Engine & Drivetrain
Post messages here about engine mechanics, exhaust, intake, etc. Anything to do with the engine system as a whole.
5,574 topics in this forum
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Anyone know if the manifold heat shield on a 280 Z is removable without having to pull the engine...if it is please tell me how. Bobby
Last reply by seehunt, -
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I am restoring a 72 240. The car is very tired, so I plan on pulling the engine, and going through it. The original engine output is not enough for me, however I do want to be able to drive the car on the street with the A/C on when finished. I picked up some parts for the rebuild/ upgrade already. I have a new cam, and rockers. I think the cam is 260 degrees duration. I don't remember the lift offhand, but fairly mild. I picked an electronic distributer ( the one with the internal electronics from a later model Z), headers, and I plan on 2, or 2 1/2" exhaust ( sugestions?). I will send the original carbs to z therapy for a total rebuild, again any ideas on carb setup wou…
Last reply by griggs57, -
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Hi people. What should be the water temp for a 300 HP 280Z race engine. Will it or should it run much higher than stock? Is the optimum stock temp 180 - 190? Thanks C
Last reply by Gav240z, -
N42 condition
by Inf- 5 replies
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I may be buying an N42 that is in need of a rebuild. The owner sent some pics along with an explanation of what went wrong before he replaced it. Maybe you guys could give me some advice. I was a little concerned by looking at the photos since it looks like the casting is deformed around the water passages. I'm no expert and have really never looked at the business side of a cylinder head, but I am sure many of you know your way around. Here is the explanation I got from the seller :
Last reply by Inf, -
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ok for starters i just brought the car 2 months ago. i have noticed that i have an oil leak. i do not know exactly where it is coming from. one guess is the gasket is leaking, another one is that it is burning the oil. it was rebuilt once at 117,000 it now has 206,000. so whould it be worth rebuilding or should i look at buying a new motor for it???
Last reply by beandip, -
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Well, I just got back from having my car dynoed. Figures came back about what I was expecting for well used engine. 200k+ miles, a few bad valve seals, rings on their way out, etc. Put it this way, during a full day of autocrossing I use a little more than a quart of oil! Anyway, I had the air/fuel mixture tested at the sametime. In the meat of my power, the ratio is running rich. Perfect stachiometry (sp?) should be about 14.1. I was told I should be running mid to high 13's running in the power. I'm running low to mid 11's. Basically I'm rich throughout the powerband. I leaned the mixture half a turn on the SU's for the second run, which helped down low, but it…
Last reply by kmack, -
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I need to replace all of the rubber hoses - well all of the rubber period. What is the best way to oreder these parts. I can order them one at a time. I thought if someone sold a kit, it would be a lot easier. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks!
Last reply by beandip, -
so here's a question...i know that an '82 zx does not come with turbo...or at least not mine. so i would like to know is there a turbo out there that i can put on it???
Last reply by thefastestz, -
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FOR SALE: SIX OF NISSAN PART NUMBER 12033-30W10. Originally manufactured for use inside Datsun/Nissan Z24 engines. Retail price is $300.60 through your local Nissan dealership. ASKING $150 O.B.O. FOR SALE: ONE OF NISSAN PART NUMBER 12033-13G10. Originally manufactured for use inside Datsun/Nissan Z24 engines. This is a four-cylinder engine ring set (top, bottom, and oil). Retail price is $99.76 through your local Nissan dealership. ASKING $50 O.B.O. These parts are new and stored inside their factory packages. Pictures available upon request.
Last reply by thedvlsh1, -
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While doing some cleaning on my 75 280 today i noticed that the exhaust pipe just below the firewall a cover over it, it has holes in it and is bolted on, I assume it might be a heat barrier but don't know for sure, it's very loose and moves around easily, the bolts are probably frozen on. Can anyone tell me what the purpose of it is and the consequences of removing it. Thanks. Bobby Hunter
Last reply by seehunt, -
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I am looking for some insight on dark ciolored exhaust. I understand it can be that the car is burning oil due to a need for new valve rings (I believe) is that the only thing that can cause it or could it be something else. Let me fill you in on my car which may help with the advice. I found my car on a ranch beneath a car port this last winter. It is a a 1971 with the original engine which has 131,000 miles on it. It was last driven in 1987 when it started sitting in a garage when the owner bought a new car. It was moved to the ranch I found it on (my neighbor's) about 5 years ago or so. I brought it home and with little effort got it running. The choke was froze…
Last reply by 26th-Z, -
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Hi All, I am looking into buying another Z on Saturday. This one is an early 71 with a stock L24. The owner did a compression test which showed these results: From back to front: 135, 150, 140,145, 150, 150. Of course, I plan to do my own test to confirm. I looked all through my Haynes and FSM and could not seem to find the stats on minimum acceptable compression. I know you want compression in each of the holes to be within 10% of each other. Five out of six look good. Is the 135 at or below the minimum, and do you think that is something to be concerned with? Looking forward to your opinions. TIA, Marty
Last reply by carguyinok,
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