). 4,5,6 look very good using Colortune. What was checked: 1. Originally the car would not start. Fuel pump was bad and replaced. Idle pressure 32psi and pump head pressure is 40. 2. Checked pressure regulator and not leaking at vacuum port. 3. Plugs replaced as they looked very dark. 4. Vacuum is 17mmhg…
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
- 3 followers
- 14 replies
- 3.9k views
Yesterday I put my head on the block. The head gasket that I purchased from MSA didn’t have any notes about whether or not to use sealer, and after researching (briefly) online I seemed to find conflicting answers between those who apply head gaskets dry and those who use sealer. So, figuring it couldn’t hurt, I squeezed out some Permatex Non Hardening (no. 2) sealer onto both sides of my head gasket. Since then, I’ve been wondering if I screwed up by using this sealer on the head gasket in the first place or by applying too much. Here’s an image of how much I applied to the block side of the gasket. Is there a chance that this could cause issues by blocking oil p…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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- 11 replies
- 961 views
Hi All, 73 240Z with L28 transplant. Recently purchase a clutch pedal kit from a supplier (new clutch master, slave and rubber line). Also replaced the stainless line from the master to the rubber line. Using DOT 3 brake fluid in the master. Car shifts smoothly until 30 -45 mins driving. Once car is at temp, loose engagement from the slave (assume it's the slave and not the clutch). I can engage forward gears with a clunk 1st -4th, but will not shift into reverse (grind). 73 clutch slave, no spring from the bearing lever to the slave, single pedal adjustment on the master shaft to the pedal. First time it happened bleed the system, issue gone, shifting smoothl…
Last reply by w3wilkes, -
- 3 followers
- 5 replies
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Just picked up a 8/1970 build 240Z to join my 1973. Plan on doing a full period correct restoration over the next few years with my son. Car came with a full set of spares from a 1971 240Z that was written off so I can start reconditioning parts and swapping them around to prepare for restoration. Trying to work out the correct wire hose clamps for a 8/70 build, chassis number 08802. Do they have hex heads or Phillips screw heads. Also what finish are they, zinc or gold? There also seems to be a style that has curved tensioner screw plate rather than the flat one. Also trying to find the correct cut pile carpet in black, does anyone know of a supplier.…
Last reply by SpeedRoo, -
Half shaft hell 1 2
by Reinier- 3 followers
- 18 replies
- 2.2k views
Hi guys, I'm rebuilding my whole suspension and replacing all bushings, ball joints and u-joints. So while I was working on my half shafts I figured I would take them apart and clean and re-grease everything. Boy do I regret that decision because I've spent hours trying trying to slide them back together with all the ball bearings and plastic spacers in place. Whatever I do they always get stuck and they won't slide in further like some ball bearings are a bit oversized or tolerances are a bit off. I've tried everything. Slow, fast, adding the bearings afterwards from the other side. Nothing works ;( The closest I came was when I tried holding the bearings …
Last reply by jonathanrussell, -
- 2 followers
- 4 replies
- 998 views
Slowly proceeding with restoring the thermostat housing/water outlet assembly. Lots of BLASTER and quite a bit of patience got all the sensors and fittings removed and the outlet separated from the thermostat housing. My question is on the sending unit with the single terminal stud. All of the ones I am locating do not have any threads, unlike the threaded version that was removed. Is that sending unit pressed into the nut or am I looking up the wrong part? The thermo timer seems to be the most expensive of the 3 sensors. Any recommendations or do I just bite the bullet and order a new one along with the cold start valve. The housings are now all cleaned, primed, a…
Last reply by siteunseen,
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